The LC6 and MKII triggers are essentially the same and can be improved from factory quite a bit by stoning of the engagement surfaces.
However...the nature of the beast is that some creep must be left in them to insure safe engagement on return of the trigger after bolt manipulation.
These triggers are essentially a copy of an old Mauser commercial 98 trigger from the 30's, but really are quite poor as a modern design in my opinion. Many do not like the old M77 trigger, but I've found them quite easily adjustable using safe procedures and much preferable to the MKII and LC6. The 77's were of course more expensive to make than the MKII and LC6...
Pulling a factory MKII or LC6 Ruger trigger often feels much like dragging a boot from a peat bog. About all Ruger firearms can be materially improved with trigger adjustment.
Having said that, you really need to know what you are doing before monkeying with either the MKII or LC6. I adjust mine to break at no less than 3.25 lbs, preferably 3.5 {they can be easily reduced farther, but I do not believe it is safe, and neither did the Ruger gunsmiths I discussed the issue with. If you study the engagement surfaces I think you will agree.}. I also as stated, leave a hint of creep in the trigger to guarantee seating of engagement surfaces.
In short, sort of if you have to find a website to help you adjust the trigger, I recommend a good quality, properly installed and tested aftermarket.
As for varminting, we have shot thousands of Columbia Ground Squirrels {smaller than a prairie dog} for coyote bait and do so with many Ruger rifles. Shots range from bayonet point to as far as you can see them and we don't like misses. The Ruger trigger can be mastered.
