Coyote Traps

Mike J

Hawkeye
Joined
Aug 5, 2007
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5,351
City & State/Province
GA
Just got off the phone with a family member. She & her 16 year old son live close to us. They have 18 acres that backs up to a river. The tract next to them is 90 unoccupied acres. They had been talking about hearing coyotes in the woods. Tonight the coyotes were trying to get onto her back porch to get to her small dogs. She went out & emptied a revolver shooting at them (their current armory consists of a Charter Arms .38 & a single shot .410). She seems to think she hit one but is unsure if she killed it. I told her I will bring my AR by & leave it with her for a bit but I'm thinking trapping is probably the most efficient way to eradicate the coyotes.

Any tips on what type of traps to buy & what to use for bait. I don't want to spend money on something that doesn't work (isn't strong enough) & I would prefer not to harm the other wildlife. Just want to get rid of the coyotes.
 
Trapping them sounds like a lot of work. And with 90 acres just next door, I bet there are A LOT of coyotes to be trapped. And there will be other animals getting caught up in the traps as well. Good luck.

In another thread, I believe it was Pat who said they don’t seem to like bright lights. How about a better defense perimeter around the house?
 
First thing; Check the State laws about trapping & what kind(s) are allowed or not. Next,, look at the trapping season & what's required to legally trap. She may live in a place where a Depredation Permit is available,, (usually free,) to protect personal property.

Example; Here in NC we have a free permit system for depredation of problem wildlife,, and trapping can be done anytime under that permit. BUT,, the best trap is normally a snare,, yet, NC does not allow the use of snares for coyotes,, unless it's an expensive Collarum type. Plus the log you have to use for the Collarum is a PIA!

Actual trapping,, coyotes are smart, and it would be BEST if she got a person who traps for coyotes all the time to actually do it. Here in NC,, we can use foothold traps, but the process of knowing HOW to set traps to actually CATCH the coyotes can be hard initially.

I'd STRONGLY recommend she get a knowledgeable trapper to help if that's the route she'd want to take. ESPECIALLY right now,, as it's trapping season in most states.

No matter what kind of trap you try to use,,,there is ALWAYS the very real possibility of catching a non-target animal. Other dogs, cats, possums, raccoons, bobcats ALL get caught by knowledgeable trappers often enough to where a person can have some serious issues with neighbors.

There is no guaranteed "coyote only" trapping system. (The Collarum is close,, but can still catch foxes & bobcats.)

Shooting them is actually a pretty good control method. They learn quickly that a spot can be "dangerous" if shot at. But it to isn't 100% effective.

GOOD fencing,, properly built to keep critters out is the best, long term control method for small places. Even if you kill or trap the immediate ones there,, others can AND WILL move in later. Good critter deterring fencing is NOT built like most fences,, and has been the best option for the people I work for. If a large piece of property is to be protected,, then a few other animals that are enemies of coyotes is an option to consider. Many ranchers use Donkey's, or Great Pyrenees dogs to protect things.

Remember,, even killing all of them right now,, doesn't protect against their relatives from moving in later.

I know these things, because I'm a State Certified Animal Damage Control Agent,, and I do this for a living.
 
Having helped run a trap line, or two, re-read this;

contender said:
First thing; Check the State laws about trapping & what kind(s) are allowed or not. Next,, look at the trapping season & what's required to legally trap. She may live in a place where a Depredation Permit is available,, (usually free,) to protect personal property.

Actual trapping,, coyotes are smart, and it would be BEST if she got a person who traps for coyotes all the time to actually do it. Here in NC,, we can use foothold traps, but the process of knowing HOW to set traps to actually CATCH the coyotes can be hard initially.

I'd STRONGLY recommend she get a knowledgeable trapper to help if that's the route she'd want to take. ESPECIALLY right now,, as it's trapping season in most states.

No matter what kind of trap you try to use,,,there is ALWAYS the very real possibility of catching a non-target animal. Other dogs, cats, possums, raccoons, bobcats ALL get caught by knowledgeable trappers often enough to where a person can have some serious issues with neighbors.


They aren't like mice. You don't just bait a trap and drop it in place. Location, proper placement, scent control, correct trap, covers, stakes, what to do after a miss to stop educating them, the list goes on and on.

Shooting is the best option for DIY. (you still need to check the game laws though)
 
I will check Georgia DNR"s website about the applicable laws. I was looking for a solution that wouldn't require a great deal of my time. I will do more research.
 
Contender is right about checking local regs. Where I’m at there is no season, so trapping is allowed year round. And he’s right about them being smart. But they can be baited quite easily.

Here we are required to use traps that won’t harm the animal to protect unintended trapped animals from harm. We also have a law that requires trapped yotes from being released elsewhere. You must either kill them of release them where trapped. It prevents folks from simply relocating animals to someone else’s area. Although we have pros that advertise they don’t kill the animal but relocate them. The folks are either lying or violating the regs.

On fencing, I’ve seen them scramble over 8 footers. A modest fence with an electrified top section works. But those aren’t legal here anymore. The darned bleeding hearts convinced local legislators they were cruel. Of course, they got that one passed underhandedly.
 
There was a Great Pyrenees over there a couple of years ago but it killed a neighbors chickens so it now resides at my mother-in-law's. I saw her post on Fbook last night & called offering to come over. She said she thought they were gone but this a.m. when I got up I saw they had returned more than once. I've had family from out of town in today but was going to go over with my AR tonight.
My wife said some of their home town folks had went over trying to call them in. I will call in a little while to see what is going on.
 
We're not in the trapping business as Contender is BUT I'll tell you flat out an amateur setting traps is the best and quickest way to educate any/all coyotes in the area.
Likewise, simply dropping by with a Great Pyrenees dog is totally worthless. I'm in the livestock guard dog business and that's NOT the way it works.
 
I'll leave the trapping to the professionals. I honestly don't know what I'm doing with this & it is why I am asking questions. The fellows that went over today didn't get anything. I offered to come over this evening & was told no. I will try to help if she wants me to or not if she doesn't. There is a fellow she let deer hunt over there this year that is trying to take care of it. I hunted over there about 10 years ago but life happened & I got busy. Between work & kids playing sports I don't really have the time.
She has several small dogs. In the evenings she puts them on her back porch which is railed & about 4 feet above the ground with the access from the stairs blocked. She said they were trying to get onto the porch.
 
I do want to say thank you to all who have responded. I have done some deer hunting but this is a different thing.
 
A short term band-aid approach would be some of the 'portable netting' type of electric fencing. Usually comes in 50-150' rolls with 'step-in' posts included. Coupled with a high joule output electric fence charger, this will seriously discourage coyotes from entering areas where the pets might be.
One local sheep man used to swear by Christmas lights as a coyote deterrent. Ran them year round on the sheep lot fence. Maybe so/maybe no, but I'm guessing the single bare 110 volt wire he had on insulators below the woven wire had more to do with repelling coyotes than the X-mas lights.
 
I'm thinking ... so you trap one... then what do you do?
there was a book I won on a Karma here a number of years back and I think I passed it on later.... it was the story of a guy growing up back during the depression at the foot hills of the Rockys in Canada... in the book he was a trapper for a while and trapped Coyotes .... it seems it is not as easy as one would think.... he had a trap laid out that he had washed and boiled to completely get rid of any human smell and set out about 400 yards from his cabin in the snow... he watched a coyote come toward it stop and then turn around and take off... he went to see what he had done wrong and finally found a wooden match about 10ft from the trap that had fallen out of his pocket.
 
blume357 said:
I'm thinking ... so you trap one... then what do you do?

That's what .22's are for. :mrgreen:

Foxes you can walk up to and use your set trowel. (2-3' long, 3" wide trowel) You point it at his nose and he'll lock onto it and not move. Then whack it across the bridge of the nose. Knocks it out. Then you stand on its chest while it's unconscious. Never tried it on a coyote.
 
"Likewise, simply dropping by with a Great Pyrenees dog is totally worthless."

Mobuck is right here. I didn't go into detail,, as I figured this wasn't really an option. I was adding to the info about what many serious ranchers do to protect livestock. But the dogs have to trained,, as Mobuck does.

Ok, by now,, you have seen that trapping isn't really a good option UNLESS you get a pro. And if you try that route, check credentials,, and past experiences. Someone who is a serious fur trapper,, AND targets coyotes is a good start,, and not (usually) expensive. They want the fur. Sadly, in Ga. the fur isn't worth much, as compared to other areas. A pro like myself,, well it can cost a lot for one to spend the TIME necessary to do it right. I OFTEN advise my customers to spend the money instead, on a good fencing system. I say again,, a GOOD fencing system. There is a trick or two to building a fence that can keep a coyote out. And it can be done w/o using electric fencing. But adding electric to it is a good idea & helps.

" In the evenings she puts them on her back porch which is railed & about 4 feet above the ground with the access from the stairs blocked. She said they were trying to get onto the porch."
Ok, the 4 ft raised part helps. Adding an electric fencing to this, on the outside all around the porch will be an excellent idea. Then, where the stairs are,, that's where the yotes will try harder to get over, or around. It concentrates them to that point. That can be both a problem AND a blessing,, depending upon what you are trying to do. If I were to do this job,, I'd first recommend the electric for the porch area,, and then, I'd set multiple traps (using ALL the necessary methods of scent control & hiding them I know,) all around the base of the stairs. And,, I'd also add a moveable (for me,) barrier made of a metal gate, barbed wire, and a separate electric fencing set-up to make the yotes that get past the CAREFULLY set traps below. All this takes work, time & knowledge.
PS; Scent control. If at all possible,, using the urine from her dogs is an excellent cover scent around the traps. Getting it where you need it is the hard part. If she has a place that a dog or two likes to pee,, and it not soak into the ground etc,,a syringe needle can suction it up, and it be moved to the area necessary. Or,, the indoor pee pads,, if used,, can be placed in a plastic container, adding a little water to them, and using gloves,, squeeze out the fluids,, using that. Again, a syringe is helpful here to prevent human scent on things. Application of this pee is also important,, but it can help cover human scent with a familiar scent they already know.

But traps do require a proper knowledge in how to build trap sets,, making them effective. If I were to set up on this,, from your description, I'd likely add about a dozen,, properly placed,, with drag poles to allow the caught ones the ability to move away from the other traps to hopefully get a multi-catch. As noted above,, miss a coyotes with improper trapping & you just educated it.
Re-read that again; Miss a coyote with an improper trap, and you just educated it!

So, in this scenario, electric fencing around the porch, and a proper barrier with electric would likely be the best option. Construct it so it's a permanent thing. BECAUSE,, if you deter the current ones right now,, they can & will return later to see if they can overcome things. And if not,, their relatives will sometimes move in & make an attempt at the little dogs.

I call this; "Co-existing with a problem to where the problem figures out I'm not worth the trouble, and goes elsewhere. But always be vigilant as the problem can & will try & return."
 
In our state we have a state program that is paid half by the county and half by the state. Each area (usually three to five counties depending on size of the counties) has a trapper. We contact the county agent and he sends the trapper out to investigate. If needed they will set traps and post signs warning the area is being trapped. At one time we also used the old m-38 coyote getters with cyanide. When that was outlawed, coyotes got out of control again so they brought the back with a weaker form of cyanide. I went to school on them and set some out, but they were too weak to kill most large coyotes. The ground up gopher guts we used as bait was not fun to carry around much less apply. For leg traps we used number four Newhouse traps with the leg stirrups modified to hold rather than break the leg. A half inch rebar stake and eight to ten foot drag chain with three point grapple was attached to the traps. We never had a coyote pull a leg out of a trap, but did have some that managed to pull the stake up and drag the whole mess off. We always found them, but I couldn't do that without pulling straight up on the stake.
We kept a female in a cage with a wire mesh bottom. Under the cage was a piece of corrugated metal with a piece of angle iron attached to the lower end. It was set on an angle to catch the urine and let it run down the metal sheet into the angle iron. A catch jar was under the end of the angle iron. That urine was the bait we used to attract the coyote. We would bury the trap with a piece of canvas cut to protect the trigger pan. A sieve was then used to cover the trap with dirt from the freshly dug hole. Once covered the area would be brushed down with a broom made of turkey feathers. A small piece of mesquite branch would be placed behind the trap and sprayed with the urine. It would take 24 to 48 hours for the human scent to dissipate even when we were careful not to leave anymore than was unavoidable. When the resident coyote would smell the branch he would usually step up to mark it. If he didn't step in the trap to do that he usually did when he was scratching the area around the branch after marking it.
The area in the OP's description had a river in the back. No matter how large the property, that river is the highway the animals are coming from. It can be anything from a running river to a dry creek bed. It can be a gully or just a ditch. But that is always their comfort zone. They will choose to travel using those if there are any to be used. I'm not just saying coyotes, all animals. Skunks, racoon, possums, and bobcats will use them also.
 
I didn't mention the pet goat that stays tied in the yard during the day & is turned loose at night (she locked him in the garage the other night when all the mess was going on). I will check with her today to see what is going on.

Gotta take the kids to indoor soccer this afternoon will call her when we get back.
 
I'd skip the traps. You might inadvertently trap a dog or some other animal you didn't intend. Same goes with poisons. Best advice is a fence (mainly to slow down the coyotes a bit and to keep the dogs from wandering) and well placed shots. Keep the dogs under supervision as much as possible. Never let them out at night without you standing there.
 
jgt has given good detailed info.

To add to it a bit.

I use a kneeling pad to keep my scent off the ground. I also use clean gloves when handling my scent free (boiled, to clean, dipped in wax to seal & protect,) traps. And as for anchors,, there are drags & there are direct anchors. Location dictates which type I use. Also,, there is a cable type that is an excellent lightweight type,, that has a piece of metal that folds out once anchored & pulled up on. (There are several types of this type of staking,, but I always use at least a 24" cable,, & prefer a 30" cable,, to allow a bit of leeway in setting.

Urine scent is an excellent cover scent & works quite well. And since most folks can't keep a live coyote to gather urine,, you can buy the stuff.

Trap placement is critical as well. He mentioned a mesquite limb,, but place it too far away, and they miss the trap,, and too close,, they can also miss it, or accidentally trip it w/o a capture.

Lots of details in coyote trapping to be successful.

Oh,, I killed one this evening when I was deer hunting. I do not let them get away if at all possible.
 
I will speak to her before the week is over & suggest electric fencing. I have helped them with different things in the past but she tries to handle her own business so I don't know how much she will let me do. She always seems to be worried about being a bother. Of course the little dogs are only part of it. She also has a goat she keeps in the yard. I have been offering to bring my AR over, show her how to operate it, let her put a few rounds through it to get the feel of things & leave it with her for a while. I will see her this weekend & see what she says.
 
If legal in your area, snares are MUCH MUCH easier to catch yotes in than traps. Set up snares on trails and you'll fill them in no time.
 
I have see educated coyotes before. One time one would not only spring the trap, but leave a cigar shaped present behind to let the trapper know what he thought of him. So in stead of the urine soaked branch, a three sided house was built complete with top from prickly pear ears. A cottontail was shot and left inside. To get to it, he had to cross the area with the buried trap. He would spring the trap and take the cottontail and leave us a present. We repeated the process three times always with the same results. Then we set the normal set but added three more traps to the set. The next morning when we checked the trap he had sprung the usual trap, but stepped in one of the new ones and while bouncing around to get free stepped in a second one. One on the right front and one on the left back. When we approached him he had a look of resignation. He knew he had played too long and had be outsmarted. He never gave an inch though. He just accepted his fate. I taped his muzzle and took the traps off. He never resisted. When I took the tape off his muzzle he never moved. He finally stood up and took about three steps. Then looked back and with a quick motion he whipped his muzzle in the air like to say "up yours, buster" and slowly trotted away. We couldn't help but laugh. It is a big no, no to ever let one go after he is caught, but who would have the heart to kill such an animal. A trappers job is to just control an out of control population not to eradicate them.
 
While live capture traps are required here, because this is an urban area I would likely still use them. I catch a heck of a lot more cats, coons, possums and skunks than I do coyotes. Those are all released with the exception of some rabid coons a few years back. Rabies took quite a toll on them, but strangely never did much to the coyotes.
 
contender said:
Using live/cage traps for coyotes can be "challenging." They aren't the easiest to get to go into cages.

Helps a lot if it doesn’t look like a cage. Burlap and green stuff seems to work. Tried commercial camouflage and they saw right through it. Pun intended.
 
You are right about not looking like a cage. Natural camo,, dirt over the wire floor, back of the cage not covered to where they can see through it are all things to do.
One trick I had to do a few times that I did deploy cages.
I wired it to where the cage door would NOT fall if one got in it. And I set 4 cages out like that in an area. Baited,, let them find & get the easy meal a few times,, (watching things with game cameras to make sure it was coyotes visiting things.) Then,, switched things by adding fresh bait,, and setting the traps. Got my pair like that. Took almost 2 weeks of work for them. The customer was willing to pay for all the work.
 
The 'boys' have caught 2 yoties and a bobcat in a full week of having traps set. That's not much considering the coyote population in the area of operation. One big male yote was caught in a location that has produced 3 catches over the past 5 years.
Far less productive than an insomniac geezer in a heated blind watching a bait pile with a nightvision scope. I plead the 5th on how I know this.
 
I'm not a trapper by any means,but seems to me if they were coming close to a house human scent wouldn't be much of a deterrant. But again, I'm not a trapper.
 
Human scent is noticed by them,, but a concentration of it where food or an attractant may be will cause them to be extra cautious. And if you are trying to get them to place a foot in a spot with a trap,, you do not want them standing back, sniffing & cautiously digging around it to see what that human left behind.
Many a trap has been dug up & moved,,, without tripping it by canines.
 
Because I deal with urban coyotes I don’t have to worry about my scent to a large degree. These critters are used to human scent and as they have no fear of man they just ignore it.

Apparently some folks are thinking I set traps in my front yard. Never tried it but my camera has picked up a few. My rear property line extends well down into a canyon and most of the property is undeveloped. The canyon is the yotes version of a freeway. I set my traps well away from my home.

The only problem I’ve had were a few neighbors who took offense to my trap and kill program. One went so far as to destroy one of my traps. What he didn’t know is I have a game camera covering the area. He ended up moving after he finished dealing with the sheriff and paying for a new trap.
 

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