Dangerous Ruger American Rifle Failure - Bolt? Safety?

[azgunslinger]

Hello all, newbie to this forum, but not to firearms. 16 yr old son drawn for elk first time, so I bought him a Ruger American Rifle compact in 308. (he's on the smaller side). Maneuverable 18" barrel, shorter LOP, lighter weight, and manageable recoil. Price made sense for me. Plus, I live in Arizona, and I like to support the local guys. Have about 5 Ruger products - mostly 10/22 variants, but feel like they're decent and I am brand loyal where possible.

This experience has me questioning that strategy I have to say. I'm hoping it improves.

Son is an inexperienced shooter, as you'd expect. This is his first bolt gun.

I got the rifle from my FFL yesterday and inserted the bolt. Immediately, it seemed like the bolt was not smooth in two ways. Sliding forward and back seemed too rough, and rotating the bolt had a heavy 'catch' about half way through. Like a spring was supposed to seat but it was really stiff. Read a lot of discussion online about 'stiff bolts' so I thought that was it. But now I am not so sure it isn't a safety hazard. I was able to grease the bolt so the forward slide was frictionless, so we're only talking about the rotation of the bolt. Here's what I am seeing.

Slide the bolt forward, and the cams engage. As you rotate there is a definite 'stop' in the rotation about halfway around. At this point, with the safety off, you could pull the trigger without the bolt fully closed/locked. Concerning! But the firing pin doesn't advance. (good, right?) You hear a definite click like its 1/2 way released, but it wouldn't fire. However, completing the rotation of the bolt then allows the rifle to fire...or more accurately CAUSES the rifle to fire!

Obviously there are three conditions that have to be met for the rifle to fire (in no specific order): 1.) The trigger has to be pulled. 2.) the bolt has to be fully rotated and 3.) the safety has to be on 'fire'. With the bolt partially open, I can meet 2 of the 3 conditions (safety off, and trigger pulled), and then rotating the bolt closed meets the third and discharges the firearm.

I pulled the cover off the back end of the bolt, and i can see the rotational path it is going along. It does seem to have a shallow indentation where the bolt is stopping. Perhaps if there was a round chambered, the pressure would be slightly alleviated, but I am not comfortable with the firing pin moving forward simply by rotating the bolt a few degrees in any case. I do notice the bolt elevating slightly as I rotate it...specifically where the bottom of the bolt engages the tang safety. I liked the tang safety for intuitive operation (vs a bolt safety), but I am wondering if the design doesn't assume some tighter fit or something else this particular set up is lacking.

Bottom line: no way am I putting this rifle in my son's hands.

Please tell me if others would define this as a 'stiff bolt' or something that they've experienced and should fix itself with a break in. I don't even want to test fire this as I believe it is unsafe.

Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions!

 

[OldePhart]

Send it back to Ruger. Call them for a shipping label. Sadly, Ruger's QC has become almost non-existent, it seems. Fortunately, their customer service is still good (well, the best customer service would be not having to use it).

In another thread somebody showed a bolt from a recent Ruger bolt rifle that looked like it had been machined with a chain saw.

I still like Ruger guns but after experience with my last two new Rugers I won't buy another Ruger without getting some hands on time with it, first...i.e. no more "hey LGS guy, order me one of..."

John

 

[9x19]

We live in the age of sampling... there are few manufactured products made with a 100% inspection rate.

Contact Ruger... they will take care of it.

 

[azgunslinger]

Dangit OldePhart! I was afraid of that. I read about the woes of others online with all manufacturers. I have always taken negative feedback with a grain of salt because who trumpets "opened up the box, works as expected!" posts with the same passion and intensity?

No one.

Guess my number just came up with this one. I had a friend with an LC9 he bought for his dad. Same deal. Had to send it back to have a pin replaced to get it to function properly. Just disappointing all around, I hope Ruger is working to alleviate this quality issue.

Should I have bought a Savage or Marlin at the same price point? (I know, wrong forum for that kind of talk!)

I'm more worried about getting my son to be proficient between the time I receive the working gun and his opening day in October. Time will fly and the available weekends to go to the range will slip away before you know it. If he gets an elk in his crosshairs and misses...that bolt defect will be much more of a heart breaker than it already has proven to be.

 

[Chief 101]

I have the same rifle and it performs flawlessly, and that my friend is impressive for a plastic rifle these days...hope you get everything corrected in a timely manner and if so you should be happy with the way it performs

 

[WAYNO]

Should I have bought a Savage or Marlin at the same price point? (I know, wrong forum for that kind of talk!)

Wrong forum has nothing to do with it. Most of us are not that shallow.

But, QC issues are not confined to only Ruger products. You could have bought a Savage or Marlin, or many other brands, and could have had similar QC problems, and then you'd be asking if you should have bought a Ruger.

Every gun, from every manufacturer, is an island to itself. Some guns are excellent, some not so much, even within otherwise identical models. Ya just gotta hope the odds are in your favor, and you get a decent gun. When not, ya just gotta make the manufacturer be responsible for making it right. I know it's distasteful when it happens, but we have little other reasonable choice.

WAYNO.

 

[Rumrunner]

Definitely call Ruger and get a shipping label. As said they have good customer service.

Like WAYNO said, any maker can have issues. My buddy bought a new Savage with the Accu-Stock in 204 Ruger and the stock broke in half first time at the range.

 

[gramps]

Why the "H" would anyone pull the trigger without the bolt being closed? Don't pull the trigger till ready to shoot. Problem solved for me and mine.
gramps

 

[azgunslinger]

Gramps,

You or I might not, but an inexperienced shooter in an exciting circumstance might do so. Like a follow up shot after a first shot of your life on an elk! It's not supposed to permit this, and I don't want something that does allow it. Does yours allow you to pull the trigger with the bolt not fully rotated?

 

[rugerjunkie]

I dont own an american so i cant comment about that particular rifle but...every single bolt action firearm I own will do that. Ruger rimfires , 77 MkII's , Rem 600 n 700's...the list goes on.

If it were firing with the safety engaged or firing as the safety is taken off then there is a problem. What you are concerned about I doubt will be fixed by sending it back to Ruger. Sounds like you can fix it just fine by teaching how important the rules of gun safety are though. Then in the event that a rifle does actually malfunction , it will have been pointed in a safe direction and nobody hurt.

 

[Busterswoodshop]

As stated above I would contact Ruger.

The best part is that your son got drawn for elk.
That is not an easy feat in Arizona.
Congratulations.

 

[GAO LLC]

I dont own an american so i cant comment about that particular rifle but...every single bolt action firearm I own will do that. Ruger rimfires , 77 MkII's , Rem 600 n 700's...the list goes on.

If it were firing with the safety engaged or firing as the safety is taken off then there is a problem. What you are concerned about I doubt will be fixed by sending it back to Ruger. Sounds like you can fix it just fine by teaching how important the rules of gun safety are though. Then in the event that a rifle does actually malfunction , it will have been pointed in a safe direction and nobody hurt.

+1
That's how you store a bolt gun un-cocked, other than dry firing.

 

[Chief 101]

I just tried firing 3 different rifles with the bolt handles halfway down and they all fired, unloaded of course bit I can't imagine the firing pin even protruded the bolt face. I did this to a Ruger American like yours, a Rem 600, and a Savage 110. All with factory triggers. I think you clean action and barrel then lube bolt lugs properly...if closing bolt is not smoothe at that point time to send it back....these are my sentiments and only count for what you paid for them...good luck with getting this rifle shooting properly

 

[gramps]

Gramps,

You or I might not, but an inexperienced shooter in an exciting circumstance might do so. Like a follow up shot after a first shot of your life on an elk! It's not supposed to permit this, and I don't want something that does allow it. Does yours allow you to pull the trigger with the bolt not fully rotated?

I have no idea if they do, cause I don't pull the trigger till I am ready to shoot. Good luck on the hunt
gramps

 

[robertkirksey]

There is no excuse for manufacturing a firearm that will fire out of battery. The results are much too serious.

 

[gramps]

There is no excuse for manufacturing a firearm that will fire out of battery. The results are much too serious.

No one knows for sure if these will fire out of battery, cause all the "testing" has been done unloaded. What can be said is that when the trigger is pulled, it sounds like the firing pin is released. That does not mean the firing pin could actually impact the primer, until someone tests it with either a loaded round or a round with only a primer.
gramps

 

[azgunslinger]

Gramps, you are right, the firing pin is "released" but does not move forward with the bolt in partial closed state. However, the firing pin does move forward when the bolt is rotated closed, and that is definitely with enough force to discharge. No I didn't test with paper, much less a live round, but it is the same speed and momentum as when the bolt is closed and you pull the trigger. Somewhat academic now, I sent it back to get serviced. I'll let you know when the new one comes back. I hope the next unit does not behave the same way.

I'm pretty simple about such things. The trigger should only release the firing pin when the bolt is fully closed, the safety is off, and the trigger is pulled. Anything else is too dangerous. The FFL I handed it to to ship it back said, "Oh my gosh! That's definitely not right." He went on to say about this model - that since it was shorter than most - the compact model - that with a kid pulling the trigger and it not going off, there's no telling how he might rotate the gun in an unsafe manner to check out why it didn't fire. All he'd have to do is move the bolt a little more closed, deliberately or accidentally...and: BAM! I'll let you know if I hear anything specific back, but I'm not expecting to have a definitive answer at this point...just a working rifle.

While I'm on the forum, thank you all for your replies and input. You guys seem like a great community. I hope I can remain a loyal Ruger enthusiast and chat about more pleasant topics in the future! Maybe post a few pics of my son's first elk? Here's hoping! Thanks again!

 

[azgunslinger]

to add a bit, I say 'partial closed bolt' in the first line. In as much as I am fairly certain the firing pin wouldn't move enough to set off the rifle in that state, I am far less certain the bolt is closed. I should just call it open. Its a 1/2 rotation down on the bolt, so maybe "partially engaged" is the better description.

Then again, its some Ruger repairman's problem now. I did find a great article about these "economy bolt guns" from Chuck Hawks that explains in detail the cost cutting strategies. I would definitely take a read of that if you are thinking about a gun in that tier of expense. Its a very honest assessment of the shortcuts they take. http://www.chuckhawks.com/compared_bolt_action_economy_rifles.htm

 

[rugerjunkie]

Hate to burst anyones bubble here but I really doubt it will be any different when it comes back from Ruger. When you work a bolt , it catches on the trigger and starts compressing the firing pin spring as you move the bolt forward. Hit the trigger any time during that process and it will release. Its that simple. They all do it. There is not a problem unless the safety is on and you can still pull the trigger...or it goes off with the safety engaged and the trigger is not touched at all.

Everyone is here to help but I think you are chasing a problem that doesn't exist. I have 30+ bolt actions in the safe from numerous different manufacturers and every single one of them does like you describe. The fix is keep the safety on if you can work the bolt with it on (some models can't) , keep fingers off the triggers , and always keep it pointed in a safe direction.

 

[9x19]

Hate to burst anyones bubble here but I really doubt it will be any different when it comes back from Ruger. When you work a bolt , it catches on the trigger and starts compressing the firing pin spring as you move the bolt forward. Hit the trigger any time during that process and it will release. Its that simple. They all do it. There is not a problem unless the safety is on and you can still pull the trigger...or it goes off with the safety engaged and the trigger is not touched at all.

Everyone is here to help but I think you are chasing a problem that doesn't exist. I have 30+ bolt actions in the safe from numerous different manufacturers and every single one of them does like you describe. The fix is keep the safety on if you can work the bolt with it on (some models can't) , keep fingers off the triggers , and always keep it pointed in a safe direction.

I agree, and all of mine from Winchester, Browning, Remington and Ruger (77s included) all behave the same way.