Moving or replacing a sight .

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When moving a dovetail sight is there any special direction that needs to be done or can the sight be moved either direction? I ask because I plan on putting a yellow front and rear sight on my Security 380; I just cannot pick up the little green with my old eyes and I don't want to screw something up by some bozo move.
 
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It used to be that they made the dovetails tapered so that when the sight was installed it "self tightened". But nowadays that would be extra steps to do that (more costly) so I believe that they are parallel so removing and installing from either side can be done. To be sure you can measure the openings on both side to see if the dovetails are tapered (if you have a decent set of calipers). Or, start the sight one side with your fingers and then try the other side and see if it is the same, looser or tighter. Personally, I remove from left to right and install from right to left unless I know which way the taper, if any, goes.
 
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down the barrel from the "shooters" end ( rear) drift from left to right, the taper is smaller on the left side, ( at least it USED to be in days gone by, now they seem more "precise"??) it is MORE important just what is holding the gun FIRMLY in place ( padded vice) and what you are driving the sight out of the dovetail with ( non metallic punch/drift) better yet if you have one of those new fangled "Sight pushers" offered these days, and simply "crank it out" again follow any and ALL directions!!
take your time, neatness counts, see all too many FUBARs.......:cool::rolleyes:;)
 
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I've heard this and always wondered:
If dovetails were tapered, what would keep a sight from becoming loose in the dovetail if it had to be moved towards the "wider" side?

And what type of production tool would cut an evenly tapered dovetail, other than a human with a file?

Just trying to think this through.
 
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Left to right is what I have always heard. Either the sight or the dovetail will have a starter bevel that lets it start into the dovetail. I prefer a pusher tool now. I have buggered a few sights drifting with a hammer.
 
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Bought myself a sight pusher and replaced the OEM sights on my Security 380 with the 'yellow line' ones from Ruger. Left to right and no problem. Beats the devil out of banging them out with a brass punch.
 
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"And what type of production tool would cut an evenly tapered dovetail, other than a human with a file?"

I have various sizes of dovetail cutters for my milling machine, makes cutting the dovetails so much easier. They are basically a special end mill that is made with the most common dovetail slopes (60 degree, 65 degree, etc.). I mark the centerline for the sight and make my first cut. If the sight base is wider than the cut, you move the cutter forward or rearward to make the dovetail wider. I always cut the dovetail .001/.002 less than the width of the sight base and then finish the install using using a file with the correct dimensions to get a good tight fit. I also use a sight pusher, much easy and you're less prone to an "OOPS".

On a firearm that the dovetail is already cut, if the sight is too wide I modify the sight, not the firearm. If you screw up the sight you are either out a few dollars or you migh be able to use it on a different gun. Easy to take metal off a gun, hard to put it back on if you make a mistake.
 
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"Is there a sight pusher that will accommodate the rear sight on a 3 Screw Single Six?"
Not sure about that but there are numerous sight pushers on the market nowadays. Check MidayUSA, Brownells, or just google firearm sight pusher and you'll see. You'll probably have to look for one that is specifc to revolvers as most that I've seen are geared to semi autos. Check the RealAvid brand, they are a pretty up and coming place for gunsmith tools and IIRC they have come out with a sight pusher.
 
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There are numerous sight pushers on the markey nowadays, Check MidayUSA, Brownells, or just google firearm sight pusher and you'll see. Check the RealAvid braand, they are a pretty up and coming place for gunsmith tools and IIRC they have come out with a sight pusher.
I've been looking for a bit- and every one I've looked at won't accommodate the revolver frame. I'm about at the point of building my own…
 
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The big thing would be building something that would clamp around the frame after you removed the cylinder and then it would have to be designed/built so that the "pusher" could contact the sight. I think it could be done if no one has done it yet. And so far, from what I've searched no one has yet. I can visualize one in my head but will need to do some looking at some SA revolvers that have dovetailed rear sights and start drawing to see if my idea is feasible.
 
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On the issue of drifting a dovetail sight on a revolver, I wonder if a "Wyoming Sight Drifter" kinetic tool would do what is needed?

 
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I have heard a lot of good remarks about the Wyoming Sight Drifter and I think a few people here on the forum have one. Also there are punches that are formed to the shape of different dovetails so you get a tip that matches and as such you are contacting the full sight base other than with a round punch where you are only contacting a smal portion of the sight base. I also have some of these and they work a lot better than a round tip punch.
 
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In my opinion and from what we see NOW days, often times MORE damage is done to the surrounding areas of the frame or barrel than if you would just do like most of us have done for the past half century and put it in a well padded vise, and use the proper punch ( drift) and take your time, do the job right...yes "neatness counts":cool::rolleyes:;)
 
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I have heard a lot of good remarks about the Wyoming Sight Drifter and I think a few people here on the forum have one. Also there are punches that are formed to the shape of different dovetails so you get a tip that matches and as such you are contacting the full sight base other than with a round punch where you are only contacting a smal portion of the sight base. I also have some of these and they work a lot better than a round tip punch.
I have heard about that Wyoming sight drifter- forgot all about it. I do have several brass punches that I have ground to specific sizes for just that purpose. Maybe it's my OCD in this- I measure with a micrometer and then lightly tap with the hammer and drift. But all too often it turns into a "oops, to much" back and forth game. Again, my OCD probably plays too much into this, but I like to start with a perfectly centered sight. I have purchased numerous pistols where the sights are adjusted to one side or the other… and I find that they shoot perfectly with the sight centered.

My wife says I can be a pain in the rear…I'm the guy that looks at a car across the parking lot and says " the left side is sitting 3/16" lower than the right…
 
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Dan, people nowadays are in just plain too big of a hurry. They want it done NOW. They just grab anything that is close by, don't slow down and think the steps through, and hammer away and then are pizzed when they screw something up. I have a good vise, various sets of padded inserts (because one size DOES NOT fit all) and a good number of drift punches, many that I have modified to fit what I'm doing. I plan exactly what I want to accomplish. Might take me a bit longer but I don't end up with an oopsed frame.
 

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