GP100 Trigger Assembly won't lock back onto the frame

[RugerRay]

Ok I need help!! I disassembled my new Ruger GP100 and can't get the trigger assembly to lock back into the frame. What am I doing wrong? The locking spring and plunger is not stuck.

It looks like the trigger assembly is all the way in place to the frame but the plunger won't clear enough to slip in the hole in the frame. Also looks like the trigger is not going all the way back but locks the cylinder in place and rotates the cylinder just fine, without the hammer installed. The hammer won't lock back when installed but remember the trigger assembly won't lock to frame. So trigger can't move freely back and forth, at least not all the way back.

If I am right the hammer will not be able to lock back or go all way back until the plunger is clear of the frame and locked into the hole/slot in the frame. It has to move freely back and forth for the trigger to work.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[RugerRay]

Well it looks like the trigger assembly needs to go forward between 1/16 and 1/8 of an inch , just looking. Must have been a bad fit from the factory. I can see where someone hit hard with a punch to make it lock into place.

I bought it from the original owner and have the paperwork on it so perhaps I can get Ruger to make it right. It says 07-MAR-13-2013 on the shell casing envelope.

Must be a 2007 year gun or 2013 ?? Was told it is a 2013 with 100 rounds through it.

 

[GP100man]

Make sure the front is where it`s supposed to be & the transfer bar (it likes to catch under the cyl release) line up the plunger on the frame . By now the group is in the frame enuff you can push it by hand a bit & it feels like it catches ??

Now .if ya feel certian it`s all in place take a small mallet I use a plastic screwdriver handle & tap it home (1 -2 lite taps usually reseats the most stubbron groups) The plunger must come all the way back to it`s original position or the trigger spring won`t have room & it`ll bind up the trigger on full DA pull & SA hammer movement.

This is fairly common & can be easily remedied , just remove the plunger (look at schematics) & spring/trigger link plunger. Did I mention keep trigger in forward position!! (or other things/springs will launch)

Now take a file or or stone & remove a bit of metal (squarely) remember ya want a bit of interference so go slow & try fit often.

I did this 1 today !

If ya can disassemble the trigger group it`ll make it alot easier , do it in a gallon ziploc bag until ya know which spring comes from where.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

GP100man beat me to it.....
That would be difficult to tell without being able to see it. Make sure the transfer bar and pawl are in their proper positions when installing the trigger group. Don`t force it,no need to create more problems than you already have, if you do have a problem.

 

[RugerRay]

GP100man....

Thanks, I got it together with a little tap on a wood dowel. I still don't like the way the trigger housing fits to the frame as it sticks out past the frame at least 1/16 inch in the rear. The cylinder latch is forward of the cylinder notch center 1/16-1/8 inch. I suppose it will be OK but a bad trigger housing to frame fit as far as I am concerned.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Sometimes the latch can be a little rough. I had to dress one up a little to get it to snap together. A little 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper can help. A rubber mallet is a good tool to use to close it. Be sure the latch is well oiled or it will be really hard to open the next time. You want it to snap together and be 100% secure. Do not wallow out the frame.

 

[GP100man]

If the gap between the trigger group & frame is closed up you`re good ,the trigger group fit at the rear rarely line up & is covered by grips .

Does your GP function OK ? no super stacking of the trigger at the end of a DA cycle ? The plunger seated all the way out into it`s proper place ?

 

[RugerRay]

If the gap between the trigger group & frame is closed up you`re good ,the trigger group fit at the rear rarely line up & is covered by grips .

Does your GP function OK ? no super stacking of the trigger at the end of a DA cycle ? The plunger seated all the way out into it`s proper place ?

The gap between the trigger group and frame look good, just that the rear of the trigger group does go past the frame about .0025.
Everything functions like it should.

One thing that bugs me a little is that the cylinder latch is just a few thousands off center of the cylinder notches, forward. However it functions good and locks up tight.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

The drag line is a little forward of the notches. hmmmmmm. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[RugerRay]

The drag line is a little forward of the notches. hmmmmmm. I wouldn't worry about it.

Yes, cylinder latch not centered in the notch. When locked in place, I can see it is a little forward in the cylinder notch by a few thousandths.
Just seems a little odd to me because the center of the cylinder notch should be the deepest place for the cylinder latch to rest.

I think it is just the way it looks because the drag line looks centered.

So no worry....right? .

 

[GP100man]

There`s no rule of thumb where the cyl latch is supposed to leave the turn line , I just looked a 3 of mine & all 3 are in a different spot on the latch 1 6" is almost on the back 3rd portion !

But they all lock firmly & do not impede operation in any manner.

Here`s a pic showing a trigger group , your original question was about where the group meets the frame correct?? This 1 stiks back .015" or better.