New To Reloading - Research Phase

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henry-b

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Messages
36
Location
TN
Hello
I might 'bite the bullet' and start reloading. I'd probably buy the whole setup new, unless I find what I want used. I'd relaod 44mag mainly at first. Not sure but I'd probably be loading hot rather than soft loads, mainly for long-distance plinking. Not sure if I'd be doing that many I'd need an auto...maybe 100 at a time ? Plus, I'm not sure if I'd get interupted so as to forget what I was doing, so maybe I'd be better off with a manual type. Oh, and I don't care what the brass -looks- like, so maybe I don't need a tumbler ?
Any suggestion wrt brand ?
 

grobin

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Messages
846
I recently got back into reloading after a long abscense. I got a Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Single Stage Press Kit on sale. It and the Lee are the cheapest complete kits and I find the Lee Manual (50th) the most useful,although I supplement it with the Hornady Kindle one as well. I've mostly reloaded 10mms for my Glock 40. I'm planning on reloading more 6.5 Creedmore for precision rifle. I don't use the powder scale. I have an Ohaus that's much more accurate and faster. I'm fussy and decap/inspect the fired cases then clean them in an ultrasonic cleaner. I don't care about the outside but the inside needs to be clean. The auto primer feed is a nice to have but unless you are reloading more than a hundred pretty pricey. I've been using a Hornady manual primer as it's faster than the press.
 

daveg.inkc

Hunter
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Nov 14, 2015
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Kansas City, MO
I use a Lyman T-Mag press. 6 station. I use the Lee Factory crimp die, so you can mount your powder drop, seat, and crimp die. It is a manual turret. Hornady- Pacific makes excellent everything! Leader in bullets. I just bought a RCBS priming tool. Only thing with it, you have to use RCBS shell holders. Due to radius on bottom I.D. Its a great pastime. And think hard about a tumbler. I clean my brass first thing.
 

daveg.inkc

Hunter
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daveg.inkc said:
I use a Lyman T-Mag press. 6 station. I use the Lee Factory crimp die, so you can mount your powder drop, seat, and crimp die. It is a manual turret. Hornady- Pacific makes excellent everything! Leader in bullets. I just bought a RCBS priming tool. Only thing with it, you have to use RCBS shell holders. Due to radius on bottom I.D. Its a great pastime. And think hard about a tumbler. I clean my brass first thing.
And order you a 7/8" -14 tap. To chase die threads on press.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
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Lake Lure NC USA
I've been reloading since the late 1970's.
I still have equipment from those days. Why? I bought quality & they will outlast me.
A single-stage press will fit the needs you described. I still have 2 of them on my bench, along with a few progressives. BUT,,, I use my progressives for volume due to competition. 100 rounds at a time,, no problem on a single-stage.
RCBS, Lyman & Hornady single stage presses will outlast you & your grandkids if taken care of. A press can easily be bought used & save some money. (That way you can spend the savings on other reloading stuff.) The same with a few other items,,, such as dies, shell holders, & even scales.
But the very first thing you need to invest in is a couple of good reloading manuals. Hornady, Lyman, Speer, Nosler, are all very good. GET MORE THAN ONE MANUAL!!!!! You will find them very useful.
Then study the manuals!
Case cleaning,,, it should be done. Why? Well, dirty cases can wear the dies. A used press can be bought & the savings can be used to add a tumbler. Do it!
Loading hot. Ammo should be ACCURATE first,, no matter the power level. In reloading,,, start low & work up loads to find accuracy,, ESPECIALLY if long range shooting is your goal. Horsepower does nothing if you can't hit anything.
Here's what I suggest you try.
Manuals.
A single-stage press.
A set of dies (Carbide of 44 mag) with the proper shell holder.
Scales.
Loading block.
A tumbler.
A powder thrower.
A priming system. (Can be press mounted, or hand type.)
Calipers.
Here is the process;
Step one, clean the cases, inspecting them as you handle them. Discard any split ones.
Step two, set up the resizing die/decapping die & do 50 cases. (Keep inspecting the cases for defects.)
Step three, expand the neck in the second die,, after adjusting them properly. Keep inspecting the cases. And, if you have a press mounted priming system, prime as you expand.
If not; Step four is priming the cases.
Step five, set up the powder thrower & scales, at a starting load, NOT a maximum load.
Step six, load 6-12 rounds, with powder.
Step Seven, using the 3rd die, set the bullet in these test rounds. Depending upon your preference, you can crimp at the same time or do it in a separate step. If separate, crimp after seating the bullets.
Measure for OAL.
Test fire for accuracy.

Once you find an accurate load, then you can load more at a time & lock in your set-up.

When using my single-stage presses,, I handle 50 cases at a time due to the loading blocks usually have holes for 50. Now, you can do more at a time,,, such as re-sizing & decapping until you have all the cases done. You can expand the necks all at one time too. But once I begin to add components such as primers & powder, I do no more than 50 at a time.

I hope this helps a little.
 

mikld

Blackhawk
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
947
Location
Oregon
Before you buy any equipment, get a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. It will tell you how to reload, explain components and the equipment needed. After you read the ABCs and before you actually start stuffing brass, get a couple (3) reloading manuals. The Lyman 50th is a very good "generic" manual and I'd recommend a Hornady manual, as a minimum.

One way to start a "discussion" about equipment is to ask some reloaders "what's best?". I'd say you should research and read reviews (not opinions on a forum) of the equipment you choose. While the forum members are just being helpful, 90% are what the poster has chosen and not side by side comparisons. Not an all bad thing, just be aware.

Start slow! When starting reloading a cartridge, especially a Magnum, don't think maximmn, "hot" loads. Always start low, preferaby with listed starting loads. Just work up to what you're looking for, slowly and safely. BTDT. I reloaded my first 44 Magnums in '88 and had a bad case of "Magnumitis" and quickly started loading full magnum level loads. I continued to load hot until I had to send my 629 back to the factory for repairs. I "grew up" and began loading sane loads and have reloaded everything from 123 gr. balls to 310 gr, T-Rex killers and I enjoy shooting my magnums (5) much, much more. My Dan Wesson 44H is much more enjoyable to shoot with upper loads and it's my 100 yard gun....

Go slow. Double check everything. And most important, have fun...
 

Clark

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
87
Location
Duluth, MN
mikld said:
One way to start a "discussion" about equipment is to ask some reloaders "what's best?". I'd say you should research and read reviews (not opinions on a forum) of the equipment you choose. While the forum members are just being helpful, 90% are what the poster has chosen and not side by side comparisons. Not an all bad thing, just be aware.

That's a very good perspective of how to view all this data. So let me chime in with some more!

I have a situation somewhat similar to yours but mainly caused by an aversion to having shells partially through the reloading process and having to come back to them later. Single stage presses, if you want to get any volume out of them, have to be used in a batch process. So all shells go through one process before moving onto the next. This means you could have shells properly resized, primed and charged with powder sitting on your bench waiting for you. Since I really don't like that situation (chances are about 100%, conservatively, that I would knock some or all of them over) I went with a Lee Turret. It occupies the no-man's land between single stage presses and progressives. It's considerably faster than a single-stage, 120 rounds/hour, but slower than a progressive. It can also be used like a single-stage. For me it was the best choice because I can quickly finish a round, leave everything set and ready to go and not have to search through the evidence on my bench to resume reloading.

Clark
 

Jimbo357mag

Hawkeye
Joined
Feb 22, 2007
Messages
10,350
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So. Florida
I would suggest a single-stage press kit from Lee, RCBS or Hornady with your dies to get started. Lee dies are cheaper and seem to work fine for me. I would also suggest a tumbler and calipers. Go slow, be careful and ask questions here if you have any problems/thoughts to discuss. :D
 

mikld

Blackhawk
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
947
Location
Oregon
As Clark mentioned, batch loading works quite well for a newer reloader. I still batch load (after my time with a Lee Loader in '69) and many, many times I'll go through the process up until charging. Charging and seating are done last, uninterrupted. Most of the other steps can be done then a break taken and work resumed later, but charging should be done, start to finish without leaving the bench. FWIW I have several hundred of assorted, primed and ready brass just waiting for a load and bullets (for my 11 calibers I reload)...
 

grobin

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Messages
846
I agree with most of the advice. But skip the dedicated loading only books. The Hornady Kindle 9th ed. and the Lyman 50th ed. have excellent descriptions of the loading process. For quantities of 50-200 a single stage press is fine. The turret press is a bit faster so works for a 100-~300. The progressives like the Dillion (some models) can be used for full production of a 1000 up! Don't put a lot of weight on gear recommendations, but read reviews. I recommend the single stage and kits on bang for the buck. Yes the kits will likely give you some thing(s) that you don't use. A friend reloads for plinking and practice-he has never used the powder trickler-the powder measure is plenty good enough. But most of the kits give a significant discount over buying the parts separately.
 

daveg.inkc

Hunter
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Kansas City, MO
So much good advice here. And years of experience on reloading. It's like many tasks and jobs. A few different ways to get same, end result. And on reloading manuals, you can not have too much information. I have at least 30 different books. 1953 is my earliest. Each, old book will have something new I pick up reading. Read up on Elmer Keith. " Hell, I Was There!" is hard to put down!
 

henry-b

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Messages
36
Location
TN
Thx...I'm tending towards a single-stage, as I'd like to be able to do one task on 50-100, then leave them until another day, and another stage or task.

What about brand ? That may be my next decision. What about a Dillon single stage ?
 

contender

Ruger Guru
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Dillon is top notch. I own 4 of their progressive presses & they have a NO BS warranty.
RCBS is also an excellent press. Lyman & Hornady also are very, very good.

One thing to consider is the ease of interchangeability of manufacturer parts. Example; A RCBS press, a set of Redding dies, a Lyman shell holder. Then you want to switch to a Hornady set of dies, with a RCBS shell holder.
It will be just fine with a standard RCBS press.
The Hornady L-N-L system is good, but requires extra bushings for each die.

The Dillon, BL 550 is not exactly a single stage press. It's the closest they currently offer, and it can be "upgraded" to a progressive. It uses a toolhead to hold all the dies at one time, and you manually rotate the shellplate to each station.

If good quality is your desire, then the RCBS Rockchucker, may be your best option. Redding, Lyman & I believe Hornady offer a top of the line single-stage as well.
 

grobin

Blackhawk
Joined
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Messages
846
henry-b
I will not recommend anything I haven't used. The only Dillion single stage I know of was for large magnums and for a 50BMG ran the club that has it >$1000. The only Dillion I have used was years ago and for high volume reloading (~10,000/hr) it was the only game in town. It was a major cost for a club and the members had to buy their own dies to use it. If you don't need 1,000/hr or more don't waste your time on Dillion!!

I've used Lee, Lyman, Hornady, and RCBS as well as Dillion. Currently I have the Hornady as it got good reviews and was on a deep discount sale. I got the kit but the scale is worthless-to be fair most of them are adequate at best. If your powder charge is critical then get an Ohaus scientific scale; if not then just use the powder measure.

Narrow down the press type, single stage, turret or progressive, based on the number of rounds you expect to reload at a sitting. You can do batches but I agree that powder charge should be followed by bullet seating without a lot of time between.

Once you have decided on the press type then read reviews of the company's presses. Check the kit prices against the cost of the included compoinents, if they are cheaper then go with the kit!I

Depend on several reviews (don't forget Amazon and the other online vendors)!

PS don't skimp on dies!. I got the Redding carbide set (~$100) and don't regret the money. 44 mag dies are a lot cheaper than 10mm.
 

Johnnu2

Hunter
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I tend to stay away from 'the latest/greatest trendy'stuff. I'm old, and cynical to boot. I've been using an RCBS JR. (yeah a Jr) since the early 1970's and continue to use it exclusively to this day. It has been able to reload the dozens of pistol AND rifle calibers I've owned. I got a Lyman turret press for free and am tempted to use it but the RCBS Jr. forces me to go slow and shoot less .... yeah, I'm CHEAP too :)).... p.s. I still learned stuff from all the above good advice.......
AND, I certainly believe 'to each his own'; it's an important to be happy with what you have....
J
 

daveg.inkc

Hunter
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I started, 1979, with the Lee Hand Load. Red box and wooden mallet. Hand me down from Brother. .270 and .357. I immediately killed deer with both. 4064 and Herco powders is what I used. Then a friend sold me his Lyman T-Mag. It is a good press. Of course, Lyman and Ideal is one of the oldest companies. My oldest manual is Lyman-Ideal. 1953.
 

BucolicBuffalo

Single-Sixer
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Nov 23, 2014
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261
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Land of Lincoln, not Chicago
I think by now it's clear that just about any press and any manufacturer of dies will do what you want to do. You can spend little, or a lot.

If I was to spend more on any one item, it would be a good dial caliper. I prefer dial to digital. Batteries are not always going dead in a dial. A good quality caliper will not flex like the standard versions marketed to reloaders. As long as you are aware of that, you can do good work with the less expensive tools. I own a Brown & Sharpe. Quality measuring tools can be rebuilt, and calibrated.

Another vote for the Lyman reloading manuals. They contain more cast lead loads than most. And I just took possession of the new Western Powders Handload Guide. Lots of useful information and a great many rounds I never heard of listed. I give it a thumbs up also. I have a shelf of Hornady, and others.
 

henry-b

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Messages
36
Location
TN
Ok so it seems I don't need a Dillon. The rest seem to be about the same...what I'll reload mostly (95%) is 44mag. Later some 357mag, then some oddball stuff like 375H&H, 458WM, 7.5x55 Swiss...

So it seems the powder and seating should be all done at one sitting...ok. I may only do 100 at a time anyways.

So I'll need an Ohaus scale, as I want to do more 200yd 44m shooting and i want them all the same.

Why would I need calipers for revolver ammo ?

Also, can one mix powders and get a hybrid ?
 

daveg.inkc

Hunter
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No,,,Absolutely No Mixing! Of powders. Brown and Sharpe are about the best tools. You need to check brass length, over all length. Calipers, 0-1 micrometer are a must have. Starrett tools are very good, also. On your 200 yd .44 M. Don't forget AA #9. And. IMR 4227
 

contender

Ruger Guru
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NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT MIX POWDERS!!!!!!!!!!!!

It used to be done, when selections were limited. And as such, many guns were blown up. Now, with well over 100 powder choices available, along with the detailed test data the companies now use to make sure the powders are safe if used as intended,, no mixing is needed.

Calipers.
You want to use a good set to set the OAL to match your gun & load. Once you get your proper length, and adjust your dies & lock them in, you won't need them as much.
And if you are setting stuff up, you want to use "uniform" brass to get good set up, and accuracy.
 
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