My .44spec Varmint Load

steve b

Single-Sixer
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Apr 20, 2010
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N.E. Ohio
Have considered, then re-considered keeping a shot shell first up, when afield. There's been a marked uptick in rattlers and there's always the usual small camp pests. Yet I hate to have a first shot up load thats only gonna annoy things bigger'n 10 lbs.. Have more bears and coyotes actually denning on camp acreage, so... A better varmint load was born. I'll skip the experimenting and such and go to the final loading. I used CCI 300 primers, to light 6 grs of Unique. I cut disks from a plastic milk jug to place on top of the powder to keep it from mixing into the 65 grs of 9 shot that goes in next. The 135gr Rn from Matt's Bullets holds it all nicely in place. Results on cardboard at 15 feet are encouraging. There is some wiggle room. I may try to squeeze in 70 grs of 9 shot, or top the load witha 165 SWc that Matt has. From recoil, load is mild and can stand some tweeking. First loads were fired thru a SBH, later tests thru a .44spec bulldog. YMMV. Stay safe. steve b
 
It might not matter but it always been my thinking that the follow up shot to one of those snake loads aught to be a lead swc. A jacketed bullet behind a hot load could build a bit more pressure if there is lead residue in the barrel from the shot load.

I shoot both single action and double action revolvers so I have to double check that I have my snake load in the correct chamber. Murphy's Law says if that snake load isn't fired first, the crimp wont hold and the cylinder will bind up in a bad situation. But that could be the best reason for loading a bullet on top
 
The follow up loads are lead. That load varies wether I'm here, or up in the hills. steve b
 
I would like to see that pattern at 15yds. I just can't imagine that the shot that is behind the slug would do much of anything.
 
Well, it doesn't make as "pretty" of a pattern as a CCI shot-shell due to larger shot, and the bullet taking up volume. It is though, lethal to much larger critters. Am quite happy with the load. I need to chrono it, decide if the wiggle room is best filled with either another .5 gr of Unique or some more shot. Stay safe, steve b
 
I don't really understand the need for snake shot loads. If you are within striking distance you should be close enough to hit it with a bullet.
 
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davidj;
You are absolutely correct. Any pistolman worth his salt should be able to clip the heads off a snake at those ranges (handshaking range) with a slug. HOWEVER, I did a lot of hiking in "hard country" and having a slug come back nearly as fast as it went out did not appeal to me nearly so much as #12 shot. So, THAT is the reason I used shot cartridges in "hard country"...

In the relatively "soft" mountains of Pennsylvania, slugs work just fine. In Kentucky and Tennessee, "it depends".

FWIW
Dale53
 
When I unexpectedly confront a bad snake I can usually be seen doing my impression of an ape with his pants on fire!

Therefore, I'll take all the help I can get hitting that head. Barkeep, one order of shot shell please!

To you real men who can snipe snakes from distance, Cheers!


Pete

IMG_0549.jpg
 
Sugar River said:
When I unexpectedly confront a bad snake I can usually be seen doing my impression of an ape with his pants on fire!

Therefore, I'll take all the help I can get hitting that head. Barkeep, one order of shot shell please!

To you real men who can snipe snakes from distance, Cheers!


Pete

IMG_0549.jpg

What kind of pipsqueek loads does that peashooter shoot??
 
davidj said:
I don't really understand the need for snake shot loads. If you are within striking distance you should be close enough to hit it with a bullet.

I hunt copperheads at night because that is when they are out and about. Picture tall grass, weeds and brush that mostly hides small targets that can't be seen unill you're right on them.
Copperheads are ill tempered, lightning-quick and tend to stand their ground 'n fight back. I've often not even seen the dern things untill they are coming at me. Not much aiming is involved in that, mostly it is point quick and press.

There's a lot of difference in what I've descibed and precision target shooting down at the range. And bear in mind that there aint no "Weaver stance" going on out in the bush at night, because your off hand is busy manuvering the flashlight it holds. If you want to try your hand at placing a single bullet into a significant spot under them conditions, be my guest. But for me, I need whatever advantage I can get.

Yep, aint no two ways about it....a big bore 6-gun that throws a shot pattern suits me just fine.

DGW
 
DGW1949 said:
davidj said:
I don't really understand the need for snake shot loads. If you are within striking distance you should be close enough to hit it with a bullet.

I hunt copperheads at night because that is when they are out and about. Picture tall grass, weeds and brush that mostly hides small targets that can't be seen unill you're right on them.
Copperheads are ill tempered, lightning-quick and tend to stand their ground 'n fight back. I've often not even seen the dern things untill they are coming at me. Not much aiming is involved in that, mostly it is point quick and press.

There's a lot of difference in what I've descibed and precision target shooting down at the range. And bear in mind that there aint no "Weaver stance" going on out in the bush at night, because your off hand is busy manuvering the flashlight it holds. If you want to try your hand at placing a single bullet into a significant spot under them conditions, be my guest. But for me, I need whatever advantage I can get.

Yep, aint no two ways about it....a big bore 6-gun that throws a shot pattern suits me just fine.

DGW
Under these circumstances I'd be inclined to use a shotgun(or Judge).
 
When one round does what you want it to do (kill the snake) I wouldn't call 'em pipsqueak.
In the case above it was a CCI 45 Auto shotshell, number 9s I believe.
I roll my own for revolvers.


Pete
 
Steve,

I believe Speer makes shot capsules in .44 --- but I have not tried them.

However, I have used their .38 shot capsules in revolvers and have been pleased with the results on snakes. The pattern spreads at the rate of about an inch for each foot traveled, therefore, you get most of the shot in a 10" group at 10 feet.

An optional approach for .44 shot shells would be to drop the powder charge, seat a gas check on top of the powder (with the sides pointed up), fill the case with shot, then crimp a gas check (with the sides pointed down) on the top of the case.

We used .38 shot shells made with gas checks in the 1960's, prior to the introduction of the Speer shot shots.

JMHO - YRMV
 
Its not that I can't make or buy shotshells. The point is my shotshell has a 135gr RN ball-et on top. So, short range lethal to critters from frogs to 'yotes. stevemb
 
stevemb said:
Its not that I can't make or buy shotshells. The point is my shotshell has a 135gr RN ball-et on top. So, short range lethal to critters from frogs to 'yotes. stevemb

I worked up a simular load in .357 many years ago. As I recall, it involved Unique powder, 2 or 3 ( I forget the exact number that I settled on) lead balls and #7-1/2 or #8 shot. What I did was put a cardboard wad over the powder, add some small shot, push in a ball, add enough shot to to just cover the ball, push in the second ball, repeat, and then fill with shot untill there was just enough room left to crimp a top wad into the case mouth, which I sealed with Elmers glue. The balls that I used were .360 and meant for a C&B revolver. Pushing the oversize balls through the chamber of my Ruger SA "resized" them enough to be loaded into the .357 cases.

If you were inclined to try something simular, perhaps a ball could be had that would work in a 44Mag case?

Just throwing something out for thought.

DGW
 

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