Color case question.

Festus

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
51
I haven't owned a color case hardened revolver for a long time. About 30 years actually. I was looking at an old model Vaquero yesterday at the local gun shop with intensions to buy. A sweet 7 1/2" 45 that is still calling my name. The reason I put it back was a large spot on the left recoil shield that either wasn't ever colored,or it "came off" in some manner. Is it possible to have this type finish "come off"? Or, was it just missed in the process? It almost looks like there was an oil or other contamination that prevented it from taking color. Like I used to get when I tried to cold blue as a kid. Anywho,I could just call it character and head on out and bring it home. Dang it sure felt good in hand.
 
As Jim suggests, it's an "artificial" chemically applied treatment, not "true" CCH," and very superficial. Some look better than not. My Vaquero looks a touch better than the supposedly (by some accounts) subsequent improved New Vaquero process in 2005 or so. Great gun, I say call it a bit of character and live with it--or touch it up as mentioned. OR buy one of the examples out there without the glitch.

Turnbull has mastered a process with effects much closer to real color case hardening if you become so inclined. I've got one of the first New Vaqueros that is "ok" I'll probably leave alone (unless it gets a full-on customizing, caliber conversion etc) and a more recent year "just blued" New Vaquero which I'm sending to him as soon as funds allow. Unless the finish is worn such that most of the overall finish is gone anyway--a look I like too--the fixed sight Vaquero line looks nekked without CCH to me!
 
I also found the Ruger "CC" to have an affinity to rust, far more than the blued parts. It was crap that is for sure and, as mentioned above, they finally figured it out.
 
The Ruger CCH is very delicate. I've had no problems with mine but I keep a coat of Renaissance Wax on it as a protective layer.

I've read posts from others that had damage to the CCH and they sent them to Ruger and got them re-blued at no charge. I would give Ruger a call to confirm that they will refinish it at no charge.
 
If you want to keep case color more-or-less stable, try coating it with Tru Oil stock finish. Very lightly "paint" a coat all over it with your finger and let it dry.

A double barrel shotgun collector taught me this, and it has worked very well on my case-colored guns; it seems to protect the surface from corrosion, handling, water, and light. It will dull down a little after some handling and be less shiny.

Not sure WHAT it would do to the Ruger "chemical case" but it works very well on my C. Sharps Highwalls and on several Italian SxS shotguns, and a Colt "New Frontier."
 
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Mike Armstrong said:
If you want to keep case color more-or-less stable, try coating it with Tru Oil stock finish. Very lightly "paint" a coat all over it with your finger and let it dry.

A double barrel shotgun collector taught me this, and it has worked very well on my case-colored guns; it seems to protect the surface from corrosion, handling, water, and light. It will dull down a little after some handling and be less shiny.

Not sure WHAT it would do to the Ruger "chemical case" but it works very well on my C. Sharps Highwalls and on several Italian SxS shotguns, and a Colt "New Frontier."

Be very careful, I have a very strong feeling that the solvents in the stock finish would dissolve the "painted on" faux color hardening as you rubbed it on with your finger and just make a real mess of things
You might be able to get away with spraying on a couple light coats with an airbrush or something like that.
Sal
 
I bought a used 7.5 inch 44 Original Size VAQUERO that had allegedly been case hardened and re-blued by TURNBULL...an employee was selling it to finance something else. The colors are really good....I've had a case hardened COLT NEW FRONTIER and have a "pack hardened" SHILOH SHARPS...pack hardening isn't as "bright" as color case hardening. I was very impressed with the gun...only complaints are it has a RUGER factory ejector rod housing...YUCK!...and someone altered the front sight so it shoots a bit high with my 260 grain reloads; it could stand a trigger job too.

I'm seriously considering send another gun to TURNBULL for the case hardening and bluing like this VAQUERO...and include steel ejector rod housings for both guns and the replacement hammer when this gun gets a trigger job...I like SUPER BLACK HAWK hammers and either DRAGOON or HUNTER grip frames on the Original Size VAQUEROS. HOWEVER, the cost of refinshing to this level would exceed the price of the gun. OUCH!

There are serveral VAQUEROS with the blue/cch finish in the safe. They do have a certain air about them..."rode hard and put away wet" might be a good description. They're good shooters and reliable, but the cosmetics leave a lot to be desired.
 
Sal1950 said:
Mike Armstrong said:
If you want to keep case color more-or-less stable, try coating it with Tru Oil stock finish. Very lightly "paint" a coat all over it with your finger and let it dry.

A double barrel shotgun collector taught me this,

Be very careful, I have a very strong feeling that the solvents in the stock finish would dissolve the "painted on" faux color hardening as you rubbed it on with your finger and just make a real mess of things
You might be able to get away with spraying on a couple light coats with an airbrush or something like that.
Sal

Very true. The shotgun collector who was recommending this procedure was referring to the protection of GENUINE color case hardening. The Ruger finish is nothing more than a paint job....be very careful with how you clean it.......no harsh solvents.
 
EDK said:
I bought a used 7.5 inch 44 Original Size VAQUERO that had allegedly been case hardened and re-blued by TURNBULL...an employee was selling it to finance something else. The colors are really good....I've had a case hardened COLT NEW FRONTIER and have a "pack hardened" SHILOH SHARPS...pack hardening isn't as "bright" as color case hardening. I was very impressed with the gun...only complaints are it has a RUGER factory ejector rod housing...YUCK!...and someone altered the front sight so it shoots a bit high with my 260 grain reloads; it could stand a trigger job too.

I'm seriously considering send another gun to TURNBULL for the case hardening and bluing like this VAQUERO...and include steel ejector rod housings for both guns and the replacement hammer when this gun gets a trigger job...I like SUPER BLACK HAWK hammers and either DRAGOON or HUNTER grip frames on the Original Size VAQUEROS. HOWEVER, the cost of refinshing to this level would exceed the price of the gun. OUCH!

There are serveral VAQUEROS with the blue/cch finish in the safe. They do have a certain air about them..."rode hard and put away wet" might be a good description. They're good shooters and reliable, but the cosmetics leave a lot to be desired.

Where is "this"? - a pic? Also I've never had or seen an original Vaquero with a factory aluminum ERH, and I got one very near introduction, and another five years later.
 
go here--- turnbull does case finished rugers.

http://www.flickr.com//photos/48286931@N08/sets/72157628897995033/show/
 
buckeyeshooter said:
go here--- turnbull does case finished rugers.

http://www.flickr.com//photos/48286931@N08/sets/72157628897995033/show/

Not too bad at $150. http://www.turnbullmfg.com/store.asp?pid=20180&catid=19872
 
Turnaround is quick, a couple of weeks. Keep in mind you will have to send him the bare cylinder frame perfectly polished to get it done for $150. And, unless you are an FFL, you will either have to pay an FFL his fee plus shipping to get it to Turnbull or pay FedEX, etc., overnight shipping. Then, of course, return shipping. So $150 can very quickly become several hundred dollars depending upon what you can and cannot do yourself.
 
I'm fairly certain that Sharps rifles are color cased using cyanide, rather than the bone charcoal Turnbull is famous for. It's authentic and period correct for some guns but results in a different looking finish. Same colors, just more of a ripple effect.
 
Boxhead said:
Turnaround is quick, a couple of weeks. Keep in mind you will have to send him the bare cylinder frame perfectly polished to get it done for $150. And, unless you are an FFL, you will either have to pay an FFL his fee plus shipping to get it to Turnbull or pay FedEX, etc., overnight shipping. Then, of course, return shipping. So $150 can very quickly become several hundred dollars depending upon what you can and cannot do yourself.

What I thought. If "actual/OTD" $150 or even $200 (WHOLE gun shipped, minus grips) mine would've been done long ago!
 
Turnbull is the way to go with Rugers .I'm going to have him do my SBH .I have a 1899 L.C.Smith that all the CCH had worn off and I just had my gunsmith do it chemically and it looks great .If the gun was something special like a Pigeon grade then I would have sent it to Turnbull ,but since it is just a field grade feather light 12 ga I let my buddy do it .He has his own multi layer process and he can Tailor the amount of purple/red/plumb/ whatever you want .This was my wife's grand fathers gun and we didn't want to do a restoration in it just a touch up .+ since it's only a field grade gun and it top shape would only be worth some where between 600-800 bucks I didn't see the since in spending 250 bucks to have the CCH done .It needed a little more work too so for less than 200 bucks it's just like it was when he got it used in 1914 .We had the stocks refinished but left the burn marks he put in it with a cigarette while deer hunting when he fell asleep siting up aginast a tree while smoking .BTW this gun is mechanically sound and shoots just fine .I rarely shoot it though and then only with light target loads ,this thing kicks like a mule .He shot 00buck out of it He must have been a tough old bird LOL
Lou
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