Brass plating a grip frame

[Clark]

I really like the look of a brass grip frame Blackhawk but really don't care for the cost of an original or the work of an aftermarket version. After some searching on the web I came across this thread on singleactions.com:

http://singleactions.proboards.com/thread/680/brass-plated-grip-frame-complete

That thread is several years old and I tried to contact the poster but he must not be around the singleactions.com forum anymore. Obviously there is great appeal for the brass plating, even if prices have skyrocketed it looks like one should be able to get it done for $50. Fit is not an issue nor is finding the hardware. Searching the net you will find some people doubting the platings' ability to stay put on the grip frame and not wear heavily from normal use. I have no experience in this arena and I'm hoping someone here does.

Has anyone done this or does anyone have experience with brass plating?

Clark

 

[gatling]

I had this done to a stock Super Blackhawk in the mid-70s when I lived in El Paso. It looked great, but the folks you mentioned who felt the brass would wear off were right. Mine did so. I supposed you could find a way to use thicker plating or be extra careful, but it would defeat the purpose of the thing (in my opinion). I think brass is susceptible to Hoppe's No. 9, so there's also that problem. It would not be a problem if the entire grip frame was made of brass, but on a plated gun I think it would be.

Some day I will probably own a brass-grip Ruger, but I don't think I'd go the plating route again.

I had some other custom work done to the gun in an attempt to accurize it further, but it was not successful. While in my 20s, I came to the conclusion that Ruger knew what they were doing, and over the next 40 years, I've mostly left my Ruger guns stock (in fact, the only exception was installing a set of Tech-Sites on my Mini-14...and that was a good move).

You know, if Ruger did a limited run of brass-grip Blackhawks, I imagine they would command a premium and sell out immediately (depending, of course, on quantity). With their casting expertise, I think it would not be a technology hurdle for them to do this.

Ruger, if you're following this board, put me down for the first one!

 

[NorEaster]

I have contemplated this and at some point will have it done to a pair of my Ruger Old Armys.
For the price of the process to be done and for probably how long before it wears thin, I think it's worth the risk for me.
If it wears off, I'll just have it done again.
For what some are selling the frames for, one could have the process redone quite a few times.

 

[Bob Wright]

Ya'll realize, of course, ya'll have open the door very wide openfor one of the moderators to boast photos of his brass butted beauties?

Bob Wright

 

[NorEaster]

lol... it's ok I love gun porn

 

[David Bradshaw]

Clark.... you might try one of the antique car restoration outfits for information on brass plating. Most plating when applied to wear points looks like hell as it wears off. Cars with brass radiators such as the Rugermobiles are nickel plated over solid brass. Gold plating of hammers and triggers enjoyed a vogue a half century or more ago. Gold was cheaper then. Gold is soft. The original brass grip frames for old model Blackhawk/Super Blackhawks were discontinued when crybabies whined about little imperfections in the casting. I was told Ruger scrapped two whole barrels of brass grip frames to end the whining. Today, folk would climb over each other like ants at a picnic to get hold of those Ruger brass grips; alas, they are gone.

Nickel and hard chrome are hard and provide excellent protection. Nickel is said to be sensitive to corrosion from ammonia dope bore cleaner; as a practice, I've never let bore cleaner sit on nickel. Brass gets its rich appearance from thickness, not from an illusion of thickness.

I was you, I'd hold out for the real thing.
David Bradshaw

 

[BlackEagle]

If you're going to get brass just get solid brass. If you change your mind you can probably sell it for close to what you buy it for...If you want plating you may as well get gold!

 

[Clark]

gatling - I'm curious what sort of use wore the brass plating. Was this a truck gun that saw heavy use just from it's location or was holster use or just the sweat and grit from your hands that took it down?

Sure, I'd love an original but my wallet wouldn't. It does make a guy wonder how much it would cost to make a brass copy of the XR3-RED? Certainly there is some demand for it.

Clark

 

[41 Magnum]

A project for a "3-D Printer ?"

 

[Oregon45]

Gold colored Cerakote looks pretty close to brass, and without the worries about wearing through plating.

 

[flatgate]

Did someone mention "Aftermarket" brass grip frames? Yup, they show up once in a while....

 

[Hondo44]

Good thread. When my old model alum anodized grip frame wore thru I had it anodized and plated over with brass. The thickness of the brass has to do with the time it's left in the tank. So you get what you ask for. Mine never wore thru all the years I had it until I sold it to my brother-in-law, and he hasn't worn thru it. He never polishes it and neither did I.

But I didn't like the tarnished look and the smell on my hand after handling it. You can spray them with clear lacquer and re-spray when the lacquer wears thru and never wear off any brass.

But I started swapping to Ruger's stainless steel grip frames or blue steel polished and left in the "in the white" on old and new models:

But I liked the look of my Colt cap and ball with silver plated grip frames from the factory. The dark patina/tarnish starts in the corners and grooves but stays shiny like nickel wherever it's handled and really looks good to me. And no smell. If you don't want any tarnish just wrap when stored with a tarnish prevention silverware cloth. It wears much better than gold plating too.

I just finished my 1st Ruger I got silver plated over steel with double time in the tanks (and thickness). $40 at a local plating shop. No picture yet but that's my favorite so far.

 

[Clark]

Thanks for the information Hondo.

Oregon - You bring up a good point about Cerakote, I hadn't considered that. The more I think about it the more I like it but I've yet to look up any pictures.

I have read about the aftermarket brass grip frames and from what I understand there is a good chance you'll have to modify the grips to fit the new frame. I don't want to pay for a modification that requires more money to look good. It would be interesting to know what the actual costs and demand for making brass grip frames is.

Clark

 

[Hondo44]

Clark,

Here's some notes that might be helpful if you've decided to re-coat:

Norrell Moly-Resin:
Sprayed on and baked, is the very best option; tough, matches the blued steel best and the only coating with a nice semi gloss luster instead of flat black like the original finish.

Dupli-Color High heat 1200 degrees ceramic paint gives good results but dull like the original finish.

At about $6 a can it is a fair substitute for the specialty paints at $20 a can. One thing about the ceramic infused paints like Wheeler Cerama-Coat is that they only require a clean surface for application, (Wheeler Cerama Coat instructions state: "Blued or Parkerized steel and anodized aluminum can be coated as is. However, if any red rust, corrosion, or oxidation is present, it must be removed in order to assure proper adhesion of Cerama-Coat and to protect the substrate from further deterioration. Light surface rust can be removed using fine steel wool and a penetrating oil or solvent. Severely corroded surfaces should be stripped using a chemical stripper and/or a mechanical means such as a bead or sand blaster, a buffing or sanding wheel, or by hand sanding.")

If you don't want to bake it these below are cheaper but mediocre choices for durability:
Brownells Aluma Hyde II
DuraCoat
Gun Kote
Cerakote

BTW: Paints have varying degrees of resistance to the various chemicals found in cleaning/ lubricating products. It's best to limit (or avoid) exposure time to them. It’s probably best to do a test piece and expose it to the products you use.