Gas check question.

[crow#2]

I'm sure I cannot go a bullet that's not made for Gc,s
So instead of buying some unnecessary equipment. Could I get a list of what I actually need in order to reload GC, bullets. I just don't want to spend alot and learn to many new things. I could just shoot plain flat based bullets hard cast and keep the velocity down but a gc and a decent velocity would be nice. I've got plenty of lead bullets but not with gc,s.

 

[crow#2]

I would like to shoot what I got but not sohigh velocity to lead the rifling up. I done that 30 yrs ago with a super red hawk. Man it shot amazing groups.i remember though of getting alot I mean alot of long lead slivers out of that gun. Finally got it clean. Sure don't want my 336 getting lead fouling in barrel

 

[Mobuck]

Have you considered plated bullets? They will work @ hot lead bullet velocities w/o leading worries and a bit cheaper than jacketed bullets.

 

[jgt]

If you size the bullets at a thousandth or so larger than barrel groove diameter you would be surprised at how high a velocity they can be fired without leading the barrel. Then there is the afore mentioned plating or even powder coating.
I never had any special tool for installing my gas checks. I just pushed/snapped them on the base of the bullet as best as I could then ran the bullet through the sizer die the same as one without a gas check. It always swaged the check onto the proper place made for it. Since gas checks got so expensive, I do have a one-step gas check making die to produce them at home now.

 

[Johnnu2]

I've never used gas checks.... just too lazy to spend the time learning about them, and buy the equipment... I use a Lewis Lead remover to get the really bad stuff out. MANY years later, I've learned about Berry's Plated bullets..........they are truly AMAZING for a simple person like myself.
J.

 

[JCK]

A very good way, and not terribly expensive is the Lee sizer dies for a conventional loading press. Also, you can use the Lee Liquid Alox to tumble lube the bullets. Or, you can buy some powder coating powder, and use a toaster oven and some no-stick aluminum foil to bake on the powder (necessary) . You'll also need some Tupperware containers, and some Airsoft plastic pellets to swirl the bullets in to apply the powder. (Static created in the powder causes it to adhere to the bullets).
With the Lee dies, you start the gascheck on the base of the bullet, then push it through the die. It seats the gascheck and crimps it on as it passes through the die.
There are numerous videos on YouTube and Lee has instructional videos linked to their website.
No need for a dedicated lubrisizer like the Lyman #450 with specific dies.

I suggest you go to castboolits.com. Abundant cast bullets information.
Also check out Lees website.

 

[Johnnu2]

JCK....... THANKS for that info.... it turns out that I have quiet a few Lee bullet sizer dies and use them when needing to re-size manufactured bullets....... NOW I KNOW they will afix gas checks........
Thanks again,
J.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Go here for your gas checks. It will save you a bunch. I use a lee push through sizer to do mine as well and then lube with Lee alox.

https://www.sagesoutdoors.com/gas-checks/

 

[Rich/KY]

Ditto on Sage checks. If you are already sizing and lubing you don't need any special equipment for gas checks.

 

[308 Scout]

Shooting lead bullets in a Marlin 336 with their Micro-Groove rifling is a subject unto itself. The Cast Boolit website would be a great place to learn more.

 

[Professor]

Powder coat. I can run relatively soft lead at 850- 1200 all day no gc, no leading in 45 colt. Others do same with all kinds of higher pressure cartridges.

 

[Hankus]

I'm waiting to get enough wheel weights built up then I plan to get a Lee smelter, mold, and .452 sizing die and maybe a Lee single stage press (only $60 on Amazon right now) to go with my Loadmaster. I have a toaster oven from Goodwill ($10) already, some powder from Harbor Freight, and picked up a box of 1000 gas checks for $5 at a recent show.

 

[contender]

Hankus,, casting is a whole different level of enjoyment, (and sometimes frustration) in shooting.

You sound like you are trying to get in at a low end expense level, and that's just fine. I too started that way many decades ago. But I want to offer a little tip. You mentioned Harbor Freight powder. Certain colors from them,, well, don't adhere to the lead as good. Usually the red is just fine,, but other colors seem to be more problematic.
I'd look into a different brand of powder.

But back to the OP & the gas check issue.
I shoot a LOT of cast lead bullets. In fact it's become my primary type of bullet for about a decade or so.

But to use a GC & all, and with the main worry being leading the barrel is the wrong approach. Many, many good cast bullets when properly cast from a good alloy mix,, combined with a good lube OR especially powder coating don't lead a barrel. The trick is to match the diameter of the bullet with the slugged bore sample, proper throats, and the alloy mix. It's NOT just one thing that can cause leading.
Yes,, too soft an alloy and higher velocities can lead.
Yes,, harder alloys can lead even at low or very high velocities.

Powder coating has given casters a much broader "forgiveness" range of velocities,, and alloy mix than anything else in a LONG time.
Most of my cast bullets are of the type WITHOUT a gas check. And I get lower & higher velocities w/o issues of leading. I make sure I slug my bores to find the correct diameter,, then mate a sizer to that bore. And by powder coating,, I get an extra layer of anti-leading protection.
And my alloy mix has been easier to mate up as well.
Why?
Well, when we bake on our powder coating,, we are also actually "annealing" (softening) the bullet a bit. Now,, if we want the bullets to stay harder,, we water quench then while they are hot.
Lots of ways to achieve a good quality bullet AND not get leading.

 

[Mobuck]

Casting bullets. I started down that path and then took a wrong turn somewhere. Maybe have to retrace my steps and try again. No shortage of raw material though. Back when the printing industry was going belly up, I had the $$ to spend and laid in a 3x lifetime supply of printer's alloy at what would now be considered outright thievery prices.
I'll still be shooting bullets when everyone else is throwing rocks.

 

[contender]

If you have printers linotype,, you'll need some pure lead to mix with it! Good stuff to have though.

Casting can be wonderful, or as mentioned,, frustrating.

I can recall decades ago,, NOT paying attention to my alloy mix. To NOT slugging a barrel. To NOT checking the throats. To NOT understanding the real relationship between velocity, alloy, and fit.
Throw in casting at too cool of a temp. Or putting sprues back in as I cut them off. Or heck, just bad habits that I didn't know were bad habits.
Wrinkled bullets. Leading. Poor accuracy. All were experienced.

 

[Mobuck]

Everything from new lead pipe/casing/sheet lead to old type wheel balancing weights to actual lino-type to pre-mixed (85/15?)

 

[Paul B]

I'm not sure just what equipment the OP has which make is difficult offering advice, If he has a luber-sizer tool, Lyman make a small gadget you can use with the luber-sizer to for all practical purposes perfectly seat gas checks every time. I've used one for years. Don't know what they run now but IIRC they were about $5.00 when I got mine.

On bullet size, I can relate a story from one day at the range. At one time I had two Marlin 335 rifles in 30-30, one a standard version and the other a Texan. At the range was another fellow who was also shooting cast bullets in his 336. When it was time to check targets I had nice 2" and 2.5" groups while his were scattered all over the place and the lead in his barrel made it almost into a smoothbore.

I pulled out the cleanin rod, patches and solvent and we cleaned his barrel back to no lead showing. I asked wat bullet he was using and he showed my a cartridge with the Lyman number 311291, a bullet designed for the 30-06 back in IIRC 1905. Nominally 75 gr with a round nose it has proven to be a top bullet for use in the 30-30 and in fact is my first choice for that cartridge although my mold is marked 308291 and stamped Ideal on the side. I size the bullet to .310" for use in all my .30 caliber rifles. and shoots well in all of them at 30-30 level velocity. For what has worked for best accuracy for me it I stick the nose of a bullet into the muzzle. If it's tight enough to be slightly engraved by the rifling or is tight enough that there is no wobble then it shoot shoot accurately. Bullets that wobble usually don't shoot worth spit.

On alloys, mine is a bit complicated but casts a basic bullet to 11 on the BHN scale. I have shot that 311291 bullet to full 30-30 speed although accuracy it slightly better at 1950 FPS which comes quite close to the original velocity from a carbine. That alloy can be water dropped for about 9 BHN and treated in a toaster over for four or more hours at about 400 degrees, then water dropped for a final BHN of 30-31.
Paul B.