Bob R
Single-Sixer
I have been shooting my 480 Ruger Super RedHawk quite a bit tuning up for deer season here in Missouri. I have never taken my 9.5 Inch Super RedHawk apart ever. Just cleaned the barrel and cylinder, and a little oil here and their from the outside.
Anyway my cylinder started to bind up. I have had this happen in the past, and knew what the problem was, crud build-up on the crane shaft inside the cylinder.
I had been told that a special tool "no longer offered" by Brownells was required to disassemble the cylinder from the crane.
Well I did a search, and found this to not be the case. All that is required is a couple small punches. The tool probably made disassembly easier, I would guess.
Cylinder Disassembly: Locate the hole drilled on the flat surface of the crane (Part 51). Use a small pin punch inserted in the hole and push down. You will feel the spring-loaded plunger (parts # 22 & 23) move down. While pressing the plunder down, push the latch pivot pin (part #25) out from the inside of the crane. The front latch (part #13), latch plunger (part #26), and latch plunger spring (part #4) will fall out. Pull the ejector rod (part #11) out of the cylinder. Pull the crane (part #51) out of the cylinder. You can accomplish a good cleaning without taking the internal cylinder parts out. Flood the inside of the cylinder hole with a good cleaner and blow it out with compressed air.
I cleaned the crane with a rag and solvent, and ended up using a scotchbrite pad to get the hard carbon out. I told you it was dirty. :lol:
I reassembled the crane into the cylinder after lubing with a little assembly lube. Not sure if this was the best lubricant for the job, but I do not plan on letting the internals get this bad again.
NOTE: Do a search for "Cylinder Disassembly Super RedHawk" and you can find a YouTube vidio on doing this that will really help by E. Olemite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwrSW2wbdhY
NOTE 2: You should not need to disassemble the cylinder any further than the above for cleaning. A special slotted screwdriver is required to remove the Left Hand Thread screw (part #60) to get the Ejector parts out of the cylinder. Where further cylinder disassembly is required would be chamfering the chambers, normally only done on a GP100, which comes apart exactly the same. I will end up making the slotted screwdriver, just so I have one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw5kzPAuk3w
I hope this saves someone a little trouble down the road. The Vidio will walk you through taking the Super RedHawk/GP100 apart, and reassembly.
Bob
Anyway my cylinder started to bind up. I have had this happen in the past, and knew what the problem was, crud build-up on the crane shaft inside the cylinder.
I had been told that a special tool "no longer offered" by Brownells was required to disassemble the cylinder from the crane.
Well I did a search, and found this to not be the case. All that is required is a couple small punches. The tool probably made disassembly easier, I would guess.
Cylinder Disassembly: Locate the hole drilled on the flat surface of the crane (Part 51). Use a small pin punch inserted in the hole and push down. You will feel the spring-loaded plunger (parts # 22 & 23) move down. While pressing the plunder down, push the latch pivot pin (part #25) out from the inside of the crane. The front latch (part #13), latch plunger (part #26), and latch plunger spring (part #4) will fall out. Pull the ejector rod (part #11) out of the cylinder. Pull the crane (part #51) out of the cylinder. You can accomplish a good cleaning without taking the internal cylinder parts out. Flood the inside of the cylinder hole with a good cleaner and blow it out with compressed air.
I cleaned the crane with a rag and solvent, and ended up using a scotchbrite pad to get the hard carbon out. I told you it was dirty. :lol:
I reassembled the crane into the cylinder after lubing with a little assembly lube. Not sure if this was the best lubricant for the job, but I do not plan on letting the internals get this bad again.
NOTE: Do a search for "Cylinder Disassembly Super RedHawk" and you can find a YouTube vidio on doing this that will really help by E. Olemite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwrSW2wbdhY
NOTE 2: You should not need to disassemble the cylinder any further than the above for cleaning. A special slotted screwdriver is required to remove the Left Hand Thread screw (part #60) to get the Ejector parts out of the cylinder. Where further cylinder disassembly is required would be chamfering the chambers, normally only done on a GP100, which comes apart exactly the same. I will end up making the slotted screwdriver, just so I have one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw5kzPAuk3w
I hope this saves someone a little trouble down the road. The Vidio will walk you through taking the Super RedHawk/GP100 apart, and reassembly.
Bob