Feeding the 1911 Part 2: The extractor.

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1911Tuner

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
243
In diagnosing feed/return to battery problems...once the magazine is eliminated as a possible cause...the next thing to look at is the extractor. We're assuming that the critical dimensions and geometry is within spec, and the pistol hasn't suffered the attentions of Dremel Dan and his typical work on the feed ramps.

The extractor's task is to pull the fired case from the chamber and hold onto it long enough for it to hit the ejector. That requires that the extractor place a little tension on the side of the rim and maintain it long enough to last the short trip. Much is made of proper extractor tension, with several knowledgeable people insisting on a narrow range. Too much and the slide can fail to return to battery. Too little, and the case falls off the breechface before it hits the ejector, causing weak and/or erratic ejection...or an outright failure to eject.

I haven't found that such a narrow window is all that critical, and that the gun will tolerate a lot more tension provided that the extractor operates with the proper amount of deflection...or lateral displacement with the case rim in place.

It doesn't take a lot of deflection, and too many modern pistols have way yonder more than necessary. If the case rim springs the extractor open as little as .005 inch...that's enough if the tension is sufficient. I like to see about .010-.012 inch, with .015 as a maximum...but I've gotten by with less.

There's another dimension involved. The distance between the breechface guide blocks. These are the two small, rectangular projections on the underside of the breechface. The extractor passes through one of them. Deflection is determined by the amount of the extractor's tensioning wall that protrudes past its block. Too much, and the rim literally hits a wall as it slides up the breechface and it can bring the slide to a stop just short of full battery. Too little, and we get extraction and/or ejection problems. By a wide margin, I've found too much in a good many production guns, and only rarely too little.

The wall protrusion is determined by the dimension of the forward pad, just behind the claw. If that is within spec at around .130-inch thick...and the breechface guides are within spec and centered...and the extractor channel isn't angled...the extractor will drop in and work with just a little bending for proper tension. If any of these dimensions are out of spec...it probably won't. You can bend and straighten the extractor until pigs fly and still have as problem on one function or the other.

On the next post, we'll look at the guide blocks and how they figure into this. Meanwhile, the picture below shows a condition of wayyyy yonder too much deflection. This one was driving the owner 'round the bend with intermittent failures to go to battery, which is most often seen with deflection like this...but it can also cause a nose-dive into the ramp, even with good magazines and all critical dimensions within spec.

In other words, it can mimic a magazine problem, and is probably responsible for more Bubba-ed up feed and barrel ramps than anything else, because even Bubba usually tries different magazines before reaching for his Dremel tool.

Look at the picture. If you're having frequent return to battery failures, and you've tried different magazines without much success...this is the next place to look. Chances are, this is what you'll find. This was an OEM extractor in a good quality production gun. It had been back to the factory without resolve. The fix took all of about 10 minutes.

So, study this picture for a few minutes and visualize how it can cause a problem. I'll touch on the guide block specs later.

ZDeflection_zps7ba1f5b6.jpg
 

JET AV8R

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
19
Location
Starke, Fl
1911Tuner, Just wanted to say how much I enjoy and learn from your postings. Hope you continue to educate those of us who are in need of and appreciate you taking the time to pass on your knowledge.

Thanks,

Jet Av8r
 

1911Tuner

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
243
Back to those little guide blocks.

Logic suggests that they have to be far enough apart to allow a rim to enter the breechface area, and most are amply wide enough to do that with room to spare. There also has to be room for the extractor to impose a small part of its tensioning wall...but not so much that it blocks smooth extractor pickup.

Measuring between the blocks with a caliper, I like to see .480-482 inch, though .484-.486 seems to work okay. There was a time that I liked .484-.488 but since I stopped trying to use brass so many times that the headstamps are nearly illegible, I've stopped opening up the width and just rely on a light bevel to help funnel the rims in.

If it's too wide, the rear of the cartridge can be moved laterally when it takes the extractor, offering the chance for a misfeed...even a slight one.

Many smiths will open this up to .488-.490 if the owner is a heavy shooter and a reloader to allow for rim diameter growth from repeated firing and reloading cycles...and since that entails removing an equal amount from both blocks...the potential for too much deflection is there. Some aftermarket extractors come with an oversized locating pad to let the smith set the deflection.

With the guide block width set at .480-.482 inch and .010-.012 inch of wall showing, you get smooth extractor pickup with the largest in-spec rim diameters and sufficient tension for clean extraction and ejection with the smallest. The dimensions given are respective of one another.

The measurement should be taken with the extractor removed, with care taken to make sure that the point of the caliper jaw doesn't enter the extractor channel, or you'll get a false reading.

Deflection is checked with small feeler gauges and eyeball, which won't be exact, but will be close enough for gub'mint work.

With that amount of deflection and proper tension, along with a stable extractor...one that doesn't rotate...ejection will be consistent, and the brass will generally land within 5-6 feet of the gun. Sometimes, completely stabilizing the extractor requires an oversized firing pin stop, closely fitted to the extractor, but it's well worth the effort and if you use one of EGW's stops, you can cut a small radius at the bottom...or even leave it square...for a little added slide delay.

Be aware that most of the Russian ammunition has small, out of spec rims. I've run into a few lots with rim diameters below .470 inch. Wolf and Bear are the only ones that I've had experience with. I can't make a call on Tula. There were other issues with Wolf that I won't go into here, but I really can't recommend it.
 

Rodfac

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
691
Location
Kentucky
1911 Tuner...again thanks for a great post...you're becoming a regular contributor to my "save forever" file. Rod
 

dakota1911

Buckeye
Joined
Mar 26, 2009
Messages
1,021
I think if you have this problem:

Of course you field stripped and cleaned your 1911.


Have a buddy shoot your pistol.

Look at ammo. Try different ammo.

Try different mags.

Try another recoil spring, which some of us call a return to battery spring.

If you feel like it goes beyond the field strip and look at the extractor area. Is there crud in there.

If you bought it new then I think it is time to call Ruger and talk with them.
 

1911Tuner

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
243
I think if you have this problem:

Of course you field stripped and cleaned your 1911.

Unless it's obviously spankin' clean or nearly new, the first thing that I do with any delinquent 1911 pistol...especially with a burp in the trigger/fire control group...is to detail-strip and clean it. This, before I assume anything. Before I tweak or tune or change anything.

About 1 time in 10, that's done the trick.

Try another recoil spring, which some of us call a return to battery spring.

It is an action/return to battery spring. That's its purpose.

If the pistol is right, it will function with a 10-pound spring. Installing new or overpowered action springs only masks the real problem...when it works...and the problem will be back eventually.

My litmus test is to remove the recoil system, and feed rounds from the magazine by pushing on the slide with the tip of one finger. If the pistol is going to present a problem, I can feel it. It'll have a hitch in the gitalong, and even a slight one is cause for concern.
 

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