Help needed Ruger pc9 bolt stop
- Thread starter scuffler
- Start date
QB
Single-Sixer
I have a couple of PC9s but I'm not real familiar with the parts. Does the instruction manual help you out any? If you don't have one, below it the link to it. I'll also try to take mine apart this evening to see how the spring is installed (if I can figure out what part you are talking about). Of course, maybe someone will come along that can help out.
https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/rugerCarbine.pdf[/url]
https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/rugerCarbine.pdf[/url]
Guess I am just going to leave the bolt stop out, cant seem to get it to go back in and operate right, even when looking at a parts diagram for orientation of the part. I called ruger and they said that when they work on a pc9 now they use a different bolt stop and stake it in.
I can see why
I can see why
scuffler said:Guess I am just going to leave the bolt stop out, cant seem to get it to go back in and operate right, even when looking at a parts diagram for orientation of the part. I called ruger and they said that when they work on a pc9 now they use a different bolt stop and stake it in.
I can see why
Never allow any part of a firearm to be un-installed or non-working! If you have a A/D or a failure of any type were a injury or death occurs you would be hard pressed to explain why you were using a firearm with one of its sub-groups inoperative. Ship the PC-9 back to Ruger and let them Up-date the carbine and replace any wore parts that way your Ruger will last a life time.
Hmmm Phila Pd, the ruger well last a life time with or without this part, the bolt stop does nothing but hold bolt open and it is of manual operation and does not occur in the firing or main funtioning of the rifle. It was just bad engineering on rugers part but hey the gun works great, I don't ship my guns out for repairs its just me but I just don't, To much can go wrong, I just don't have that kind of faith in any shipping/mail service. It would be ashamed if I had to explain the bolt stop why addressing a A/D since it has nothing to do with the firing of the weapon.
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
Phila PD makes a good point but on the other side... if we took that advice 80% of this forum would be lost or useless.
Actually from the first post I can't figure out the problem.... the spring only has one of two ways it can go in.... in fact I need to go check and see what the heck the spring does.... the bolt stop on these is kind of back wards anyway... in that you have to push the thing up and hold it to get the bolt to stay open.
I've looked at mine and I think if there is a spring in there is is used to hold the bolt stop down when the rifle is fired.
Actually from the first post I can't figure out the problem.... the spring only has one of two ways it can go in.... in fact I need to go check and see what the heck the spring does.... the bolt stop on these is kind of back wards anyway... in that you have to push the thing up and hold it to get the bolt to stay open.
I've looked at mine and I think if there is a spring in there is is used to hold the bolt stop down when the rifle is fired.
Scuffler,
when I get some time next week I'll see about taking mine apart and hopefully figuring out which way it goes.... feel free to remind me about it on Monday or Tuesday because I probably will forget.
when I get some time next week I'll see about taking mine apart and hopefully figuring out which way it goes.... feel free to remind me about it on Monday or Tuesday because I probably will forget.
doctorbobdc
Bearcat
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2012
- Messages
- 1
Phila PD has a great point.
Of course the gun isn't made any less safe w/o a functioning bolt stop. However, a prosecuting attorney could turn it into a big deal by making you look like an irresponsible gun owner: "He couldn't even be bothered by taking it to a local gunsmith to insure its proper functioning."
These days you really gotta CYA.
Of course the gun isn't made any less safe w/o a functioning bolt stop. However, a prosecuting attorney could turn it into a big deal by making you look like an irresponsible gun owner: "He couldn't even be bothered by taking it to a local gunsmith to insure its proper functioning."
These days you really gotta CYA.
22/45 Fan
Hunter
That's also the way Ruger bolt stops work on 10/22 rifles and new PC Carbines. You retract the bolt by hand and push up on the bolt stop to lock the bolt back. The spring pushes the bolt stop out of engagement when you retract the charging handle.blume357 said:
The factory bolt stop on the 10/22 has to be manually disengaged to close the bolt unless you have modified it or substituted an aftermarket one as almost all owners do. The bolt stop on the PC Carbine disengages automatically when you retract the charging handle and let it go.
I couldn't tell the coil spring's ends being any different from one end or other. Look up in the bottom of the trigger group to see the hole it goes in. Insert the spring, then the lever (so it is situated the same as it was prior to disassembly), then pin it back together. Really it is pretty simple. Don't over think. Took me longer to find the spring off the floor than to fix it back.
It would be dumb to leave the stop out. I have an old rifle that doesn't have one, and it sucks when it jams or runs out of ammo.
I'd buy new pieces for it before I'd coble it back together incomplete.
It would be dumb to leave the stop out. I have an old rifle that doesn't have one, and it sucks when it jams or runs out of ammo.
I'd buy new pieces for it before I'd coble it back together incomplete.
robmkivseries70
Bearcat
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2013
- Messages
- 44
Yep, we had a bolt stop fall out on first inspection. The coil spring goes either way as far as I am concerned. I put the spring in place via round hole in the trigger group frame, the bolt stop in according to the assembly diagram pressed it down and put the pin back in place. I did have to check the parts diagram in the manual before hand. hth
Rob
Rob
22/45 Fan
Hunter
The coil spring goes into the hole either way. The stop plate itself is installed with the tall projection end up and toward the rear of the trigger assembly and the "hook" toward the front. You install the spring, install the plate, push it up to clear the hole and push in the cross pin so it goes through the hook.
BTW, the pin is a bit undersized at 0.123" while the hole is 1/8" (0.125") which is why it falls out so easily. A same length piece of 1/8" rod would make a better than factory pin.
BTW, the pin is a bit undersized at 0.123" while the hole is 1/8" (0.125") which is why it falls out so easily. A same length piece of 1/8" rod would make a better than factory pin.
Captain America
Hunter
Here's a video of complete disassembly, at about 15:10 he takes the bolt stop out which should help you with reassembly...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSwOBkkWpRo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSwOBkkWpRo
22/45 Fan
Hunter
Interesting video but I wonder if the "gunsmith" had ever read the owner's manual before getting into the disassembly. For example, there is no reason to remove the barrel locking block to remove the bolt. Also, good luck at getting the safety spring and detent reinstalled without a specific tool. I wonder how he sorted out that jumble of miscellaneous springs, plungers, and pins he scattered across his work bench seemingly with out keeping them in any order when he went to put it back together.Captain America said:
Finally he keeps referring to a .40 S&W version as if it was already available and, of course, it still isn't if ever.
curtisa777
Bearcat
The spring goes perpendicular to the pin. Remove the bolt stop, insert spring towards ejection port followed by the bolt stop. With tension on bolt stop, insert pin perpendicular to bolt stop and spring to hold in place. When the firearm is disassembled, don't put pressure on the bolt stop or the pin will drop and the whole thing will fall out again.
Hopefully he figured it out sometime in the last 13 years.
