How do you change the trigger return spring in an SP101 .22?

[Campagnolo]

OK I think I have partially fixed the hammer problem. I have not filed, sanded, or Cratexed the hammer serrations yet.

I did receive my Wolff reduced power spring pack today and installed the 9 lb hammer spring.

WOW Shocked what a difference. I need to shoot it to see if it results in any FTFs. I seems to have as much hammer force as my 617. But we shall see if it is strong enough at the range.

I did not change the trigger return spring yet. That looks a bit more difficult and tricky.

Is the best way to remove the pin holding the trigger guard lock assembly, while depressing the latch lock, in the back of the trigger assembly? Or is there a better method?

Thanks for all of your help!

 

[Verndog]

I haven't got there yet, mines on order, but I found a very nice how to on the trigger polish for the SP101.

http://www.teslamap.com/public/sp101/index.html

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Somebody on the forum sells what is called a Ruger Popper. I just use a small screwdriver to push in on the latch. Check-out the Ruger videos on how to dis-assemble a double-action.

Ruger Tech Tips http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html

...Jimbo

 

[dennie]

Camp, I used the instructions that Verndog posted using the Wolf kit. Made a big difference in both single and double action. My SP101 would still not run with the 9# spring, but the next one up, (10# or 11#), CRS again, runs great!
I have it on right now in a Simply Rugged IWB. It is my usual carry piece.
Welcome to the forum!
dennie

 

[dennie]

Camp, forgot to mention that my SP101 also had the razor edges on the hammer. Some careful filing, followed by some careful sanding or stoning, will take care of the problem.
dennie

 

[Verndog]

.... My SP101 would still not run with the 9# spring, but the next one up, (10# or 11#), CRS again, runs great!

What issues did you have with the 9lb spring, was it light striking?

As I understand it the stock spring is 11 lb, so I would not think a 10 lb would make much difference, is it really worth changing to 1 lb less of a spring?

My plan at this point is to dry fire a couple hundred, dis-assemble, clean and polish, then wear in 1000 rounds / dry fires and decide if I want less spring.

 

[steamloco76]

The trigger return spring makes a very big difference and is easy to install. The plunger that you must push in to release the trigger guard assembly from the frame is the same part you remove from the trigger assembly to install the spring.

The plunger has a stepped head and is held into the trigger group by a small cross pin. I just hold the assembly on my workbench (kitchen table) pressing down & in on the plunger and us a small pin drift to remove the cross pin. Slowly release the tension and the plunger & spring come right out. Put the new spring in and make sure the stepped part of the plunger is to ward the top. Put it back in and slide in the cross pin.

By the way- the stock 10lb spring you just removed may then be used as a 2 LB reduction trigger return spring in any older GP-100. They came with a 12LB spring that is way too stiff and the parts are the same. Newer GP-100's have the 10LB spring stock.

 

[csnider]

What kind of polishing material and what kind of sanding material would some of you all recommend?

Thanks,
csnider

 

[dennie]

Verndog, I ordered the Wolff Reduced Power spring set for my SP101 from Brownells, PN 969-171-130AD. It comes with a 9#, 10#, and 12# reduced power hammer spring, and also has an 8# reduced power trigger return spring.
Even after slicking up the action using the directions on the web site you furnished I was having light primer strikes with the 9# spring. I put the 10# spring in and it runs like a top.
The action is plenty good enough now in both SA and DA that I feel no need to worry over it. It made a drastic improvement over stock!
dennie

 

[Verndog]

Verndog, I ordered the Wolff Reduced Power spring set for my SP101 from Brownells, PN 969-171-130AD. It comes with a 9#, 10#, and 12# reduced power hammer spring, and also has an 8# reduced power trigger return spring.
Even after slicking up the action using the directions on the web site you furnished I was having light primer strikes with the 9# spring. I put the 10# spring in and it runs like a top.
The action is plenty good enough now in both SA and DA that I feel no need to worry over it. It made a drastic improvement over stock!
dennie

Thank you for the clarification. I was wrong, stock hammer spring is 14 lbs I guess. I read reports the 8lb trigger return was too weak for some also. I may go ahead and order the springs since they're $9.50 on Midway and have the ace in the hole if needed. Looking forward to getting this running this weekend!

 

[Uncle Howie]

Somebody on the forum sells what is called a Ruger Popper.

Here's a link: http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=75884

 

[sgtlmj]

Return spring is easy to change, but once the trigger housing is free of the frame DO NOT pull the trigger. You'll jettison some very small parts that take a long time to locate in deep carpeting. Don't ask...

 

[Campagnolo]

Thanks to everyone for the help and information you provided!

My SP101 22 is now in great shape!

I removed the 9 lb hammer spring and replaced it with the 10 lb spring. (based on dennie's comments about light strikes with the 9 lb spring)

I installed the 8 lb trigger return spring.

I installed a Hogue grip.

And I have used a whetstone to smooooth out the hammer serrations.


WHAT A DIFFERENCE! :shock:

This is like a totally different revolver than I took out of the box last week!

 

[dennie]

Camp, glad your SP is running great now! Maybe later I will experiment more with the 9# spring. However, I carry my SP nearly every day and I know it works every time. Doubt if a 1# spring rate will make much of a deal anyways.
Enjoy yours!
dennie