GP100 Cylinder Ejection problem

[jeb45]

This is my first post.

I have a GP100 that was new and I have put about 300 rounds through it. I recently found that when the cylinder is in one position, pushing the crane latch and then pushing the cylinder to eject will be very difficult. This only occurs on the one position. If the revolver is cycled via trigger or hammer to the next position it will then eject the cylinder fine and will operate correctly until we get back to the first cylinder.

I thought it was a lubrication problem initially so I lubricated all moving parts - the crane, the crane latch, the back of the cylinder area, the cylinder stop (for lack of better wording) that slides up and stops the cylinder rotation.

I have tried to look at the parts for variations but there either aren't any or i am an untrained eye. My impression is logically it is a problem with the cylinder not the other parts because it only hangs up in one place.

Thoughts? Anyone have something like this on a revolver? Is this something to take back to Ruger?

 

[Carry_Up]

This symptom is a bit tricky. The bevel on the cylinder latch allows the cylinder to lift out and open. One of the latch grooves is slightly deeper than the others, so only one position is difficult to open. Mark the difficult position and observe where the latch contacts the locking groove. Use some felt marker on the latch to show exactly where the interference is.

This problem can be fixed with a few stokes of a medium stone on the latch. But first be sure you know exactly where the metal needs to be removed (on the bevel). I wouldn't file on the cylinder unless there is an obvious sharp edge or burr on the locking groove.

Carry_Up

 

[jeb45]

okay. Thanks for the info. I am fairly new to guns and not actually skilled enough to do it myself. Is that something i can return it to ruger for or find a gunsmith? Or someone in western PA on here who wants to make a little?

 

[GP100man]

Look on the recoil shield for drag marks, could be a small burr on 1 of the extractor ratchet catching on a hi spot .

Looky here: http://gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/

 

[jeb45]

If i understand the description correctly the recoil shield is the frame portion that houses the firing pin. That area isn't the problem as this problem even happens with no rounds in the cylinder. I looked at it again to be sure but don't see a problem there. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[GP100man]

The part where the extractor ratchet goes. Could be a hi spot with a small burr on the extractor ratchet.

 

[jeb45]

So after some more looking I think there is some wear on the front of the cylinder at that one posigion. Probably from the cylinder touching the barrel. I dont think I see light between them either.

 

[Carry_Up]

First things first. Figure out where the binding is. Use your feeler gauges to measure the b/c gap. It is unlikely that a tight b/c gap will make the cylinder hard to open at just one spot. Ditto the recoil shield. Both these things may need attention, but I am just going on your description of the problem. It should be easy to see the latch binding. You could use a tooth pick to slightly depress the latch and relieve any binding. Then you will know more about what is causing the problem.

-Carry_Up

 

[GP100man]

Guess What ! this 1 does the same thing !! . Finished cleaning the trigger works on this 1 & went thru a few dry practices with it when the cyl. would`nt roll out the frame , HHhhmmm!

Just as described in the first post .



Stay tuned .

 

[Carry_Up]

I assume you mean that the cylinder is hard to open at just one position? If it is hard to open at any position then you have a different problem. Normally the SP is more prone to difficult opening because the crane radius is smaller. The cylinder has to lift up and off of the cylinder lock. That is why the cylinder lock has a bevel.

Which is it? Difficult to open in any position, or difficult to open in only one position?

 

[Jimbo357mag]

So after some more looking I think there is some wear on the front of the cylinder at that one posigion. Probably from the cylinder touching the barrel. I dont think I see light between them either.

That could be a problem. With the cylinder closed and the gun empty pull the hammer back some until the cylinder latch drops and then turn the cylinder and see it the cylinder is binding on the barrel. Might be the cylinder has a wobble to it. Also check the B/C gap at all firing positions. :shock: