Detailed Cleaning of the Super RedHawk

[Bob R]

I have been shooting my 480 Ruger Super RedHawk quite a bit tuning up for deer season here in Missouri. I have never taken my 9.5 Inch Super RedHawk apart ever. Just cleaned the barrel and cylinder, and a little oil here and their from the outside.

Anyway my cylinder started to bind up. I have had this happen in the past, and knew what the problem was, crud build-up on the crane shaft inside the cylinder.

I had been told that a special tool "no longer offered" by Brownells was required to disassemble the cylinder from the crane.

Well I did a search, and found this to not be the case. All that is required is a couple small punches. The tool probably made disassembly easier, I would guess.

Cylinder Disassembly: Locate the hole drilled on the flat surface of the crane (Part 51). Use a small pin punch inserted in the hole and push down. You will feel the spring-loaded plunger (parts # 22 & 23) move down. While pressing the plunder down, push the latch pivot pin (part #25) out from the inside of the crane. The front latch (part #13), latch plunger (part #26), and latch plunger spring (part #4) will fall out. Pull the ejector rod (part #11) out of the cylinder. Pull the crane (part #51) out of the cylinder. You can accomplish a good cleaning without taking the internal cylinder parts out. Flood the inside of the cylinder hole with a good cleaner and blow it out with compressed air.
I cleaned the crane with a rag and solvent, and ended up using a scotchbrite pad to get the hard carbon out. I told you it was dirty. :lol:

I reassembled the crane into the cylinder after lubing with a little assembly lube. Not sure if this was the best lubricant for the job, but I do not plan on letting the internals get this bad again.

NOTE: Do a search for "Cylinder Disassembly Super RedHawk" and you can find a YouTube vidio on doing this that will really help by E. Olemite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwrSW2wbdhY

NOTE 2: You should not need to disassemble the cylinder any further than the above for cleaning. A special slotted screwdriver is required to remove the Left Hand Thread screw (part #60) to get the Ejector parts out of the cylinder. Where further cylinder disassembly is required would be chamfering the chambers, normally only done on a GP100, which comes apart exactly the same. I will end up making the slotted screwdriver, just so I have one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw5kzPAuk3w

I hope this saves someone a little trouble down the road. The Vidio will walk you through taking the Super RedHawk/GP100 apart, and reassembly.

Bob

 

[Bob R]

Well no need to fabricate the Ejector Retainer Screw Bit. Brownells still carrys it, once you get the discription close enough to find it doing a search.

Ruger Ejector Retainer Bit
080-432-001 WB
Current Price is around $9 for the Bit Only.

Like I said above most will never have the need for this Bit, however I like to have everything I might need to work on one myself.

I hope this is of some help to anyone wanting this specialty tool.

Bob

 

[Charlie U.]

thanks, Bob
I also gave my 480 a good tear down and detail cleaning in preparation for deer hunting.
Looks we had similar experience feeling our way thru it.

For lubing the cylinder assembly I just used a very light shot of REM oil.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Congrats for a good job but I have never found it necessary to take the cylinder off the shaft with my Redhawk or GP. I have flushed them well with solvent and oiled. I also don't take the trigger assemblies apart, just flush and oil.