Fitting cylinders.
- Thread starter Jbrown75
- Start date
Sure. But it depends on who the "oneself" is! As long as you have the mechanical skills and know-how and realize "all" the requirements that are involved, in other words, the geometry required for all the parts to fit and interact properly with one another, (hammer, pawl, trigger, ratchet, cylinder latch, headspace, end shake, base pin, accompanying springs & plungers, etc. etc.). It can be very easy (if everything falls into place) or it can be extremely difficult and turn into a "can-of-worms"! If "you" don't have all this together, then I would strongly recommend you take it to a local "competent" gunsmith for fitting......................Dick :wink:
I've managed to keep my small pile working for a few years, but have never attempted something quite this involved. And unfortunately there aren't any smiths in my neck of the woods 
Looks like I'll try my hand and if it gets too far beyond me then the idea gets the shelf.
Looks like I'll try my hand and if it gets too far beyond me then the idea gets the shelf.flatgate
Hawkeye
www.gunbooks.com
Worth every penny!!!!!
flatgate
Worth every penny!!!!!
flatgate
jbrown, its one of those things that 'either it works ,or NOT, its the NOT that can be dangerous and get one hurt or worse......but that being said, many of try to be of help but cannot "see" through this damn screen......many times you "hear " folks say piece of cake, not a problem and yes, there are times when you will find it just 'drops in" that being the fitting of the cylinder from a " like, vintage" gun, allows this to happen, and being "used" ( fitted" just may about drop in or at least need a bit of "final fitting") BUT, it is incumbant upon us that do KNOW , and realize that "$hit happens" must tell you and remind you that is NOT always that easy or simple and like 'Pandoras box' can open up a can of worms........and in the case of firearms can be not only dangerous, but lethal..........
if any doubt or concern, thats what the factory is there for,and will help you, but many of us do try and "save a dime".....and hopefully you can find a cylinder that is close enough to work....make sure you get your hands on a cylinder that is at least the same size ( overall length) of the cylinder that is in YOUR gun, and WORKS, and use those measurements......if a tad longer, it can be 'adjusted" , made to work, with a bit of stoning or filing...if not do not buy a "pig in a poke" and waste your money on the "too small, too short" ones..............lesson learned, remember ALWAYS, "safety first..."
Good luck
And as noted above, GOOD book and worth every penny.............it'll help.
if any doubt or concern, thats what the factory is there for,and will help you, but many of us do try and "save a dime".....and hopefully you can find a cylinder that is close enough to work....make sure you get your hands on a cylinder that is at least the same size ( overall length) of the cylinder that is in YOUR gun, and WORKS, and use those measurements......if a tad longer, it can be 'adjusted" , made to work, with a bit of stoning or filing...if not do not buy a "pig in a poke" and waste your money on the "too small, too short" ones..............lesson learned, remember ALWAYS, "safety first..."
Good luck
And as noted above, GOOD book and worth every penny.............it'll help.
A
Anonymous
flatgate said:www.gunbooks.com
Worth every penny!!!!!
flatgate
I've thought about one of those for a good while. I assume it covers Bearcats?
bearcatter, It covers everything you will ever want to know about Ruger SA revolvers with supplemental info on the Bearcats. The Bearcats are simple take-off's of the other Rugers and have many "notes" also in the book. All of Kuhnhausen's books are without "equal". Even after 44 years of gunsmithing, I go back to this book frequently! Saves trying to remember "vague" details.....................Dick :wink:
flatgate
Hawkeye
Jbrown75 said:
Well, the simple solution to that dilemma is to have a "spare set" of lockwork parts. Install them prior to returning the gun to Ruger........
Been there, done that.
flatgate
Just for information's sake . . .
Can you simply remove the "good parts" and then send the gun to Ruger?
This could easily result in the extreme case of sending only a barrelled frame. Anyone know how Ruger would react to that, assuming you were willing to pay for the parts they'd add to build up a complete gun?
Just asking.
Can you simply remove the "good parts" and then send the gun to Ruger?
This could easily result in the extreme case of sending only a barrelled frame. Anyone know how Ruger would react to that, assuming you were willing to pay for the parts they'd add to build up a complete gun?
Just asking.
as long as they have enough to work with ( the frames, etc) I'd remove any and all "custom" stuff, including grips, they'll put in the "safety conversion" update, and fit the new cylinder ( which is what you'll have to pay for, cylinder, fitting ( labor) and postage both ways..........)
when does one reach the point in" cost of deminishing returns"??.....me, I'd look for the cylinder you want and need..............the reason "why"?? just MAYBE< if they fit a new cylinder, it will be "fitted" to the "new lockwork" and when you put your other stuff back in , it just may NOT work, and end up still needing "fitting" ( adjusting)...........been there, done that.....
Uncle Murphy was an 'optimist'....... 8)
when does one reach the point in" cost of deminishing returns"??.....me, I'd look for the cylinder you want and need..............the reason "why"?? just MAYBE< if they fit a new cylinder, it will be "fitted" to the "new lockwork" and when you put your other stuff back in , it just may NOT work, and end up still needing "fitting" ( adjusting)...........been there, done that.....
Uncle Murphy was an 'optimist'....... 8)
