LRP vs LPP

[bfm1851]

OK I think I know what I am going to do but wanted to get some opinions from others. Last night I primed 50 45 colt brass for a range trip today. In my haste I picked up large rifle primers instead on pistol primers. I always check the case after priming for high primers as I had some troubles years ago. I did not noticed anything wrong with the brass but when I went to clean up I noticed I had used the rifle primers instead of pistol. I checked again and all the primers "looked" OK but if I put a straight edge across the back and held it to the light I could make out where the primer was not flush.
I tried fit in my ruger blackhawk and no problem with interference on the cylinder. But I am still hesitant about loading them up. Right now all I have lost is the primers. loaded I stand to loss much more if they bind up. I have pushed out a primer or two when I get a flipped one but 50 seems like too many. Even being hard to find and costing up to $45/1000 it not worth the risk. Think I will take them out to the range today and load them one at a time and shoot them off.
Am I being a little too careful if that's possible in reloading? Maybe too late? :oops:

 

[contender]

If I read this correctly, all you currently have is primed brass. And, you are seeing a small amount of them being a bit high.
If this is correct, you can do a few things.
One, return them to the press & de-prime them, capturing the still unfired primers for re-use. (Just to be safe, Wrap a towel around the press/ram as you gently de-prime the cases.)
Two, run them back through the primer seating station and know they are seated flush or slightly below.
However, I would opt for the first suggestion, since they are rifle primers.

 

[Chief 101]

If you are using Federal primers you might get away with using them, but Rifle primers aremade from thicker metal and need deeper primer pockets so I would opt for taking them out...I have removed many hundreds of primers over the years and reused them only losing 4-5 in the process due to loose fit in the second time around. Use the proper components and pay careful attention to the details and the labels.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Why not load a couple of mild loads and try them in you gun. If you get good ignition go ahead and use them. It would be like using a magnum primer. If the hammer doesn't set them off de-cap and de-prime the others. :D

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

If all we've got is primed cases at this point, there would be no question in my mind: CAREFULLY deprime the cases on the press, OR, if you don't mind losing all the primers, take the primed cases and shoot them so you can start over.

Call me a belt and suspenders guy, but since my loading bench is a total "catch all" when I'm not loading, there's a lot of chances for mixing things up. That's UNTIL I start loading! Then there's ONE powder, ONE pkg of primers, ONE kind of brass and ONE kind of bullet on it. And I double check each one before getting started.

I'm not afraid of pulling down mistakes, but don't like to make it a habit! :oops:

Rick C

 

[mikld]

Large rifle primers ate a bit taller than large pistol primers. The major problem would be with high primers and slam fires or primers rubbing the recoil shield. If neither happens with your 45 Colt cases, go ahead and shoot 'em...

 

[bfm1851]

Well before anyone answered I loaded up and headed off to the range. My objective was to just shoot the primers. As I said I tried several in my Blackhawk and all cleared nicely. I decided to load them one at a time, good thing. First one fired and cylinder would not turn. Primer backed out just enough to lock it up. now for the reason I brought the Blackhawk and not my Redhawk. Pulled the cylinder out and cleared the spent primer. That was it brought all the rest home and carefully de-primed them, on the press with a rag and safety glasses. Saved every one, checked them carefully and decided they are good to go IN RIFLE BRASS next time :lol:
I am normally very careful while reloading but this just goes to shoe, you can not be too careful.

 

[mr surveyor]

as for popping primers in uncharged/no-bullet brass, I never had much success. Without the back pressure from powder/projectile to drive the brass rearward on the recoil shield, the primer doesn't get "re-seated" into the primer pocket.

been there, done that

 

[Chief 101]

I have seen and used from various manufacturers primer powered plastic projectiles in 38 and 44 calibers made for practice use in revolvers that work fine with no back pressure...it is the rifle primers used in pistol primer pockets that doesn't work well so often.

 

[mr surveyor]

I have seen and used from various manufacturers primer powered plastic projectiles in 38 and 44 calibers made for practice use in revolvers that work fine with no back pressure...it is the rifle primers used in pistol primer pockets that doesn't work well so often.

that may be completely true. Almost every time I've popped a primer in an empty hull, the primer has unseated. When I've loaded wax boolits in the primed cases (no powder), the reaction to the projectile leaving the barrel has always seemed to be just enough to re-seat the primer.

 

[mikld]

I have seen and used from various manufacturers primer powered plastic projectiles in 38 and 44 calibers made for practice use in revolvers that work fine with no back pressure...it is the rifle primers used in pistol primer pockets that doesn't work well so often.

that may be completely true. Almost every time I've popped a primer in an empty hull, the primer has unseated. When I've loaded wax boolits in the primed cases (no powder), the reaction to the projectile leaving the barrel has always seemed to be just enough to re-seat the primer.

Yes, primers will back out of cases when fired without a load (even a bullet with no powder will most often drive the case back into the recoil shield, reseating primers. I have used Large Rifle Primers in my Ruger SBH (way back when, pre web) and if I "pre-loaded" them and they cleared the recoil shield, every one shot w/o problems