Easy Off Bearcat Barrel

Sam Johnson · Nov 15, 2012

Here is how I removed the frame stub from an old Bearcat barrel. First thing is to go slow , take your time.. Apply KROIL for about a week. Give it time to work. Tap with brass rod to help oil penetrate.
Then fit wood blocks to the barrel . I used a hand rasp to get the right taper.
Next I filed down a piece of drill rod to fit the cylinder latch hole for extra torque.
Clamp into bench vice and unscrew stub.
I have a cylinder frame coming from Gunbroker. Hope to work these parts into my Cat display.

rugerguy · Nov 15, 2012

thats great for a 'stub" but do NOT EVER try that with a GOOD frame, you can and will break off the bottom at the hole..............MUST use fitted halves to enclose the cylinder frame, and even then there is NO sure bet the frame will NOT crack...this is why most shops and the factory will NOT remove the barrels from an alloy frame....they crack, they split, they break into pieces......... :roll:

Pinecone · Nov 16, 2012

I concur with rugerguy! Super easy to crack alloy frames. Past experience says it's a crapshoot with some good and bad results! I'm currently restoring a Springfield Model 87A (same as a Savage Model 6) that was rusted badly. I was finally able to remove all screws without damage, with a combination of heat, penetrating oil and a screwjack. As the joint starts to cool, apply the penetrating fluid. You'll see it sucked up into the thread area! On barrels, I like to use heat, use a penetrant, and repeat this process until I get them to budge. Sam's idea is good to gently "tap" the thread area as the oil works into the threads. Use a non-maring tool to tap. Just remember to use "moderate" heat and only for a short time. You don't want to "disturb" the heat treatment!.................Dick :wink:

flatgate · Nov 30, 2012

Speaking of alloy cylinder frames..... I have a friend whom acquired a BC-4 that dropped out of a holster at the same time the pick-up's door was being swung shut.

Voila! Two piece cylinder frame!

flatgate