AKGrouch
Bearcat
What's a realistic price to pay for a set of factory stags for a XR3 flattop?
Factory Stags
- Thread starter AKGrouch
- Start date
graysontaylor
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2007
- Messages
- 111
I paid $250, yesterday for a nice set of SS Grips.
Grayson
Grayson
graysontaylor":39aqpy44 said:
Figure double that for 'ligit' ,proper, ORIGINAL factory stag grips for the old model XR-3.......................
308longdistance
Blackhawk
Not forsale......I don't think I would part with em at $500.
flatgate
Hawkeye
AKGrouch":3apnwawe said:
I does take some experience at handling these things. The Medallions should be placed right, the grip screw should be just so, the workmanship isn't "real crude" but it's not "top notch" either.
The inner surface of the grips have their own "signature" as well. That is the medallion "staking" should be "just so" and not "hammered". The medallion installation should exhibit uniform characteristics. The grip screw's escutcheons should be "old school" and in no way like the "production" components utilized on the black plastic and walnut grips of the '50's and very early '60's.
I'm sure some of the experienced collectors will chime in with their "methods" of authentication.
Years ago I got this pair from a very, very well known collector who had written many, many articles about Rugers.
He was convinced they were legitimate Ruger Factory issued grips. Everything appears pretty nice except - #1 The medallions are the dull finish examples and #2 the medallions are not installed "evenly". So, it's very doubtful they are "legit" but I got 'em and ain't letting them go......
A good friend has a pair that's very similar and he's received pretty good "provenance" about the legitimacy of his grips.flatgate
street
Hunter
flatgate":2dd0nbuq said:AKGrouch":2dd0nbuq said:
I does take some experience at handling these things. The Medallions should be placed right, the grip screw should be just so, the workmanship isn't "real crude" but it's not "top notch" either.
The inner surface of the grips have their own "signature" as well. That is the medallion "staking" should be "just so" and not "hammered". The medallion installation should exhibit uniform characteristics. The grip screw's escutcheons should be "old school" and in no way like the "production" components utilized on the black plastic and walnut grips of the '50's and very early '60's.
I'm sure some of the experienced collectors will chime in with their "methods" of authentication.
Years ago I got this pair from a very, very well known collector who had written many, many articles about Rugers.
He was convinced they were legitimate Ruger Factory issued grips. Everything appears pretty nice except - #1 The medallions are the dull finish examples and #2 the medallions are not installed "evenly". So, it's very doubtful they are "legit" but I got 'em and ain't letting them go......
flatgate
Flatgate, Those are a nice looking set of grips, but I don't like the placement of the Medallions. To me they are too far back from the front of the grips. Most of the "experts", the ones that have done a lot of research, seem to think that they should be placed about 1/4 in. from the top and front of the grips. That 1/4 in. is from the edge of the medallion. Of course Ruger had different vendors and it is possible that the medallions could have been placed anywhere. I guess one will never know for sure.
One thought for new collectors, if you are going to pay a lot of money for a set of "Factory Stags", do your research and buy something that you won't have trouble selling in the future. Do a lot of reading and see what is considered to be "correct", and then buy. It doesn't matter if a set of stags are factory, if everyone thinks they are not, then you will not be able to sell them in the future. I had a set of grips that I thought was factory. The only problem was one of the grips was thin at the top and there wasn't enought materal in the stag to countersink the stem of the medallion. People would look at that and think that it was not factory, and not see that it was to thin to countersink. All of the "Expert" information stated that the stem had to be countersunk so as to stake the stem, and so it had to be countersunk to be factory. I had a hard time selling that set of grips. The lesson learned, make sure it looks right before you buy.
Oh well,back to the original question, of just "who, or whom, says they are legit...." we can beat this dead horse a thousand times over, and over.........
I feel and othrs agree , that over the period of time from their "onset" there were different eras of where the mdallions were located, based on the type of stag and where they came from...the flat out front was longer, then they shortened them up and moved the medallions forward, I heard they went back and forth as they were breaking when too far forward?????too near either of the edges...... Chad says 3/16" either way, ONLY...??as said above, if TOO perfect and TOO neat and TOO costly, I'd stay away from them....of all the pairs we had over the years, and many were of the three basic different locations, as well as the ones we saw on displays , and the MANY dozens and dozens of the ones we have measured over the years, and the fact we got most of them "free" on guns, and very cheap at that, never paid more than $250 for any of them I( and the two we did pay that much for ,got from Jeff M and John D, and they looked like the ones Flatgate has pictured above...except the ones from JD were almost "smooth" they were sanded down....most of the bark removed........... :roll:
I wish I had a picture of the look on the 'Radical Ones' face at the one show when we were measuring about 25 pairs of these grips from a cople of collectors back then.....priceless, his eyes were wide open.......... :lol:
I feel and othrs agree , that over the period of time from their "onset" there were different eras of where the mdallions were located, based on the type of stag and where they came from...the flat out front was longer, then they shortened them up and moved the medallions forward, I heard they went back and forth as they were breaking when too far forward?????too near either of the edges...... Chad says 3/16" either way, ONLY...??as said above, if TOO perfect and TOO neat and TOO costly, I'd stay away from them....of all the pairs we had over the years, and many were of the three basic different locations, as well as the ones we saw on displays , and the MANY dozens and dozens of the ones we have measured over the years, and the fact we got most of them "free" on guns, and very cheap at that, never paid more than $250 for any of them I( and the two we did pay that much for ,got from Jeff M and John D, and they looked like the ones Flatgate has pictured above...except the ones from JD were almost "smooth" they were sanded down....most of the bark removed........... :roll:
I wish I had a picture of the look on the 'Radical Ones' face at the one show when we were measuring about 25 pairs of these grips from a cople of collectors back then.....priceless, his eyes were wide open.......... :lol:
radicalrod
Hunter
Hey Dan, I find it works much better if I do keep my eyes wide open.....I don't miss as much......no one even offered me a rejected pair that day......and I am not as fussy as most.....
I think if you can find a set that makes you happy ( no pair will ever make everyone happy ) and can afford the asking price just buy them......sometimes ya just gotta walk away as a just slightly informed seller will want way more than they are worth.....I don't mind a nice looking set that most likely isn't right as long as the price is right.....most of the times it is the back side that most do not like and ya can't see that when they are on a gun. Heck remember that new "sanbar" bring 150 plus with NM emblems ......have fun and remember even the "experts" can't absolutely say YES they ARE......see ya RR.
I think if you can find a set that makes you happy ( no pair will ever make everyone happy ) and can afford the asking price just buy them......sometimes ya just gotta walk away as a just slightly informed seller will want way more than they are worth.....I don't mind a nice looking set that most likely isn't right as long as the price is right.....most of the times it is the back side that most do not like and ya can't see that when they are on a gun. Heck remember that new "sanbar" bring 150 plus with NM emblems ......have fun and remember even the "experts" can't absolutely say YES they ARE......see ya RR.
Also remember there have been quite a number of "later production" grip panels that never saw the inside of a Ruger facility . . . and that many of these look more "real" than the "real" ones do.
The advice to do your homework and consult with knowledgeable folks cannot be overemphasized. Also beware of the "too good to be true" scenario.
:mrgreen:
The advice to do your homework and consult with knowledgeable folks cannot be overemphasized. Also beware of the "too good to be true" scenario.
:mrgreen:
chet15
Hawkeye
Hey....I'm staying out of this one!!
I've turned a new leaf...sort of!
You're right though, it is a dead horse.
....yet the question remains....are they worth $500+...or are they worth $250?
How about ivory?? $1,500 or $500?
If you are looking to buy, you need to know your facts.
Coin collecting is the same way. There are more "fakes" out there in some coins (1909-S-VDB penny, and 1932-D quarter for example) than originals...and the stag and ivory grips out there are the same in that fact. It is one of the "saddest" happenings in Ruger collecting history. The almighty $ seems to have that ill-affect on many people.
And I think that most people will agree with me when I say it only took one generation of Ruger collectors before most collectors out there call most of their stag and ivory "right". :?
Chet15
I've turned a new leaf...sort of!
You're right though, it is a dead horse.
....yet the question remains....are they worth $500+...or are they worth $250?
How about ivory?? $1,500 or $500?
If you are looking to buy, you need to know your facts.
Coin collecting is the same way. There are more "fakes" out there in some coins (1909-S-VDB penny, and 1932-D quarter for example) than originals...and the stag and ivory grips out there are the same in that fact. It is one of the "saddest" happenings in Ruger collecting history. The almighty $ seems to have that ill-affect on many people.
And I think that most people will agree with me when I say it only took one generation of Ruger collectors before most collectors out there call most of their stag and ivory "right". :?
Chet15
street
Hunter
chet15":mhltxw2f said:Hey....I'm staying out of this one!!
I've turned a new leaf...sort of!
You're right though, it is a dead horse.
....yet the question remains....are they worth $500+...or are they worth $250?
How about ivory?? $1,500 or $500?
If you are looking to buy, you need to know your facts.
Coin collecting is the same way. There are more "fakes" out there in some coins (1909-S-VDB penny, and 1932-D quarter for example) than originals...and the stag and ivory grips out there are the same in that fact. It is one of the "saddest" happenings in Ruger collecting history. The almighty $ seems to have that ill-affect on many people.
And I think that most people will agree with me when I say it only took one generation of Ruger collectors before most collectors out there call most of their stag and ivory "right". :?
Chet15
I agree with Chad. If you are going to buy a 1909-S-VDB or a 1932-D Quarter then the only way to buy one of these is to make sure that it is certified by PCGS or NGC. It's too bad that we don't have some way to do this with our Rugers. The only thing that we can do is "DO YOUR RESEARCH".
I can see it now . . . Ruger grip panels "slabbed" in plastic . . .
radicalrod
Hunter
OR certified and graded by JD :roll: :roll: :roll: see ya RR.
DanChamberlain
Single-Sixer
Never liked Medallions on my grips no how! If someone can't look at the gun and tell it's a Ruger, I don't need to put a sign on it. Factory grips are fine, but If I'm going to put stag on a gun, it's not going to be adorned. The stag is the adornment.
Dan
Dan
chet15
Hawkeye
Hey...sounds like there's a few coin collectors on here too, eh?
Since dad's starting to sell some of his guns off (retirement) he's re-investing in coins. Kind of a hobby of mine too....I like reading about them, but can't afford most of the high prices. Right now I'm working on a set of all coin denominations in UNC. back to 1934. Once I have that then I can continue going backwards.
Doubt of Social Security or anything else will be solvent by the time I retire, so have to have something to fall back on.
Chet15
Since dad's starting to sell some of his guns off (retirement) he's re-investing in coins. Kind of a hobby of mine too....I like reading about them, but can't afford most of the high prices. Right now I'm working on a set of all coin denominations in UNC. back to 1934. Once I have that then I can continue going backwards.
Doubt of Social Security or anything else will be solvent by the time I retire, so have to have something to fall back on.
Chet15
street
Hunter
AKGrouch":2jm7d0mi said:
If you were going to buy a rare coin, who would you rather buy from? A coin certified by "Joe Blow" who makes his living from selling coins for the most that he can get for them or from PCGS or NGC, who make their living from only certifying coins that they do not sell? Yes, usually you will pay more for a PCGS, or NGC certified coin, but there is a good reason for it. When you go to sell it there is no problem selling it for the grade that it is certified for. People in the coin business will accept their grade, no questions ask.
Pcgs guarantee is as follows:
The cash-back policy ensures the accuracy of the grade assigned to any PCGS coin as long as it remains in its tamper-evident holder.
chet15
Hawkeye
I agree with street. I think a lot of dealers buy raw coins and overgrade just a smidgeon....but that smidgeon can mean several hundred or even thousands of dollars. Wouldn't surprise me either if a few dealers take coins out of their NGC or PCGS slabs and sell at a smidgeon higher grade.
There are still issues with NGC and PCGS, and I imagine there always will be...but they are the accepted standard. ANACS fell by the wayside quite a few years ago and there are other grading companies also, but these "other" companies overgrade substantially when compared to NGC and PCGS.
And....NGC and PCGS will guarantee authenticity....no forgeries in their holders.
street...you and I must talk! PM sent.
Chet15
There are still issues with NGC and PCGS, and I imagine there always will be...but they are the accepted standard. ANACS fell by the wayside quite a few years ago and there are other grading companies also, but these "other" companies overgrade substantially when compared to NGC and PCGS.
And....NGC and PCGS will guarantee authenticity....no forgeries in their holders.
street...you and I must talk! PM sent.
Chet15
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