Lost Thread...Screw Anchors ??

Oops, forgot about the classifieds. I like the Tapcon hardened self-tapping concrete screws. Hold very well and drive easily with a hammer-drill. I just put about 80 in old hard concrete with a Harbor Freight cheapy hammer-drill. Also anchored my gun safe to my garage floor with them.

http://www.lowes.com/Fasteners/Screws/Concrete-Screws/_/N-1z0yk3l/pl#!&N%5B%5D=1z0yk3l&N%5B%5D=1z128tq
 
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exavid said:
Oops, forgot about the classifieds. I like the Tapcon hardened self-tapping concrete screws. Hold very well and drive easily with a hammer-drill. I just put about 80 in old hard concrete with a Harbor Freight cheapy hammer-drill. Also anchored my gun safe to my garage floor with them.

http://www.lowes.com/Fasteners/Screws/Concrete-Screws/_/N-1z0yk3l/pl#!&N%5B%5D=1z0yk3l&N%5B%5D=1z128tq


+1 on the Tapcon system.
 
I like Tapcons as well, but I have run into some extra-hard concrete, brick, and tile block that you couldn't drive them in without breaking off. The solution for that was to use the Tapcon bit to drill a pilot hole, then a larger bit for a plastic anchor, and put the Tapcon in the plastic anchor !
Sounds goofy, but in many years of maintenance work, you encounter some strange situations.

Myron
 
Tap-Cons work well great for lite duty. Hilti makes the best as someone mentioned the search for anchors that work. I recommend Hilti's Liquid Anchors used them on a Damn project to hold concrete forms to ledge they will never let go. ps

https://www.us.hilti.com/anchor-systems/expansion-anchors/sc-CLS_SC32278#/stage2/cls_anchor_systems_foldout
 
I use stainless steel tapcons in my work all the time... and yes, you have to be careful or you can break one off... especially with the new cordless impact drivers. Reaming the hole out a little on very hard concrete will help.
 
The guy only was here for ads that were marginally or not at all gun related.


The ad you are looking for was for TapCons. As the others say they are great for concrete work.
 
powder smoke said:
Tap-Cons work well great for lite duty. Hilti makes the best as someone mentioned the search for anchors that work. I recommend Hilti's Liquid Anchors used them on a Damn project to hold concrete forms to ledge they will never let go. ps

https://www.us.hilti.com/anchor-systems/expansion-anchors/sc-CLS_SC32278#/stage2/cls_anchor_systems_foldout

Yes, I've used Hilti stuff for a lot of years, for heavy duty anchoring. Even retired, I have quite a selection of Hilti anchoring products.

But I don't always need to hang 16" pipe. Sometimes I just need to attach a book shelf to a cinder block wall. That's where the light duty Tapcon or Con-Sert type products peak my interest. I've used a variety of light duty fasteners in concrete and/or cinder block, always with mixed results. I'd like to find a light duty fastener that would always work in concrete as designed, without having to back track and glue the fasteners that didn't "grab", or otherwise use expanding anchors to secure the same failed fasteners.

WAYNO.
 
When I built my shop I used nothing but Hilti. They are easy and reliable. I am no expert though so I can't tell you they are the best, they were just very convenient for me.

Karl
 
Tapcon is about the best thing out there unless you use Red Head anchor bolts. Problem with those is that folks either use the wrong size drill bit, don't drill deep enough or drill too deep. The solution to this, like many, many issues, is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
 
These:

05548.jpg


http://www.powers.com/images/images_products/mechanical/05548.jpg

They are great, and hold sufficiently to sink the fastener into pine.
 
powder smoke and wayno,

How do you keep the Hilti epoxy from running out of the hole on a horizontal or overhead installation ?

Myron
 
speedsixman said:
powder smoke and wayno,

How do you keep the Hilti epoxy from running out of the hole on a horizontal or overhead installation ?

Myron

Ya know, we tested overhead hangers with the two-part Hilti glue. (That's how we referred to it). The strength was incredible.

The two-part glue, as it came out of the mixing nozzle, is quite thick. So, the issue was not that the epoxy ran out of the hole, but the all-thread would fall out of the hole. Fortunately, the stuff cures pretty fast, so we'd have a piece of wood or pipe just longer than the distance from the end of the all-thread to the floor, and wedge that piece in place, to hold the all-thread til the glue would keep it in place. Horizontal installations were easier, but the all-thread would droop. If it was important that the all-thread was perfectly horizontal, we'd also have to physically hold the stud til the glue began to cure, or again cut a piece of pipe or wood just long enough to support the stud. Although we never did it, the Hilti glue came with little pieces of window screen, apparently to wrap a portion of the all thread to keep it tighter in the hole while it was curing.

Another thing about this Hilti glue? I've got quite a bit of it, but apparently it has a shelf life. The last two cartridges I used, would not cure, in spite of these never being opened or pierced in any way.

As a pipefitter, I might install dozens of hangers in a day. The Hilti glue was time consuming. Mostly I'd use the Hilti Kwik-Bolts. I've never had one fail.

WAYNO.
 
Wayno,
I understand. I have seen that product but never used it

That is a totally different epoxy than I was thinking of. They have (or had) an epoxy that the two parts (an amber liquid and some gray granules) both parts came in the same glass tube. The installation process was to drill your hole for the anchor, then insert the glass tube and chuck your all-thread or anchor bolt in a drill and jam it into the hole and break the glass tube, churning up the whole thing and mixing the epoxy in the process. After a few revolutions of the anchor to mix the epoxy, disconnect the drill chuck and let the epoxy set up.
I think cure time to strength was 24 hours, and it was touted to be stronger than the concrete.

Those were great for flat work, but you would have to jury rig some way to keep it from running out in a vertical or overhead position.

Myron
 
WAYNO said:
speedsixman said:
powder smoke and wayno,

How do you keep the Hilti epoxy from running out of the hole on a horizontal or overhead installation ?

Myron

Ya know, we tested overhead hangers with the two-part Hilti glue. (That's how we referred to it). The strength was incredible.

The two-part glue, as it came out of the mixing nozzle, is quite thick. So, the issue was not that the epoxy ran out of the hole, but the all-thread would fall out of the hole. Fortunately, the stuff cures pretty fast, so we'd have a piece of wood or pipe just longer than the distance from the end of the all-thread to the floor, and wedge that piece in place, to hold the all-thread til the glue would keep it in place. Horizontal installations were easier, but the all-thread would droop. If it was important that the all-thread was perfectly horizontal, we'd also have to physically hold the stud til the glue began to cure, or again cut a piece of pipe or wood just long enough to support the stud. Although we never did it, the Hilti glue came with little pieces of window screen, apparently to wrap a portion of the all thread to keep it tighter in the hole while it was curing.

Another thing about this Hilti glue? I've got quite a bit of it, but apparently it has a shelf life. The last two cartridges I used, would not cure, in spite of these never being opened or pierced in any way.

As a pipefitter, I might install dozens of hangers in a day. The Hilti glue was time consuming. Mostly I'd use the Hilti Kwik-Bolts. I've never had one fail.

WAYNO.


This is why I like Red Heads. Drill, hammer it in and continue on. If you've got time for the epoxy to cure this sound great. I usually don't. And, you don't have to worry about centering horizontal installations. Never had a Red Head come out yet.
 
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