Fitting Redhawk Pawl (Hand)

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71firebird400

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
14
Hello,

I have a Redhawk that "binds" up on two of the chambers; it is very evident during double action firing. If you open the cylinder and cycle the action the binding completely goes away. Additionally, I've pulled out the transfer bar and cycled the gun, but the bind remains. Thus, I believe I've narrowed the binding to the pawl (hand) and how it is interfacing with the cylinder ratchet. Does anyone have a write up of how to fit the hand to the gun? I plan on purchasing a new hand from Midway and giving it a shot- if that doesn't work I suppose I'll have to send it to Ruger. Would appreciate any advice anyone can give on the subject; let me know if I am doomed for failure!
 

GP100man

Buckeye
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,386
Location
Tabor City, NC.
Look at the ratchets on the extractor very closely , there`s 6 of em & 1 pawl .

I feel if it were the pawl it`d do it on all 6 ??

Replce the pawl as is to start , just make sure it does`nt stik out enuff to catch the cyl & the nose fits the ratchets. look at the existing 1 .
 

Jimbo357mag

Hawkeye
Joined
Feb 22, 2007
Messages
10,350
Location
So. Florida
I had to dress the ratchet on a new SP-101 because of a slight binding issue. When I looked closely there were two flats that were not at exactly the right angle. A small flat file did the trick in my case. Also make sure there is nothing behind the extractor like carbon build up or a powder particle.

You can replace the pawl cheaply and pretty easily and save a trip to Ruger maybe. :D
 

71firebird400

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
14
I've checked over the ratchet and don't see anything; additionally I cleaned the gun as well as I could and still the binding persists. The new pawl is on it's way, so hopefully I can screw around with it and see if I can make something happen. I have fit hammers/triggers to my S&W's and even stretched a hand on a Python once so this won't be the first time I attempt something I probably shouldn't. Are there any manuals/instructions on how to properly fit a pawl to the Ruger action?
 

Jimbo357mag

Hawkeye
Joined
Feb 22, 2007
Messages
10,350
Location
So. Florida
I am not a gunsmith and maybe one will come along and give you some other advise but I know you can file the tooth shorter on the pawl if the cylinder rotation starts before the latch drops out (jams) and that it needs to be lengthened if it doesn't turn the cylinder all the way to where the latch engages the cylinder notch (lock-up). Filing and shortening the tooth on the pawl is easy but to lengthen one you have to use a hammer and punch on the shaft, not so easy. Let's hope you get one 'just right' or a little long.

btw As stated before the pawl works all six teeth on the ratchet the same. Look carefully and see if the pawl is pushing on the ratchet, trying to turn the cylinder, before the latch drops out of the cylinder.

Is this a new gun or used and new to you or has this problem developed over time. I suspect maybe somebody already replaced the pawl and it is slightly long on those two ratchet teeth and might require only a little filing on the pawl tooth or ratchet teeth.
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
Does the gun bind up at the start of the double action cycle or the end?

As pointed out in an earlier response, if 4 out of 6 are working proper, the pads on the ratchet giving you the problem are the point you want to adjust
 

71firebird400

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
14
Forgive my brevity, I am typing this from my phone. The double action has its bind towards the end of the stroke, just before the cylinder locks into place. This problem has always existed but gotten worse over time. Half the reason I ordered the new pawl is so that I can monkey around with the new one and know that, worst case scenario, I can throw the old one back in and still have a 'working' gun. I am very hesitant to do anything to the cylinder ratchet as I'm sure its a big job to replace one of those if I ruin it.
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
I'd tear the firearm down and inspect the trigger and hammer.

I would think that if it were the hand, the jam would occur after the cylinder locks in place. With the cylinder stop still down, what would jam the action? The hand should continue pushing the ratchet around the cylinder pin as the cylinder is still free to move. On the other hand, ( no pun intended) the trigger is just getting to the end of it's travel to release and drop the hammer.
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
Had some more thoughts on this. Check the barrel/cylinder gap. The hand could be pushing it far enough forward that it could be rubbing these together causing your drag..
 

71firebird400

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
14
Precision32- Checked the barrel/cylinder gap; cylinder rotates perfectly in the frame.

I ended up sending the gun to Ruger last Thursday; it arrived to them on Friday. I got an email yesterday (Wednesday) that it was on it's way back to me; at no charge. Wow! Ruger customer service is unbelievable.
 

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