Fitting .45 acp cylinder

[protoolman]

I recently bought an ACP cylinder for a new vaquero that came from another new vaquero. First problem is the boss that sticks out on the front of the new cylinder is a few thousands short so the barrel actually rubs on the front of the cylinder although is seems you can push the cylinder back on the base pin and see a bit (maybe 2 thousands) barrel cylinder gap. Second problem is when you pull the hammer back fully it will cock on 5 chambers but on the 6th if you really force the hammer all the way back, wiggle it and push the trigger forward it with then cock barely. When this happens the cylinder seems jammed against the barrel rear so its touching. At full cock on this one chamber you can not force the cylinder back on the base pin. As far as the front to back slop I am aware I could use a washer made out of shim stock to keep the cylinder tight and keep the depth of the boss bigger than the barrel setback so it would have a free barrel cylinder gap. But what else would make the hammer not cock back fully and engage the sear? Dont want to start cutting on anything until I determine exactly what needs to be done.

 

[flatgate]

That ill fitting cylinder is where I'd start. The proper fix will take some machine work, however there are shims available.

Inspect the hammer well and the fit of the hammer. Is it dragging on the sides? Does the trigger drop into the full cock notch (remove cylinder first and re-install the base pin) each and every time you try? Now try with the cylinder installed. Identify the one chamber that won't "line up" with the barrel upon cocking the hammer. Inspect the related ratchet "tooth". Is it "burred or unlike in any way than the other 5? There should be a tiny bit of "slop" at all six ratchet cuts. (This ain't no Freedom Arms gun!)

I've had to "relieve" the ratchet cuts before........

I'd certainly address the end shake of the cylinder first. Barrel cylinder gap second, ratchet trouble third.
Machining a bit off the cylinder's "face" (to open up the B/C gap so there's at least 0.002" but more like 0.003" to 0.004" of clearance) should be followed by running a proper chambering reamer through the chamber to remove any "burrs".

There's certainly more to adding a second cylinder than "just dropping it in"..........

As usual, JMHO,

flatgate

 

[bedrockfred]

i bought the blued one from the same seller, i'll let you know how it fits in my new vaqueros when it gets here! sorry to hear that yours won't drop right in!

 

[protoolman]

Yep, I've had pretty good luck with cylinders dropping in. I've heard the figure 80%, guess I finally had to experience the other 20%. Thanks Flatgate, I believe I will try to take the problems in that order. Will probably shim the front of the cylinder, machine the cylinder a couple thousands, and then get an expert to help with the ratchet. I believe overall the cylinder sits with the ratchet bearing on the back of the frame with the boss on the front of the cylinder being a bit short. However the cylinder face is too tight to the back of the barrel. Shim and face machining should take care of that. I can address the locking up after that if it doesn't get better.

 

[Hondo44]

All good advice above, but 1st thing I would do is compare measurements of your original cylinder to the ACP cylinder;
Compare the length from the front face of the cylinders to the rear ratchet teeth surface. I suspect the ACP is a little longer by a few thousandths. Plain that off of the ratchet teeth. Try it in the gun and now you should have the same barrel to cyl gap as your 45 cylinder. Cock and see if it still binds on the one chamber. If not you're good to go.

(Note: The hammer does not give you enough leverage to move the cylinder past the barrel if it is binding AND PUTS TOO MUCH STRAIN ON ACTION PARTS.)

If it still binds, check the front face of the ACP cylinder for "runout"; You can coat the front face of the cylinder with a black indelible felt pen. As you turn the cylinder past the binding spot it will rub off the black ink. Many barrels are not square on the end after fitting for the cylinder gap. I would suspect that before I'd suspect a problem with the ACP cylinder. Measure the ratchet to cylinder face length with the full length of your caliper jaws across the cyl face at several points around the cylinder to see if it varies. I doubt it will but if it does, you have "runout" at the face of the cyl. It will need to be turned and trued up.

2nd and last correct for cyl end shake (because if you did it first you would have to add more length after planing the ratchet teeth surface) by shimming the cyl front boss. I use the new 'low temp' Silver solder to attach shims in place.

Let us know what you find and/or how it turns out.

 

[protoolman]

all good points. I believe I will get out my caliper and micrometer and check out all the variables before proceeding.

 

[bedrockfred]

howdy All, the blue .45ACP clyinder came today, it drops right into both my new vaqueros with no fitting needed, mine are the birdshead with 3" barrels, so now both are LC & ACP. iam surprized yours is not working out! what model are you trying to put yours into?

 

[protoolman]

Its the stainless New Vaquero birdshead that Seebs sold a while back. The gunsmith said he can fit it fairly easily. (fingers ccrossed). We will see. Will post the result.