I am curious , HAs anyone ever shortened the hammmer return spring on a GP-100 in a attempt to lighten the single action trigger? Not talkin a lot but just 1-2 coils ? I know I can get a wolf spring kit and I will but , I was wanting to shoot in a bullseye shoot this weeknd and would really like to have the SA alittle lighter.....Cutting coils is something thats be done by many a 1911 shooter and I ve done it myself a time or 2 ...but I never tryed it on a wheel gun...so thought I would ask ....Ive got the trigger down to about 4ish I would guess just by doin alittle polishing and very light stoning so if I can get it down another Lb I'd be good for this wkend.....and usally 1-2 coils will do it.....10x out.
Gp-100 trigger.
- Thread starter 10X
- Start date
Lefty SRH
Blackhawk
I didn't cut mine, jusat changed them out. Where do you live?
Tellico
Buckeye
http://triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.html Shims and springs.
Lefty SRH
Blackhawk
10X said:
Nothing against the maker, but I didn't notice any major difference after I installed it....Spring kit will make the biggest difference.
Lefty,
I dont bellieve the shims will reduce weight enuf to feel really.....maybe a couple oz's if that.....but it does take away some of the slop....which does make things feel smoother....I shimmed the trigger's in both my MKIII bullseye guns and while it didnt change the pull weight ..it did make things feel alot more refined and consistant...either way I will shim the gp and do a spring kit here soon......how did you go about mearcuring your throats? I dont believe I have any issues as I can push a 148gr Horniday HBWC thru the throat from the front with finger pressure.....but I may just hone them 358 just for the fact that it will true them up and they should all be closer to the same. and do a 11 degree forceing cone......lets see 150.00ish for the forceing cone tool and 130 for the cylinder reamer set...280 bucke for just one gun.....Ouch!!....hopeful when I'm done i can re sell the tools and get 75% of my cash back.....10X out....for the night.
I dont bellieve the shims will reduce weight enuf to feel really.....maybe a couple oz's if that.....but it does take away some of the slop....which does make things feel smoother....I shimmed the trigger's in both my MKIII bullseye guns and while it didnt change the pull weight ..it did make things feel alot more refined and consistant...either way I will shim the gp and do a spring kit here soon......how did you go about mearcuring your throats? I dont believe I have any issues as I can push a 148gr Horniday HBWC thru the throat from the front with finger pressure.....but I may just hone them 358 just for the fact that it will true them up and they should all be closer to the same. and do a 11 degree forceing cone......lets see 150.00ish for the forceing cone tool and 130 for the cylinder reamer set...280 bucke for just one gun.....Ouch!!....hopeful when I'm done i can re sell the tools and get 75% of my cash back.....10X out....for the night.
Lefty SRH
Blackhawk
I've always measured throats with gauge pins. I'm sure theres another way but to me this is the easiest as I have a full set at work.
woodsy
Buckeye
10X,
You can get individual pins from McMaster-Carr, a wonderful company.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pin-gauges/=iaisv0
Once you start browsing their catalog, though, don't forget to come up for air once or twice.
You can get individual pins from McMaster-Carr, a wonderful company.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pin-gauges/=iaisv0
Once you start browsing their catalog, though, don't forget to come up for air once or twice.
GP100man
Buckeye
The shim kit from Lance will make a big difference, ya have to have a trigger pull scale to see it , ya finger can`t "feel"every ounce of reduction .
The shim kit makes the trigger pull in both DA/SA more consistent & stops hammer drag on the frame (scratches on the side of the hammer ,that`s where it`s been draggin ,energy wasted on the frame drag that could be put to use poppin a primer)the less kenetic energy wasted the liter ya can go with the hammer spring, so see how it all works togethr ???
The biggest difference will be noticed when ya deburr the hammer strut&stirrup(round over & polish the edges that come in contact with the spring & the stirrup slot it goes thru) & polish the well for the trigger return/trigger frame latch spring, a 13/64 drill bit turned backwards/fine lappin compound/FLITZ will polish it up in short order !
I turn the bit backwards & use a cordless drill turning slow , remember you`re polishing ,not removing metal so according to the tool of the day ya may just need to start with the FLITZ.
Here`s a pic notice my homemade shims vs. Lances , Much GOODER !!
The shim kit makes the trigger pull in both DA/SA more consistent & stops hammer drag on the frame (scratches on the side of the hammer ,that`s where it`s been draggin ,energy wasted on the frame drag that could be put to use poppin a primer)the less kenetic energy wasted the liter ya can go with the hammer spring, so see how it all works togethr ???
The biggest difference will be noticed when ya deburr the hammer strut&stirrup(round over & polish the edges that come in contact with the spring & the stirrup slot it goes thru) & polish the well for the trigger return/trigger frame latch spring, a 13/64 drill bit turned backwards/fine lappin compound/FLITZ will polish it up in short order !
I turn the bit backwards & use a cordless drill turning slow , remember you`re polishing ,not removing metal so according to the tool of the day ya may just need to start with the FLITZ.
Here`s a pic notice my homemade shims vs. Lances , Much GOODER !!
