Forcing cone problem?

[Anonymous]

Howdy, new guy here. I need some help. I tried to do a search, but I guess I didn't find the right key words to get the answer I need.

I recently bought one of the new Flat top .44 Specials. It had problems. Mainly shooting bad low and left. Sent it back to Ruger and they fixed it. Shoots to point of aim now.
But a new problem has come up. It don't like lead bullets. With jacketed bullets its a tack driver, couldn't hope for better. Lead bullets group about 4" at 25 yards. If you can call it a group. The vast majority of my shooting is done with lead bullets. So this is unacceptable.
As I understand it, Ruger's 5 degree forcing cone is known to cause just this sort of problem and recutting it can cure it. I also seriously doubt if Ruger will open it up for me under warranty.
I do have the tools and can do the job myself. But before I cut this thing, I need some info from those who know.
Has anyone here ever done this and how did it work out?
Should I go with 11 degrees or 18?
Will it affect how it performs with jacketed bullets?
Any information will be both helpful and appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Hammerdown77]

Howdy and welcome to the forum.

I recently bought a .44 flat top as well. Mine, box stock, will shoot a 250 grain lead Keith bullet over 7.5 grains of Unique into 1.75" at 25 yards. However, the barrel leads up pretty fast and the accuracy goes downhill. Clean the lead out, and it's a tack driver again.

My bullets are sized at .430". I have not slugged my barrel yet, so I don't know whether that is the right size or not.

What kind of lead bullets are you using, and what size are they (weight and dia.)? What kind of powder are you using and how much?

I doubt the forcing cone is having as much effect as you think it is.

BTW, 11 degrees is usually what people cut the forcing cone to. It works well for both jacketed and lead, especially semi-wadcutters. Bottom liine, you shouldn't hurt the accuracy by cutting the forcing cone, and might improve it a bit.