I have just been given a 1963 Bearcat that has been neglected for years by a relative. The Cylinder does not line up when half cocked for insertion. The rod jams. The only way I can get it to install is to insert the cylinder then drop the hammer. The rod and cylinder will then line up and I can with difficulty push the rod through. In the half cocked position or the cocked position I can see the cylinder is not lined up and the rod will not insert. It moves to right just slightly. Once the rod is inserted.. the cylinder works but not well. It will function for a couple hammer pulls but then will skip through a notch and not line up with the chamber until I rotate the cylinder back to notch. The gun is clean. The cylinder also will not spin freely when in half cocked position (it catches) unless I pull the hammer back more just slightly. Thx for comments.. Tony
Bearcat Cylinder does not line up
- Thread starter agmonaco
- Start date
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
Sounds like a damaged pawl.
Call Ruger.
It's likely they'll have you send it back for repair unless of course you have a competent gunsmith locally.
It's likely they'll have you send it back for repair unless of course you have a competent gunsmith locally.
the pawl spring and the bolt ( cyl stop ) springs have to be in the proper way, working, not sticking or dragging ( bent) as well as the spring/plunger in the right side of the lower hammer.......these are very small, easily damaged or get gunked up in time ( lack of use) and they 50 years old.............. 8) :roll: :wink:
seen MANY Bearcats the pawl spring and plunger are in "backwards" :?
and yes, these small actions (lockwork) can get finicky and fussy when NOT put back together properly, and all is aligned ..............look for any burrs in the holes of the cylinder or in the frame........ 8)
seen MANY Bearcats the pawl spring and plunger are in "backwards" :?
and yes, these small actions (lockwork) can get finicky and fussy when NOT put back together properly, and all is aligned ..............look for any burrs in the holes of the cylinder or in the frame........ 8)
Thanks Dan..(Chuck, Hittman, Rugerguy and Hunter) The Pawl spring, plunger seem to be in right and undamaged. I pulled and looked a them. Pawl is in correctly and moves straight up and out the same every time. Not sure how the pawl spring and plunger could go in backwards. I pulled pawl plunger and extracted spring. all good. I have pulled apart trigger, cylinder latch and all springs there, Pulled off grips.. All seem good in there. I am hesitant to get into this thing any deeper. I'll wind up with getting the gun apart and back together and wonder why I have extra parts. LOL I bet it's a hammer assembly and pawl issue.. Taking it to gunsmith today see what he says. If he cannot help I'll send it back to Ruger.. will let u guys know..Thanks again. Tony
contender
Ruger Guru
Welcome to the Forum!
I'd hesitate to return it to Ruger. First off, they will do the safety transfer bar safety. To many,, that's a strike against a return. BUT,,, the main reason I'd not return it to them is that with the OM Rugers,,, often,, the tech's are not as versed in working on them as they should be. They deem a gun "unrepairable" and offer a new gun as a replacement. A guy over on the cast boolits forum just had an OM Bearcat,, an "Alpha" cat, that they did this. Ruger keeps the old gun, to destroy, and replace it with a NM.
While your gun has an issue,,, I'd get a knowledgeable gun smith to look at it. One who does a lot of Ruger SA work. The OM Rugers are fairly simple creatures & fixing one isn't too hard for someone who knows them.
I'd hesitate to return it to Ruger. First off, they will do the safety transfer bar safety. To many,, that's a strike against a return. BUT,,, the main reason I'd not return it to them is that with the OM Rugers,,, often,, the tech's are not as versed in working on them as they should be. They deem a gun "unrepairable" and offer a new gun as a replacement. A guy over on the cast boolits forum just had an OM Bearcat,, an "Alpha" cat, that they did this. Ruger keeps the old gun, to destroy, and replace it with a NM.
While your gun has an issue,,, I'd get a knowledgeable gun smith to look at it. One who does a lot of Ruger SA work. The OM Rugers are fairly simple creatures & fixing one isn't too hard for someone who knows them.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
agmonaco said:
This part you posted doesn't sound good: "Not sure how the pawl spring and plunger could go in backwards. I pulled pawl plunger and extracted spring. All good."
Not so good. The spring comes out first.
That describes exactly how it can go in backwards. And cause all of your problems.
The plunger goes in first against the pawl and the spring sticks out of the hole until you put the capture screw back in.
Also: Is the cyl pin all the way in to the rear? Can you see the back end in the hammer channel? Do you feel it lock into the front latch?
Installing cyl pin & cyl is an issue of alignment of the pawl with the ratchet teeth, and "technique" when installing the cyl. And especially sensitive on the single 10 because it has 10 teeth on the ratchet and they're very small.
The pin should not take any force to install and if it does, that's telling you the cyl is not square in the cyl window of the frame because the pawl is not meshing with the ratchet teeth.
Install the cyl w/o the pin and roll it clockwise as you feel with your left hand thumb and forefinger how it's matching up to the recoil shield at the back. It should feel flush on both sides if properly aligned. Listen for the pawl clicking properly as the cyl is rolled. Now it's aligned and you can start the oiled cyl pin into the front of the cyl. Roll the cyl as the pin is pushed in. If you feel resistance, stop pushing and adjust the cyl side to side at the back end while rolling it and listening for the clicks. Keep the cyl pin latch button pushed in while you push the pin in.
Once you use that technique the pin will finally slide all the way in easily. Wiggle the cyl a little as the pin tries to enter the rear hole in the frame. The edge of the hole is sharp and can be hard for the pin to start into it. Don't try to cock the gun until the cyl is rolling free with the pin all the way in. Now close the gate and cock the hammer, there won't be any binding.
Once you practice this, it'll be second nature and you don't have to modify the pawl.
Thank you Jim..I pulled the pawl screw and the spring came out next..then the pawl spring plunger. so that is correct. I will try again what you told me. I had a gun shop look at it. They said it was out of timing.
I just talked to Ruger. They told me they will do the safety conversion for free and repair revolver. If I reject the cost of repair they will return the revolver. The only way they keep it is if they refuse to repair ( due to too much damage) and I agree to let them keep it with the option of replacing it with another Bearcat at approximately 50% off retail.
As long as I do not agree to replacing the revolver. They will send it back. Probably a good thing to send it in. It has been neglected over the years. And it may have something bent in there due to how much force it takes to cock sometimes. It looks great though. Tony
I just talked to Ruger. They told me they will do the safety conversion for free and repair revolver. If I reject the cost of repair they will return the revolver. The only way they keep it is if they refuse to repair ( due to too much damage) and I agree to let them keep it with the option of replacing it with another Bearcat at approximately 50% off retail.
As long as I do not agree to replacing the revolver. They will send it back. Probably a good thing to send it in. It has been neglected over the years. And it may have something bent in there due to how much force it takes to cock sometimes. It looks great though. Tony
Pat-inCO
Hawkeye
My first question is . . . .
what did Ruger say?
what did Ruger say?
Hondo44
Hawkeye
Did they Ruger send you a free mailing label.
If not call back and ask them to do the safety conversion, then you'll get the free shipping. For you to ship is expensive!
The safety conversion replaces all the parts that have to do with timing, sp there should be no repair costs.
You'll basically have a New Model Bearcat when you get it back. Because unlike the other New Model Ruger SAs that are machined differently than the old models; the New Model Bearcats are made the same as old models but just have the retrofit safety action kit installed.
You'll get your old parts back unless any are un-serviceable. If you want to switch back to the old parts but use the new wider hammer from the safety conversion kit, let me know, there's a simple way to do that.
If not call back and ask them to do the safety conversion, then you'll get the free shipping. For you to ship is expensive!
The safety conversion replaces all the parts that have to do with timing, sp there should be no repair costs.
You'll basically have a New Model Bearcat when you get it back. Because unlike the other New Model Ruger SAs that are machined differently than the old models; the New Model Bearcats are made the same as old models but just have the retrofit safety action kit installed.
You'll get your old parts back unless any are un-serviceable. If you want to switch back to the old parts but use the new wider hammer from the safety conversion kit, let me know, there's a simple way to do that.
Yes Hondo, they sent me the free label.. It is arriving today. Be interested to see what is wrong with it. Thanks.. Looking forward to the conversion and fix. I had a gun enthusiast buddy call me yesterday and said, "NOOOOOO!! don't do the conversion, It will devalue the firearm and it won't shoot as well." Well I am not a connoisseur like he is. I am sure it will be just fine. and work better than it does now.. that is for sure.
