new SP101 forcing cone question/ issue

infantryman

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
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152
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Virginia
I have a SP101 2.25" in .38 +P that has never been fired, and I notice that the bottom of the forcing cone is "shaved" flat in that area making the forcing cone wall thickness much thinner in that area. My GP 100 is not like that. Seems like that thinner area would be more prone to erosion or cracking in the future? I just wrote Ruger, any suggestions? Thanks!
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I see no problem with that, I have a Ruger SP101 9mm with the same thing. I just bought a new Ruger SP101 22lr with a chunk missing out of the forcing cone and also a good size chip on the crown, will wait and see how well they fix it and how long it takes to determain if I am still a Ruger fan or not, they would really have to tick me off though considering I love my security six's , gp 100's , and sp101's like no other.
Eric
 
What did you write Ruger & what suggestions do you want?
That's just the way they're built & that area's relieved to close the cylinder.
Denis
 
Yes. Buy a bigger gun. The flat spot is to allow the yoke to close with the pivot for the cylinder under the forcing cone. On the bigger GP, there is more room and that flat is not needed.

You are kind of like complaining that the two seater sports car you just bought has small seats, and nowhere near as much room as your Caddie.
 
Thanks for the answers. I'm not trying to complain.... just making sure I'm not screwed on this. I have seen a SP101 where it had a slightly more pronounced flat spot that developed a crack at that exact spot. I have heard some do not have the flat spot, so it seemed weird that some would have it and some do not. Why would the SP101 design fluctuate so some forcing cones needed flattening to accomodate the yoke and others would not? Maybe it's because the forcing cone is longer on the .38 only model?
It does lock up tight as a drum.
I was only concerned about whether it makes the area vulnerable to cracking with extended .38 +P use since the cone wall is a little thinner.
 
Any place that is thinner is of course going to be MORE vulnerable. The strongest set up is to have the barrel stop at the frame and be fully supported all around. Best yet is a one piece barrel with no forcing cone at all like on a break open single shot like a Contender. Unfortunately this limits you to one shot. A bigger gun is of course stronger, but you have a bigger gun than you want.

The real question is: "is it strong enough"? It is. The SP101 is a compact frame gun, and probably the strongest one in this genre. They are tough and you will not wear it out and probably will have no issue with what you are worried about, unless you are a handloader that likes to load magnum ammo in your 38 brass to see if you can blow something up. All gun features are compromises, and you compromise some strength and the size of parts in order to get a compact revolver that will take 357 magnum ammo. You cannot have massive brute strength and small size too.

Your gun is normal. Just shoot it. If the forcing cone splits, Ruger will fix it.

Just my two cents

Louie
 
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I wouldn't worry about .38 +P hurting it. The first .357 SP's were just .38's with the cylinder reamed. If W.B. Ruger was willing to let it go to market, it's most likely overbuilt.
 
The flat at the bottom of the forcing cone is the weak spot in the K-frame Smith and Wesson .357 magnums. With a steady diet of hight intensity 110 or 125 gr .357 magnum ammunition the forcing cones of the Model 19 and model 13 revolvers began to crack. The Model 66 and 65 stainless steel revolvers also had problems but not as often.

When using heavy/long bullets the problem was not as manifest.

This is the reason that S&W developed the L-frame/GP-100 size revolvers.
 
That's odd. My .357 mag SP (1-26-11) does not have the relief on the forcing cone like yours. Either way, I wouldn't worry.
 
I have a first year SP in 38 special and mine is relieved as much or more than your's with no cracks after 22 years. As a matter of fact, I have two short frame guns and a long frame and they're all relieved on the bottom of the forcing cone. No big deal.
 

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