Leather holster help

[RoninPA]

I received, as a gift, a Crvena Zastava Mod 70 in 7.65mm (.32 acp). It came with a pretty cheap new leather flap holster. When I put the pistol into the holster, the leather on the outside started cracking. It's dyed brownand I don't know if it is the dye that is cracking or because it has been in storage for so long. There is no wear on the holster so I am guessing (not assuming :D ) that it is an original due to the condition (never had a pistol in it).

What best to soften it up for use? When I put the gun in and it started sounding like Rice Krispies, I took it back out untill I can do something with it.

Thanks for an suggestions.

 

[hittman]

Some have said to soak it in water for hydration.

I think I'd visit my local western wear store cause they are on third generation of boot, shoe, saddle repair. They would surely have a product to recommend.

Wolverine used to make a leather dressing that looked like Vaseline ..... I have some Harley leather dressing I use on coats, seats, etc. Both work great for me.

 

[Skoopski]

Natural (not dyed) shoe polish. Test it first on a small spot to make sure it won’t affect the dye. It will hydrate and also protect.

 

[trebor44]

Obenaufs Heavy Duty LP, just one of many products. Avoid SnoSeal etc formulas.

 

[gramps]

Saddle soap hydrates, and cleans. We used to use linseed oil on our leather ball gloves to make it supple and break it in. Good luck.
gramps

 

[GLASSMAN]

How do you like your model 70? One of the LGS in town ( R Guns), has them for $ 225.00. I was thinking about it.
I bought one of their Beretta bb88's in .32 acp for $ 295.00.
I like it pretty well. Hell of a slide spring, though. VERY stiff.

 

[RoninPA]

Just so happens the ones my customer bought came from R Guns. They were HEAVILY coated with cosmoline. I used brake cleaner to get to the point of being able to take one apart to put in the ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner did it's job and you could see the gun had next to no wear on it. The one given to me was even more heavily coated and was a bear to degrease to the point of being able to take it apart. But I got it done and it cleaned up very nicely also.

Bad part is that neither of us have any .32acp or 7.65mm ammo. But I found a place that had 50 round boxes of Norma .32acp for $24.99 so I ordered 14 boxes, 4 for me and 10 for my customer.

The trigger pull is very heavy but it's actually a nice little gun once it got cleaned/relubed.

The only draw back was the holsters, they are new, never used so dry as a bone. I'm going the linseed oil on the inside (non coated leather) on one and see what happens.

 

[LDM]

You might also try Nakona baseball glove conditioner. Rub it into the exposed surfaces. May take 2-3 applications to re-hydrate.

Supposedly Balistol is also good for conditioning leather. Haven't tried it myself but look on their website for info on leather use.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

And of course there's always good ol' mink oil . . . :wink:

 

[WMB30]

Ballistol and leather like each other

Bill

 

[arfmel]

Saddle soap hydrates, and cleans. We used to use linseed oil on our leather ball gloves to make it supple and break it in. Good luck.
gramps

Linseed? Or neatsfoot? I used to work in a saddlery and never heard of linseed oil being used on leather.

Linseed oil will become sticky as it dries, unless you use boiled linseed oil. Linseed oil is more typically used as wood treatment.

 

[caryc]

Lexol leather conditioner.

 

[turd]

And of course there's always good ol' mink oil . . . :wink:

From someone in the great white north, this stuff really works.

 

[Mobuck]

"I'm going the linseed oil on the inside (non coated leather) on one and see what happens."
I've never heard of putting linseed oil on leather--only wood.
Neatsfoot oil is the correct product for leather. LEXOL works too but is far more expensive

 

[arfmel]

There’s nothing really wrong with Lexol. It’s an emulsion of 70-80% water, neatsfoot oil and other oils making up the balance. Look at the MSDS for it.

I just don’t like to pay that much for water.

If you want to use something most folks have on hand, olive oil works well-it doesn’t become rancid and sticky like most vegetable oils when exposed to the air. We used olive oil on lots of higher end leather goods at the saddlery, when we got a shipment of funky neatsfoot oil from our supplier.

 

[RoninPA]

Well, all your answers gives me a lot to consider. I did a test on a small section (on the bare leather on the inside) using boiled linseed oil and it softened the leather but whatever the coating on the outside is it didn't affect it and when you bend it, it cracks. Not to the point where you can see the leather but I wonder what that coating might be. I tried a little of the linseed oil on the strap coating but it didn't do a thing. The holsters from all inspection have never been used (stitching is pristine, no marks at all on the holster) and I don't know how old they are.

Next up is to try to find out, by the s/n's how old the guns might be. That may tell me how long the holsters have been in storage. I can tell you that the cosmoline inside and on the barrel and internal parts was HARD.

 

[6GUNSONLY]

I often use the spray olive oil on my oil-tanned leather cowboy boots when they start looking dry. Easy and convenient.

 

[coach]

I came across this a while ago. I have an old holster that needs refinishing but nothing like the holster in the article.
https://revolverguy.com/diy-leather-holster-restoration/