FITTING A GRIP FRAME

[onehandgunner]

I got a stainless SBH Dragoon grip frame to replace the xr3-red frame that came on my 4.6" SBH. It is new from Midway. What is the best method to use to fit this. I tried doing a search but me and the search engine ain't gettin' along. thanks Jerry

 

[rugerguy]

first off you MUST put it on the cylinder frame, and use the screws, all 5 of them , to set it in place use a set of old screws for the "on and off", no use boogering up the final ones after the work is completed...THEN you can "see" just what has to come off ,if needed, how much to take off and so forth, then remove it to do the actual work...bottom line keep the 'flats, FLAT.... and the curves, curved...take your time, small hand files blocks of wood and some emery paper ( garnet or aluminum oxide is fine also......) nice thing about stainless is it is 'forgiving' ........NO POWER tools !! unless you know HOW to use them ,but then you would n't be asking huh......
take your time, go slowly, neatness counts, and yes we ALL love to see pictures........... :wink:

 

[onehandgunner]

rugerguy, I have done fiberglass work on boats but I don't think my 4" grinder with 28 grit is the "tool" for this job. I have 150, 220, 320 all garnet, I am out of wet/dry, and plenty of flat blocks of wood but no files. I could use the 220 and spend more time on it. Is the storm hammering you? thanks Jerry

 

[rugerguy]

well if you have done fiberglass work, then you KNOW what to "see" and look for to keep flats ,flat and curves , rounded......small hand files ,if needed ,for the sides are the easiest and surest, but most of the time it is only paper, wrapped around the 'flat' of a file does the trick.....on the back strap ( curves) you can use long, narrow strips of the the emery (garnet paper) keep it "fine",less markings in the stainless...stainless IS relatively 'soft' and the surface can be smoothed,polished quite easily..
no ,we were lucky, just steady winds ,gusting now and then, but LOTS of rain, its still raining,over 6 inches in the past two? days now........never lost power,but just north of us, in Lake county, many still have their power out,mainly downed lines,trees, etc.
Sad out on the coast,devastation beyond believe, and its ALL 'salt water' ,that sure helps the metal work and electronics,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[flatgate]

I like to clamp the grip frame to the bench and then "adjust" it so the cylinder frame/barrel assembly will "fit". Take your time! Remember, you don't want to touch the cylinder frame with the file unless you absolutely have to....

Look close at the pic. I've got the "lower" portion of the grip frame starting to fit OK. Dig up some "work screws" and always install at least 3 screws while checking "fit". Next I'll work on the "ears" of the grip frame so they "match" up with the cylinder frame. Work on one side a little bit then flip it over. Repeat. When things are getting close to fitting then I install all 5 screws EVERY TIME I check the fit of the grip frame. Take your time and you'll do a better job........

As usual, JMHO......

flatgate

PS One can even go for the "homeboy" Hunter style.......... especially if one has a good friend with
TIG skills.......

 

[onehandgunner]

Okay, now I'm getting the picture. I don't have any screws so I will just buy new ones when I am done. I am waiting for the trigger return spring and pin, I could reuse the existing ones but I was wanting to leave the old frame intact for resale. Thanks guys I appreciate the help.

 

[onehandgunner]

2 hours later, I'm 99% done. I will get some 800 wet/dry and a few drops of oil and polish it out. It took 30 minutes of sanding 60 minutes to R&R the screws and 30 minutes to get it back together. Thanks guys I coud not have done it without ya'lls help. I don't have a camera and would not know how to get the film into the moniter anyway. thanks Jerry------ Update: Thursday A.M. took a wornout green pad and polished it. Looks good.