Black Hawk Base Pin and Transfer Bar Problem

[cyclesteel]

Hi,

I just recently bought a new New Model Blackhawk in .357 and I seem to be having a few issues.

It seems as though the base pin plunger is pushing the transfer bar at too much of an angle causing the transfer bar to rub against the side of the frame when I pull the trigger. If I back the base pin out a little bit but enough that it clears the firing pin The trigger is super smooth. But when it is fully inserted the trigger has noticeably more resistance and it dose not reset completely all the time

I also had a fair amount of nasty brown reddish grease behind the transfer bar and from searching on this forum it seems I had some bluing salt bleeding. I flushed most of it out using some M-Pro 7 and pipe cleaners. It was after this that I noticed the transfer bar problem Could I have caused it by using the Pipe cleaners behind the transfer bar and under the hammer into the trigger to clean the gunk out?

Any Ideas ? should I contact Ruger? I was going to flush out the base pin tonight because I am sure some of that gunk got it there. The plunger works but maybe I can get in smoother.

 

[BlackEagle]

Something may have got stuck in there. It sounds like a good time to learn how to disassemble and reassemble if you are inclined. It is not too difficult if you have the time and basic tools. Or it should be easy to find someone to do it for you.

 

[G2]

Welcome to the Forum.
Now it's time to learn about "thatthereRuger" that goes BOOM.

Gun needs Disassembly.
Go to; Ruger.com
NEWS & RESOURCES
to the bottom
VIDEOS
then to
TECH TIPS
to the bottom left;
Single-Action Revolves
• Disassembly
• Reassembly

Manual is also on the website, Read it and Learn it.

It's not hard, find yourself a good screwdriver, Here's a good set for Ruger's; http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=920020
a little lube, I prefer Shooters Choice, http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=320634 . . . but lots of good stuff out there.

While you have it apart look for burr's. Study each part and it's operation. Ruger Single Action's are quite simple in design, that's the beauty of them.

Spray it all out, wipe it dry, I then give the whole gun inside and out a lite wipe. I use prefer RIG, but once again lot's of good stuff out there. Give the parts a lite coat of your prefered lube, then re-assemble.
Take your time, no need to force anything and don't CRANK them dern screws down. Tight but not Cranked. Shoot the gun, then re-check the screws.

Hints; Pay attention, enjoy the process, take your time, & when in doubt, ASK, Did I say take your time.

Don't worry if you run into trouble or have questions just ask, lot's of good help here at the Ruger Forum.

CLASS DISMISSED !! :D

 

[cyclesteel]

I think I am going to give it a try. I watched the video a few times and read the instructions a few times also. I do not have a screwdriver with hollow ground tips but I have a half decent driver that will work.

So you guys do not think it could be the base pin plunger? I wish I remembered if the trigger was like this before I decided to clean the gunk out

 

[G2]

NO,

The Base pin plunger pushes on the back of the transfer bar, it's purpose is to keep it pushed out far enough to clear the firing pin.

Transfer bar can sometimes be at a canted angle, that's ok.

From the back of the gun in a shooting position, , , the upper left side of the transfer bar does ride against the frame. When you get it apart the little bit of the left upper "bearing" surface usually benefits from a little clean up and smoothing out with a little 400/600 WD.

fyi.. As for the screwdriver if it's not hollow ground flat it will bugger the screws. Hardware stores have HG flat Bits that fit in a 1/4" drive screwdriver handles that are better than a brand new Craftsman. But its your gun, and new screws are only $2.50 ea :D

When you get the gun gutted, put the trigger/ transfer bar together and re-install w/ trigger pin along with the BP inserted and look/study at the operation, quite simple.
Just hold it in your hand and hold the Trigger pin in by hand, No need to put it ALL back together, just a mock-up is what I am referring too.

You will notice that there is quite a bit of "slop" in these parts. There are tolerences in places that need to be fairly close and in other places there is "slop". Transfer bars are fairly sloppy. Thickness Measurement on transfer bars are fairly tight. But to get to understanding these tolerances you need to get Shop Manual 1&2.
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15595

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=615772

 

[cyclesteel]

It was not that bad :D :D . I think the hardest part was pushing the spring down to get the trigger pin back in. I found a correct size bit but did not pay close enough attention to the actual bit driver I was using and it was a little to wide and put a mark or two on the back strap and near the trigger guard. Oh well the gun is a shooter not a safe queen.

Now to what I think the problem is. The channels that the transfer bar and paw travel inside the frame are very unfinished and ruff inside. When I stuck a patch in there to clean it out a lot of threads where pulled out and stuck inside. I am guessing that the base pin is pushing the transfer bar against a burr in the transfer bar channel. I did not want to start filing anything down so I am probably going to take it to my gunsmith and have him smooth the channels out or do you guys think I should call Ruger. Everything functions fine just the trigger pull is not smooth because of this.


Thanks again for the help and encouragement for the disassembley and reassembly. There really is not too much to the gun and it was pretty easy.

 

[G2]

That's a standard Ruger, A good gunsmith will want $100-150 to go thu all the parts and clean em up. Well worth it and it will make the gun operate very smooooth.

It's up to you and your call but you can get you a micro file set and Take Your Time, hmmmm I think I've said that before. and remove all those burrs. You removing those burrs is not going to hurt a thing, only help, don't worry about milling scratches/ marks just knock off the burrrs till you can wipe it with a patch and not leave half behind.

It's called a poor boy action job, poor boy got time, no money.

Or spend the cash and get it all slicked up.

Your profile has no Location, where might I ask. Never know when you might be a neighbor.

 

[rugerguy]

yes, if you can "see" the burrs, then by all means run a small 'Swiss' file in the channel, and clean it out, OR put a bit of 'lubriplate' ( stuff for use on camshafts) and let that work its way in ,on and around the parts inside...will help 'smooth' things out,,,,,,hell, enough time, ammo and shooting , it will smooth out on it own...........
we have found a simple deburr, works most of the time, in fact often a good soaking in kerosene, and blow it out with an air hose, gets things moving too, with out all the hassle of disassembly...I prefer the "KISS" principle.............................just "maybe" the spring/plunger, on the end of the cylinder pin is hanging up or it too may be burred, sticking.....I've seen some real "crap" flow out of the ends of them things.............

 

[tommyt]

just "maybe" the spring/plunger, on the end of the cylinder pin is hanging up or it too may be burred, sticking.....I've seen some real "crap" flow out of the ends of them things.............

Was just about to say the same and for the roughness in it take your time
and clean them up one stroke at a time
I too have been told Plane old shooting will smooth thing's out

Tommyt

 

[cyclesteel]

Thanks everybody for the info and tips And for G2 I am located in the Bucks County PA about 20 miles outside Philadelphia.

I went to my Local gun shop at lunch today and played around with some new Blackhawks and none of them had the issue I have. I also called Ruger and explained what was going on and the Gentlemen told me it should not be doing that and to send it in and they will fix it right up. So my choices are I do it myself which I really do not want to do , Have my gunsmith see what he can do $$$$$ or send it back to Ruger. Since it is a Brand New I think I will send it back to Ruger and let them fix it.

 

[J Miller]

cyclesteel,

Sending it back to Ruger is the right choice.

Joe

 

[rugerguy]

yessir, when in doubt, thats the 'best' way out........... :wink:

 

[cyclesteel]

Just got my Blackhawk back from Ruger. 1 Week turnaround and 4 days of that week where shipping. Everything is fixed and working the way it should.

Rugers Customer Service is pretty good :D :D

 

[G2]

Just got my Blackhawk back from Ruger. 1 Week turnaround and 4 days of that week where shipping. Everything is fixed and working the way it should.

Rugers Customer Service is pretty good :D :D

cyclesteel, What did the paper work say from RUger if you don't mind sharing. Curious minds would like to know what was performed.

....and did they fix the scratch?

Thanks, g2

 

[cyclesteel]

Hey G2,

They did not fix the scratch but it is tiny.


The repair order says

Hammer Replaced
Trigger Replaced
Grips Replaced ( I found this odd because I replaced the grips with wooden ones before I sent it in and it looks like the same ones where on it when it was returned)


Repair, Safety Function Check And Test Firing have been Compleated.