New Model Single-Six Accuracy

[aqbill]

Dear Fellow Enthusiasts,
I have a 1975 New Model Single Six with 5.5 inch barrel. I am the original owner. I am at my wits end trying to get it to shoot accurately. For a long time - over 35 years to be exact - I just figured it was me being a poor pistol shot but now that I have a High-Standard...I have learned that it's not me! Seriously, I cannot get it to group anywhere. At 10 yards the groups are all over the place. I feel lucky to hit the berm behind the target. The HS puts everything within a two to three inch group whereas the SS is 8 to 10 inches - at best.

If anybody could point me in the right direction I'd be extremely grateful!

:?

 

[M3Stuart]

From my personal experience; it sounds like the barrel is 'leaded up'. After about 100 rounds of .22, the barrel has accumulated so much lead residue that accuracy is impossible - whether its a single six, MkIII or whatever.

My suggestion; take your cleaning rod with a new .22 cal brush and ream out the barrel and cylinders after each 50 rounds.

If you do this and see some small, shiney shavings come out, (and the accuracy improves), then you'll know this was your problem.

You probably know this; but leading is caused by gas-cutting. i.e. When the gun is fired, some of the gas leaks around the sides of the projectile and vaporizes some of the lead, then the vaporized lead is deposited throughout the barrel.

Again, just my experience.

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum y'all.
Gee if leading of the barrel is such a problem, ALL of my 22's must be defective. (I have over 40 of them.) I have shot hundreds of rounds w/o cleaning a bore, and not had a problem with leading & accuracy.

I seriously doubt that leading is the issue. However, I would clean it to make sure and give you a starting place.

Next, while you are cleaning it, take a magnifying glass & study the muzzle end. (With the gun unloaded of course.) SOmetimes a small ding, chip or whatever can happen, and you not realize it causing erratic accuracy.

Next, a Ruger revolver is not going to be as accurate as a HS semi-auto. (If that was the type of HS you have.) Why? Well, the Rugers bore diameter is designed a little bigger to accept 22 mag ammo.
Next, try different kinds of ammo, AND at the same time get an experienced SA revolver shooter to shoot it alongside you. Sometimes it's the shooter's gripping method, and follow through that can be the culprit.

Lastly, it could be, (yet highly unlikely) a slight timing issue where the Ruger is out of time a little. A gunsmith can determine that potential problem.

 

[Uncle Howie]

I think both contender and M3Stuart have given reasonable advice.

I had bad leading problems in a S&W 617 once, 20+ years ago. It was from Federal Lightnings, back when they came in a black brick with yellow and white graphics. My accuracy went to pot in fairly short order, so I decided to clean it. I got multiple curls of shiny lead out when I cleaned the barrel with a tight-fitting patch. I've never had it happen again... but I'll never forget it, either!

I agree with the advice to give it a thorough cleaning, and examine the crown.

If you had some leading problems, try switching to different ammo. Some swear by copper-washed bullets, some like a waxy bullet, etc.

Were you by chance shooting Remington Thunderbolts? They have a reputation for leading, at least on some of the forums.

Good luck!

 

[flatgate]

I use Paco Kelly's Accurizer.

http://www.leverguns.com/store/acurizer.htm

flatgate

 

[KLR650]

Try plinking with soda cans or any other object. I don't know why but I do crappy on paper targets with my Single Six but rarely ever miss a can or clay pigeon at 30 to 50 yards. Golf balls at 25 yards are easy.

 

[Snake45]

Leading as described above is NOT a normal .22 problem. However, it CAN happen.

I once had it happen with a brand of foreign .22 ammo. SEVERE leading that would happen within 50 rounds, in any type of gun. And I'd brought a whole brick of the crap!

Since then, I've only had it happen one other time, with a brand of ammo that is normally very reliable but this particular batch must not have been lubed, or something. But once it's in there, yes, you need to get the stuff out. My favorite tool for this is a brand-new USGI 5.56mm M16 bore brush, which is tighter and stiffer than commercial .22 brushes you can buy at Walmart or your LGS.

 

[Klondike Mike]

I took my 1974 version out yesterday and it was shooting horrible with 22 long rifle ammo. Once I figured out that I had the 22 WMR cylinder in the gun and changed it to the right cylinder it tightened up considerably. Hope that helps. Mike

 

[Acorn]

Just a thought. Look at the barrel throat. I've heard that some were virtually non-existant.

 

[meshugunner]

SS's seem to have timing issues. It seems that certain percentage of the Ruger SS's come from the factory this way and just won't shoot until the timing is fixed.

My own experience: I recently bought a used SS convertible manufactured in 1973 and it shot like the OP described. Trouble staying on a sheet of office paper at 10 yds and a lot of keyholing. Both calibers did this.

I sent it back to Ruger and they returned it with two new cylinders timed in plus some other replacements (all at at no charge).

Last time I shot it, I got a couple of nickel sized groups at 10yds with Federal Bulk from Walmart. ( I can't get those groups every time I shoot but I am sure the gun can).