DIY parkerizing - my MKII Target Model

[btrumanj]

I didn't think I was going to like it until I saw the photo. I kinda have a thing for MKIIs anyway and your gun is really sharp looking. Nice job.

 

[STL_SR9er]

That MKII looks sexy, great work!

 

[gb6491]

btrumanj and STL_SR9er,
Thanks
Regards,
Greg

 

[tplace]

gb6491, if it's not to late to ask, how did you seal off the bore?
Thanks!
Looks great by the way, I have a MK I that I want to park.

 

[psyclone66]

Looks great! I thought the grip frames on those models were aluminum alloy. Parkerization and aluminum???? What am I missing?

 

[woodpuppy]

Looks great! I thought the grip frames on those models were aluminum alloy. Parkerization and aluminum???? What am I missing?

It's all steel.

Greg, that is one sharp MKII. The blacked out grips look great too. now, where can I get one?!? 8)

 

[lovemyruger2010]

looks good. I don't know much about gun smithing but, I see you parkerised the bolt. Will that ware off over time since the bolt is always sliding back and forth during use?

 

[gb6491]

gb6491, if it's not to late to ask, how did you seal off the bore?
Thanks!
Looks great by the way, I have a MK I that I want to park.

Thanks and my apologies for not responding sooner (just now read your post).
I used some small corks that I found at Home Depot; alternately you could fashion some plugs from a wood dowel rod.

Looks great! I thought the grip frames on those models were aluminum alloy. Parkerization and aluminum???? What am I missing?

It's all steel.

Greg, that is one sharp MKII. The blacked out grips look great too. now, where can I get one?!? 8)

psyclone66,
Thanks. woodpuppy is indeed correct about the grip frames being steel.

woodpuppy,
Thanks In regards to getting one: Parkerizing is pretty DIY friendly. The process itself requires solution, a heat source (process works best in the 180 to 190 degree F range) and container (stainless steel, porcelain clad, or ceramic/glass). The solution is is cheap and requires minimum prep (usually dilute with water and condition with some steel wool).
Surface prep requires removing the old finish (and any rust), then cleaning and degrease.
Here's a brief description, with photos and links, that I posted on another board:
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=922089

looks good. I don't know much about gun smithing but, I see you parkerised the bolt. Will that ware off over time since the bolt is always sliding back and forth during use?

Thanks. I think bolt wear marks will vary gun to gun; this gun showed little to no wear on the exposed area of the bolt prior to the parkerizing and has continued so post parkerizing. I have other Mark IIs that show a lot of contact marks on the bolt and I'm sure, if parkerized, would soon show the same wear in short order.

Reagrds,
Greg

 

[tplace]

Thanks Greg!

Any recommendations on sand blasting hardware?
Terry

 

[gb6491]

Thanks Greg!

Any recommendations on sand blasting hardware?
Terry

You're welcome.
First and foremost, get yourself a good respirator.
Then, ideally, a large cabinet, large compressor and exhaust/filtration/collection unit.
Me? I went with a small, leaky, bench top cabinet, barely adequate compressor and no exhaust/filter/collection system.

I had read that most of the bench top cabinets leak to some degree; mine was no exception, but at least I knew it would need some work before use (mostly requiring RTV sealer). It also does not have a light. I would get one with the light built in if I do it again. The unit is from Harbor Freight. I would list the SKU , but it was discontinued (here's what it looks like, price was near $120).

The compressor required depends upon the air consumption of the blast gun. The cabinet I chose was a good match for my small compressor on paper, but I need to let it "catch up" in real use. Bigger is better here.

Blast medium: 80 grit aluminum oxide from Harbor Freight.

Now, all that said, here's what I what I currently use:
I have my cabinet mounted on a small table (cart would be better) so I can move it outdoors for use. I still use it inside, but prefer outdoors becuase of the leakage. I mainly use the cabinet for glass bead.
The compressor is still playing "catch up"
I "sand blast" out in the yard using a hand held blast gun (about $15 at Harbor Freight; it does not have SKU on it or show up on the HF website searching for "blast guns" It is siphon feed with a white plastic container under the gun). ALWAYS WEAR YOUR RESPIRATOR when using it. It's a good idea to use the respirator when using the cabinet as well.
The gun works better for me than the cabinet, but consider media loss with the gun at 100%. Then, if you blast into 55 gallon trash can you will reclaim some media and not be disappointed in the amount reclaimed.
It's a messy; as in you'll get quite a bit on yourself. Wear the respirator.
Something similar to this might be my next project:
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/0 ... ng_ca.html
If you reuse media, don't mix materials being blasted with the recycled media. IE: fine steel particles in used media can be embedded in aluminum work pieces causing rust stains.
Blasting results can be manipulated by blasting from various distances and/or changing air pressure. You can also mask off areas to produce different surfaces; I like to bead blast stainless guns, but sand blast the top rib/sight plane:

The Taurus at the bottom of this photo was done last week using the gun and cabinet:

Regards,
Greg

 

[deac45]

Greg, you do good work, sir! The contrast between the sight plane and the rest of the gun on that S&W looks great! Nice mod to the hammer spur, too.

deac45

 

[tplace]

Greg,
Thanks for the information and pictures. The idea of parkerizing is very appealing to me for its ability to soak up oil based products. It doesn't look too shabby either, as illustrated by your projects.

kind regards,
Terry

 

[cphilip]

Way to go Greg.... I love to see somebody else taking the chances and learning. Your stuff is super nicely done.

 

[gb6491]

Greg, you do good work, sir! The contrast between the sight plane and the rest of the gun on that S&W looks great! Nice mod to the hammer spur, too.

deac45

Thanks! The original hammer spur on the Model 60 used to pinch the web of my hand from time to time. I arrived at this shape by taking enough off that it wouldn't pinch me, then removing a little at time and reshaping the spur until I was satisfied that it was pretty snag resistant and still easily cocked single action. I'm real happy with it.

You're welcome Terry. If you go with the parkerizing and have any questions give me a shout.

cphilip,
Thanks man! I perused your website and now have it bookmarked. My wife liked it as well; she's a big scooter fan (actually wrenched on some at a shop in Hawaii). How's that Vespa with companion car coming along. Wouldn't that be a rig to tour Italia in
Ciao,
Greg

 

[woodpuppy]

Greg,

did that AMT trigger take much fitting? would one fit a MK I?

thanks,
Dave

 

[gb6491]

Greg,

did that AMT trigger take much fitting? would one fit a MK I?

thanks,
Dave

Hi Dave,
No physical alterations were required. I recall it did need a little extra manipulation to get it in the frame, but once installed, it functions fine . I don't know firsthand about fitting it in a MARK I, but I have one in my circa 1953 Standard and it also works fine (again, no fitting was required).

Regards,
Greg

 

[woodpuppy]

slick! thanks for the info.

Dave