Frustrated semi-auto Noob with an SR40c problem/question.

[DukeMinski]

This is the 2nd time I've had the SR40c at the range and experienced several jams/misfeeds and FTF's.
Using Fiocchi 170gr FMJ and Winchester white box 165gr FMJ.
Used maybe 15 rounds out of each box and had 3 or 4 misfeeds and 3 or 4 FTF's (light strikes, primers were dimpled) on both brands of ammo.
Also, after inserting a loaded magazine, had several instances where the weapon wound not go fully into battery. Slide would go about half-way forward and the round would "bind up" going into the chamber.
Spent more time clearing the weapon than I did actually shooting the weapon.

Switched to my Sig P250c and put 50 rounds of 9mm thru it with no problems.
Getting frustrated with the SR40c.

What gives?
Bad ammo?
Dirty weapon?
Operator error?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Cheesewhiz]

This is the 2nd time I've had the SR40c at the range and experienced several jams/misfeeds and FTF's.
Using Fiocchi 170gr FMJ and Winchester white box 165gr FMJ.
Used maybe 15 rounds out of each box and had 3 or 4 misfeeds and 3 or 4 FTF's (light strikes, primers were dimpled) on both brands of ammo.
Also, after inserting a loaded magazine, had several instances where the weapon wound not go fully into battery. Slide would go about half-way forward and the round would "bind up" going into the chamber.
Spent more time clearing the weapon than I did actually shooting the weapon.

Switched to my Sig P250c and put 50 rounds of 9mm thru it with no problems.
Getting frustrated with the SR40c.

What gives?
Bad ammo?
Dirty weapon?
Operator error?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

I would give it one more try but have someone else with a good amount of experience also shoot it, not saying anything but another's opinion is most often a good thing.
If it doesn't work right after that, give Ruger a call.

 

[DukeMinski]

Cheesewhiz;
Thanks for the input. I don't pretend to know much about semi-auto's.
Did all my learnin' on revolvers.
There are a couple of LGS's in the area that have gunsmiths on staff.
May take it to one of them & let them check it out.
Thanks again.

 

[Cheesewhiz]

I just would look for a range rat first and ask for some help, they don't bite and normally are more than willing to try to pump 10 rounds of your ammo down range. I help guys and girls all the time, it makes me feel good.

 

[jprit]

You might try polishing the feed ramp. My SR9C had similar issues, and hand polishing with a Meguiars metal polish remedied the problem. The SR9C came from factory with miniscule machine marks on feed ramp. A little elbow grease did the job, no need to use a dremel or other mechanical assist. Be sure there is no polish residue in chamber/barrel before firing.

 

[DukeMinski]

***UPDATE***
I posted the same question on another gun forum & one of the members suggested checking the extractor.
The idea being that maybe the base of the cartridge was hanging on the extractor claw as the round was fed up by the mag.
Here's my reply to him after checking the extractor...

-username-;
1) Disassembled weapon per your instructions and checked extractor resistance.
Slight upward pressure on the round will slide it up the breech face & under the extractor claw. No undue pressure required.
Tried the same thing with my P250c and they feel about the same.

2) Reassembled weapon and loaded all 3 mag's with the Winchester 165gr FMJ's.

3) With the slide forward, inserted a mag, slapped it on the bottom to make sure it was seated properly.

4) Racked slide to load a round and first round jammed half-way into breech.

5) Looking more closely I noticed the firing pin is protruding out of the breech face. It appears the rim of the cartridge is caught against the firing pin.

6) Cleared the weapon, racked the slide in order to cock the striker, and let the slide forward (with the striker still cocked).

7) Inserted a mag, racked the slide, and it fed the round without a problem.

8) Repeated step #7 with all 3 mags and all 3 fed just fine.

9) Cleared the weapon, dry fired the weapon, and repeated step #3.

10) Steps #4 and #5 occurred again.

Is the firing pin supposed to protrude from the breech face after firing?
Could it be a malfunctioning striker spring?

Another possibility is a user/maintenance error.
Last time I cleared it I removed the striker, cleaned it & the striker bore, lubricated (lightly) with gun oil and re-assembled.
Could it be that I damaged the striker spring during clearing?
Used a cleaning rod with a .22 patch to clean the striker bore.
Could it be that I just pushed the gunk/dirt further down into the striker bore, causing it to hang?

Over on that forum, suggestions are . . .
a) worn out striker spring, or
b) I over lubricated the striker/striker bore (or didn't clean it well enough and then over-lubricated).

What do you guys think???

 

[websterz]

I cured my light strike problem by polishing my striker body with Mother's Mag Polish. The larger diameter areas on the striker body are bearing surfaces where it rides inside the striker channel. Polishing them to a mirror finish reduces drag. I then used long cotton swabs and compressed air to clean the extractor channel. Thoroughly cleaned and polished the striker area requires no lubrication, and in fact is best left clean and dry.

 

[Cheesewhiz]

I guess you could have turned your striker into a hydraulic cylinder with oil being trapped in there.

I never lube strikers, mine all have plastic bearing cups that don't need to be lubed and I wouldn't lube it's channel either. I do use a little Hornady cleaner/light silicone spray, One Shot for areas like this.

My SR9's striker does not stick out beyond the breach face, how are you seeing it after it is fired? Pulling the slide back even just a little resets it (cocks it).

 

[Leucoandro]

Have you tried cleaning your striker channel, making sure to clean it of any debris? When I first bought my SR9c had some grease in the striker channel. One of my rounds ruptured a primer and put enough debris in the striker channel to cause similar issues.


Charlie

 

[pjvrefugee]

firm grip, locked wrist. do not let your wrist act as a shock absorber. revolver is more forgiving, press trigger, go bang, next shot ready. the slide on your 40c needs to work back and forth all the way. also make sure your weapon has nothing in the striker channel except the striker. no grease no oil and no debris. lightly lube pistol, too much will attract dirt and foul the action. sling shot the slide when chambering a round. do not let it move slowly. short action pistols need certain fundamentals more so than full size weapons. they can be some what fussy but likely your 40c will not be. mine is a peach. I did do a small amount of polishing on the feed ramp and in the chamber but not really much and only because I like to tinker. it is a heck of a good shooter! I predict you will love little girl as much as I love mine. perhaps the most impressive thing is the accuracy.

 

[DukeMinski]

pjv;
Thank you for the reminder not to limp-wrist the SR40c.
Each time I shoot it I am concentrating on a good solid stance with a firm grip.
And in my own defense, I have not had any problems like these with the Sig P250c.

Everyone;
I appreciate the suggestions and input.
Unfortunately work is really busy this week & I may not get back to the range until the week-end.
In the meantime, I will remove & clean the striker/striker bore.
I'll give an update as soon as I can.

 

[DukeMinski]

Cheesewhiz;
You're correct, when I action the slide it cocks the striker.
Inserting a mag at that point and racking the slide with even moderate aggresiveness (see pjv's comment about " ...sling shot the slide... ") will feed a round every time...as long as the striker is cocked first.
It's when I haven't cocked the striker that the rim of the case catches the firing pin.
When I clear the weapon, drop the striker, and then s-l-o-w-l-y ease the slide back just enough to look into the breach (maybe not even 1/4") I can see the firing pin protruding from the breach face.
I can ease the slide all the way back and the firing pin still sticks out of the breech face. Easing the slide forward, it feels like the the striker finally cocks just before the breeches closes (maybe the last 1/2" to 1/4" of forward movement).
Spent the last 20 minutes loading mags into the decocked pistol and racking the slide, aggresively, and it hangs up every time.

 

[Cheesewhiz]

Duke when is the trigger resetting? Is it resetting after the slide is pulled back just a bit or not until it starts going forward from the fully open position?

... and please stop cycling live rounds through this gun, that's how accidents happen.

 

[DukeMinski]

Cheese;
Ok, striker has been removed and cleaned with spray solvent to remove lubricant. Striker bore also cleaned out with spray solvent.
Both dried using a can of compressed air.
Both are as clean & dry as I can get them.

Trigger reset test...
a) Weapon is cleared, no mag, empty chamber, striker is dropped.
b) Right index finger on the trigger (lightly, just to feel any movement in the trigger).
c) Ease the slide back slowly with the left hand.
d) Slide goes all the back, as far as it will go, no trigger reset.
e) Start easing the slide forward.
f) Slide is almost all the way forward.
g) Feel the trigger reset with maybe 1/8" before breech fully closed.

Should the trigger reset before that point?

 

[Cheesewhiz]

It sounds like that it is working as it should. Now short cycle it, no rounds please, just pull it back a quarter inch or so and let it go forward and it should also reset. if it hangs up that could be an issue, it should always go forward without a round coming from a magazine.

 

[DukeMinski]

Yes, trigger resets after a short cycle.

 

[Cheesewhiz]

Yes, trigger resets after a short cycle.

Your trigger group and the reset of it seem fine. There is a possibility that if your striker is really dragging on the back of the casings there may be a timing issue within the gun and it should go back to Ruger for that. There is also the possibility that the gun is short cycling a bit and that is causing this. It could be a "limp wrist", I hate those words because that actually could be caused by other things and not the shooter per se and just breaking in the gun may solve this. I would again say that getting somebody that really has shot some guns in his life to take some shots with it should eliminate all doubt.

 

[modrifle3]

If under the 2 year mark, I always recommend sending the gun back to Ruger. It is free and it will be fixed. It isn't like a gun with no warrantee or one you have to pay to fix.

I am kinda up in the air about taking a Ruger to a gunsmith, because frankly Ruger service is free and so good that there are few that even know what to do with one. It isn't like 10/22s, Revolvers or Mark pistols that have a huge following in the aftermarket world. And if fixable, at most you will usually pay is $30 for shipping.

 

[freedomcosts]

I had to stop using Win. White Box. I was having light strikes, and misfeeds- sent to Ruger, it worked great- except with WWB. Mine fires everything, steel case, cheapest stuff I can find- have fored at least 6 kinds of JHPs and no problems- but WWB sometimes won't shoot. Before going too far, I'd try some dofferent ammo, too. Seems over the last few years, many of us had trouble with that WWB.

 

[DukeMinski]

Guys;
Thanks for the feedback.
Sorry I can't respond in a more timely manner but with work and other stuff, sometimes I just can't get to the forum every day.

Cheese; Thanks for the advice. please keep it coming.

Mod & Freedom;
Thanks for joining the thread, appreciate the input.
What brands of ammo have you used that seem to give the best results?

 

[DukeMinski]

OK…here’s an update.
Bought two more boxes of ammo…
1) Federal Personal Defense (blue box) 180gr JHP,
2) Remington HTP (green & yellow box) 155gr JHP.
Went to the range yesterday and followed this procedure…
*With an empty/cleared weapon, racked the slide to cock the striker.
*Returned slide to the forward position.
*Inserted a magazine loaded with 5 rounds.
*Racked slide to chamber round.
*Fired the weapon.
*Repeated the process, rotating thru 3 different magazines (two 15-round mags and a 10-round), 5 rounds each time.
I tested all four brands of ammo using this procedure and here are the results:
Federal Personal Defense (blue box) 180gr JHP = fired 20 rounds. Had no FTF/light strikes –and- no feed errors/jams.
Remington HTP (green & yellow box) 155gr JHP = fired 20 rounds. Had one FTF/light strike (dimpled the primer) –and- no feed errors/jams.
Winchester white box 165gr FMJ = fired 10 rounds. Had two FTF/light strikes (dimpled the primers) –and- no feed errors/jams.
Fiocchi 170gr FMJ = fired 10 rounds. Had three FTF/light strikes (dimpled the primers) –and- two feed errors/jams on the first mag. Tried the 2nd mag and got similar results. Two or three FTF’s along with two or three jams on the 2nd mag.

My conclusions:
1) May have a mechanical issue with the gun resulting in light-strikes. Will reach out to local resources for further testing to confirm.
2) I definitely have operator error-type issues (probably error code “iD10t” ) with this gun. At this time, I am just not comfortable/competent enough with this weapon to shoot it on a regular basis.
3) My revolvers and Sig P250c have spoiled me rotten.

Sorry for the long post.
I’m tired of dealing with this thing, so I may step away from the thread for a few days.

Thank you, everyone, for your patience and assistance.

 

[diablos30]

have you removed the magazine disconnect? i bought my sr when they first came out and was having some light strike issues, as soon as i removed the mag disconnect the issue disappeared. never had any feed issues, but i did have some extractor problems which turned out to be a sr9 extract got put in some of the early guns. once i swapped it for the correct part this pistol has been dead reliable.

 

[freedomcosts]

One quick suggestion I always make- if you want it worked on, and since you have other handguns, send this one to Ruger. It has happened that a gun was fixed, still wouldn't work, other problems develop- so I always recommend sending it to Ruger. Then if serious issues develop later, Ruger has a record- and they can't say (which I don't think they would!) the other g'smith caused it.

 

[modrifle3]

send this one to Ruger.

Excellent advice. In the time it's taken for this thread to evolve, the gun could have already been to Prescott, repaired properly, and returned; free.

Worked with my LC9 that way.

I agree trying to resolve major function issues with a new Ruger is not worth the trouble. Ruger has the best repair service in the business with the ability to change every part in the gun. Don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with learning to work on guns...just with Rugers there is little we can do with out the ability to direct purchase certain parts.

 

[DukeMinski]

Guys, thanks for the advice.
I will take all suggestions into consideration & provide updates as the situation develops.

 

[Rei40c]

send this one to Ruger.

Excellent advice. In the time it's taken for this thread to evolve, the gun could have already been to Prescott, repaired properly, and returned; free.

Worked with my LC9 that way.

Seconded, I applaud your determination but it's time for it to fly back to the mother ship. :lol: I'm about as far away from Prescott as it is physically possible to be (east coast) and still be inside the US and it only took mine 9 days to go and return fixed.

 

[pjvrefugee]

if you have access to a dremel try polishing the feed ramp and the chamber. I have had pistols (XDs .45 3.3 is one of them) that required this treatment. afterward feed and function was perfect. might just save you the headache of a return to the mothership.

 

[DukeMinski]

UPDATE: Local gunsmith has the weapon. Having him check it & determine the real problem. Will check back with him this week.

Thanks again for the comments/suggestions.
I appreciate everyones' assistance.

 

[modrifle3]

if you have access to a dremel try polishing the feed ramp and the chamber. I have had pistols (XDs .45 3.3 is one of them) that required this treatment. afterward feed and function was perfect. might just save you the headache of a return to the mothership.

You might want to clarify that polish means with buffing compound not a sanding drum or stone.

I still maintain that it should go back to Ruger. I believe new guns should work and why pay a gunsmith to look at it.

 

[Mike J]

if you have access to a dremel try polishing the feed ramp and the chamber. I have had pistols (XDs .45 3.3 is one of them) that required this treatment. afterward feed and function was perfect. might just save you the headache of a return to the mothership.

You might want to clarify that polish means with buffing compound not a sanding drum or stone.

I still maintain that it should go back to Ruger. I believe new guns should work and why pay a gunsmith to look at it.

I agree with this. You should give Ruger the opportunity to correct whatever is wrong. They have a really good reputation for customer service so why not let them have a crack at it.