Nogunsmith4me
Single-Sixer
Having hard time :evil: .... How do I remove all that black stuff on the front of my GP100 cylinder after shooting 100 rounds of .38 Is there an easy way? Looks like if it glued to it.
Having trouble cleaning GP100 cylinder.
- Thread starter Nogunsmith4me
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
wixedmords
Blackhawk
Is it a stainless GP100 or a blued model Nogunsmith4me?
Just the actual face of the barrel side of the cylinder?
Just the actual face of the barrel side of the cylinder?
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
If your gun is stainless you can use:
Lead-Away cloth
E-Z Bright wonder cloth or
Tipton Metal Magic Rust and Lead Remover Gun Cleaning Cloth
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=623952
I always use rubber gloves when using one of these magic cloths. Works great for cleaning the bore and chambers also.
...Jimbo
Lead-Away cloth
E-Z Bright wonder cloth or
Tipton Metal Magic Rust and Lead Remover Gun Cleaning Cloth
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=623952
I always use rubber gloves when using one of these magic cloths. Works great for cleaning the bore and chambers also.
...Jimbo
OP
Nogunsmith4me
Single-Sixer
Unfortunately it's a blued model, can't use those products.
Just give it a good scrubbing with your wife's toothbrush and some Outers. No wife? Use one of your old ones. If that doesn't do the trick I've used some plastic "dental picks" bought from Midway. Every gun owner should have some.
BTW: I'm not married anymore goin' on 18+ years. :wink:
BTW: I'm not married anymore goin' on 18+ years. :wink:
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
Cholo":2wuzc7gu said:
Don't forget to keep the stuff wet with solvent for 15-30 minutes and then scrub with a brush and a tightly woven rag. (like old work shirt).
...Jimbo
OP
Nogunsmith4me
Single-Sixer
Yes, you're right, why bother anymore. I have a blued GP100 so it's not a big deal because the marks or baked carbon on the cylinder blends with the color. I was just wondering if there was a way to remove it.
armabill
Bearcat
You could try bronze wool. It's also good for removing rust on blued guns.
I've come to pretty much the same conclusion with my .22 revolvers. I use Hoppe's to get off what I can and don't worry too much about the slight discoloration. My guns are for shooting, they're not museum pieces.7tcu":n1dzlsyc said:
OP
Nogunsmith4me
Single-Sixer
I clean my MKII SS barrel once a year in white vinegar, put it in for an hour and all the black crap gets removed, it comes out like brand new, good and cheap way to do it but can not do the same to a blued pistol unless you want to turn it into SS :wink:
wixedmords
Blackhawk
I clean the face of my blued cylinders up with Hoppes or Ed's Red along with a good copper brush. But, I don't go crazy. The same thing at the forcing cone.
btrumanj
Single-Sixer
For me, life is just too short to put a lot of effort into cleaning the front of the cylinder 
Nogunsmith4me":lcqcu4c0 said:
Duh... I misunderstood. I thought you were having the "38 Special Blues", the carbon ring you can get in the cylinder when you shoot a lot of 38's, actually making it hard to chamber a 357.
Black cylinder face? On a blued gun? Surprised you can notice it!
That's just character, my friend, character!
Give 'er a lick and a promise and call it a shooter.
(I think some Hoppe's solvent would probably take it off if you worked at it. Easy. Put too much love into it you're liable to end up with a white metal cylinder face.)
-S
Carry_Up
Single-Sixer
Somebody is under the impression that the front face of a cylinder is to remain clean and tidy, which it will do if the gun is never used. Whether blued or stainless the cylinder face will become discolored. Every shot exposes it to burning flames and high pressure. Just wipe it down with the cleaning fluid of your choice and leave it alone. The marks made on a blued gun are not "on top" of your blued finish, the blueing is actually scorched.
I've found the brass bristle brushes work very well for this cleaning chore. Add #9 or other solvent and the soft brass brushes won't damage the finish.
gig
Single-Sixer
Try some gunzilla,,,,let it soak for a while then brush with a mild brush and cloth.
A light coat of gunzilla after each cleaning seems to make the next removal easier.
Some say brake-cleaner aids in cutting the carbon, I've never tried it, don't know what it does to a blued surface.
I have used Rem-oil with success.
A light coat of gunzilla after each cleaning seems to make the next removal easier.
Some say brake-cleaner aids in cutting the carbon, I've never tried it, don't know what it does to a blued surface.
I have used Rem-oil with success.
Carry_Up
Single-Sixer
The bluing does not lie on top of the metal, and the discoloration on the front face of the cylinder does not lie on top of the bluing. Rather, the metal has been discolored by the heat and pressure of escaping gasses. Scrubbing down a blued cylinder will just help to remove the bluing, and the metal will still become scorched after shooting. The same goes for stainless, except that with stainless, you start off with bare metal. Powder deposits come off with a quick wipedown. But if you scrub the cylinder face clean, you are removing metal, and slowly opening up the b/c gap.
Carry_Up
Carry_Up
geneo
Bearcat
I have been using a .204 case to remove the hard carbon, works great. Take the shoulder off with a sander or file. Then ream to sharp edge. Then take the expander ball and enlarge till you get a tight fit. geneo
geneo
