GP100 trigger

[jsh]

Anyone have a link on the does and don'ts of a trigger job on one of these? I figured there would be a sticky some place on a basic trigger work?
Are the springs worth the ? Or fool with the stock ones?
Jeff

 

[Thel]

Here is a link to a do-it-yourself trigger job. It is for a SP101 but the GP100 is similar inside:

http://www.sp101trigger.com/index.html

and here is another:

http://gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/

I think the spring kit with the 9, 10 and 12 lb mainsprings and 8 lb trigger return is a good investment. One can try the various
springs and see what works after doing the trigger job. Each gun is different as to what will work reliably. After doing the job
one could probably drop the double action pull 3 to 5 pounds (stock is about 12). One can also add shims to reduce drag in the
action and get a more consistent pull:

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=133889&amp%3bamp%3bsid=1d0e18092f2e2f272e287b7668cdf372
http://www.triggershims.com/rsa_shims.html

And for future reference some others that may come in handy someday on:

Firing pin protrusion:
http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/9965-quick-question-iowegan-regarding-gp100-firing-pin-protrusion.html
http://www.thesixgunjournal.net/dialing-in-a-fixed-sight-ruger-da-the-repatriated-ruger-gp-100/

Sear engagement theory: http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/9965-quick-question-iowegan-regarding-gp100-firing-pin-protrusion.html

Getting a straight through double action pull if you don't have one: http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/88762-22lr-sp101-trigger-job-question-multiple-threads-2.html

Smoothing the hammer strut: http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/91748-help-smoothing-alaskan-da-pull.html

 

[GP100man]

polish & smooth ,break edges on the strut , but DO NOT change angles of the parts !

10 lb trigger & 12lb hammer for absolute reliability.

Check out michigan outdoors.com for trigger/hammer shims & how to video .

The GP is not a complicated set up , but I do suggest disassembly in a gallon zip loc bag if not familar with the hand & latch plunger/spring.

Don`t pull the trigger with the group out of the frame.

GP

 

[The Blackhawk Kid]

Brownells sells a Wilson Combat spring kit. I just put in an 8 lb trigger return spring, and a 10 lb hammer spring. Go to YouTube and watch the video's. Don't pull the trigger when out of the frame. When you put the trigger assy back in the frame, roll the gun on the top and put the trigger assy in upside down. This helps get the transfer bar to let the trigger group assemble easier. You tube has good video's and they help. Good luck. Don't change any surfaces. Lightly stone burrs off edges of hammer, etc. Hope this helps! BHK

 

[shaffe48]

Here is a link to a do-it-yourself trigger job. It is for a SP101 but the GP100 is similar inside:

http://www.sp101trigger.com/index.html

I followed this guide for my SP and GP (but haven't changed the springs yet for my GP). It seems to have made a difference and my SP is probably similar to an LCR now which is good for a small revolver, though probably not enough of a difference to have a big effect on accuracy. I replaced the springs with 12lb hammer and 8lb return which probably made the biggest difference. Since both guns have been fired extensively, I didn't focus on the polishing or sanding but I would recommend that everyone clean the trigger spring channel with a drill bit. My SP had no issues but my GP had so many burrs I had to yank the spring out with pliers.

I also installed trigger and hammer shims. There's a good chance the hammer shims are going in the garbage when I ever take the gun apart again. One of the great things about the GP/SP is the ease off assembly/disassembly. Well, there's nothing easy about these shims. What's worse, there's a chance you could not line them up so that one is loose in your action which could have disastrous consequences for very marginal returns.

I also bought a 30 oz return spring for my single six. This may have the most noticeable difference of all.

All in all, these directions are good and I would recommend anyone follow them. Just don't expect the world and seriously consider (not using) the hammer shims.

 

[contender]

I will agree that installing shims in an action takes patience & finesse. However, I have installed some of Lance Shivleys shims in a few of my guns, and like what they have done.
Yes, I ruined a set of Blackhawk shims once. I attribute that to my state of mind at the time. (I shouldn't have been working on anything mechanical that day. I had just heard about the loss of a friend, a helicopter pilot in the Cav, in Afganastan.)
But the follow up set went in just fine.
But before adding shims etc, as noted, a simple smoothing of the rough areas, while NOT changing angles will do a LOT for any action.

 

[shaffe48]

Well, I say nothing about Lance Shivly or his shims. As far as hammer shims in general they are worth a try but you would have to weigh the (extremely marginal) benefit against the inconvenience and risk of using them for yourself.

By the way, my SP still does not rival the LCR trigger even after the changes I listed above after further testing. To edit my above post.

 

[Maximumbob54]

What is the "risk" involved with using shims? I thought this would just aid in not having parts drag against one another so bad. I'm waiting on a Wolff spring kit for both my SP101 and GP100 and I have a shim kit for the GP100 that will be going it at the same time.

 

[FlyerTom]

Yeow, tell me about the difficulty of installing shims!
I restored a Stevens 315 double-trigger side-by-side shotgun (circa 1915) recently, and had one miserable time getting the three shims between the triggers back together. It didn't help that the pin hole on one side of the lock was not a push fit. Not a job I want to do again, fer sure.

 

[Thel]

Following the guide and some other tips one can find it is possible to drop a SP101 to 8.4 lbs DA and about 3 single. Using a 9 lb hammer and 8 lb trigger return as in the aforementioned SP in a GP will give a 7.4-7.5 lb DA. Someone claimed that in the SP if one used a 12 lb hammer spring with 3 coils cut it would give a 7 lb DA. One of these days I will try it but am sort of dubious. I do not have a LCR so can't comment on the trigger pull weight although in print I have seen about 10.5 lbs.

 

[shaffe48]

There is no "risk" that I have observed happen. However, I believe it is possible to for the shims to fall out of place when you are putting the pin in. In fact, you can't tell the difference between when the shims are correctly aligned and when the shims are completely away from the hole. If the shims were away from the hole and you thought they were aligned then you could have a shim or two loose in your action which could not help anything. However, I should clarify that this is my surmising what could happen as opposed to anything I observed. I described this in my first post but want to ensure there is no confusion.

The trigger shims you only have to mess with once as long as you don't disassemble the trigger. My main problem is with the hammer shims that need to be removed and replaced every time you disassemble the firearm.

I'm sure you can use lighter springs and if I had a target gun I would do so. I wanted to buy springs that would be certainly reliable since a lighter trigger pull probably won't change me hitting a big close target but the gun not firing will.

As far as the weight I don't have a scale. However, if the gun hasn't been fired or dry fired 5-10,000 times I'd be shocked. All rough edges should be removed and I still did some sanding. I did not change and will not change any of the angles on the sear and what not. New springs (12-8) and shims installed. The trigger is not nearly as light as the LCR I compared it to as was the opinion of the owner of the LCR.

This is the first time I have messed with one of my gun's trigger personally. This was just my takeaway as a novice messing with the revolvers but this is in fact the typical experience level of someone following the instructions. I think they are good and it was worth the nominal cost of the springs/shims but I wouldn't expect the world unless you go to really light springs.

 

[Maximumbob54]

The video showing how to install them says to use a small bit of grease sort of like glue to hold the shims in place when installing them. That at least makes it sound easy enough. I will know as soon as my spring kit gets here as I plan to do both shims and springs at the same time. I plan to use a dab of Tetra grease during the install.