George
Blackhawk
I am loading 45 ACP. I have the Lee Carbide 4 die set with the extra crimping die . Loaded 100rounds with IMR X700 5grains Lead FNSWC 200 gr bullet. They will be run in a 1911. What say you all? Thanks for yor help! George
.45acp crimp or not
- Thread starter George
- Start date
Sagebrush Burns
Single-Sixer
Taper crimp, no need to over do it.
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
Yes ,taper crimp them. That is what that die is intended to do. Use it!
I would suggest you buy a Dillon cartridge gauge and use it to check your loaded rounds. They should freely drop into the gauge and make a " plunk" sound as they hit the chamber shoulder. Some people remove the barrel from their gun and use it as a plunk gauge to test their loaded ammo for proper chamber fit.
I would suggest you buy a Dillon cartridge gauge and use it to check your loaded rounds. They should freely drop into the gauge and make a " plunk" sound as they hit the chamber shoulder. Some people remove the barrel from their gun and use it as a plunk gauge to test their loaded ammo for proper chamber fit.
Skoopski
Blackhawk
45 ACP in a 1911 (and single action) headspace's on the case mouth, must be taper crimped. You can roll crimp if your using a double action revolver with moon clips. Hope this helps.
powder smoke
Hawkeye
What Chuck said if you crimp, I do not I depend on neck tension and do not expand the mouth of the case.
A bit of a pia at times starting the bullet in the case at times tho. ps
A bit of a pia at times starting the bullet in the case at times tho. ps
OP
George
Blackhawk
Thank you all, I did decide and crimp them all with the factory crimping die that came with the lee Lee 4 die set. I will use a barrel and perform the plunk test with all rounds. Thanks again George
Personally, I have no use for a Lee handgun FCD. Once I learned to correctly adjust my dies, all my reloads feed and chamber problem free.
I do not "crimp" any semi-auto rounds as I just use a taper crimp die to straighten out any flare in the case mouth; I "de-flare" with a taper crimp die. Neck tension has held all bullets in place in my .380, 3, 9mms, and 2, 45 ACPs.
I do not "crimp" any semi-auto rounds as I just use a taper crimp die to straighten out any flare in the case mouth; I "de-flare" with a taper crimp die. Neck tension has held all bullets in place in my .380, 3, 9mms, and 2, 45 ACPs.
Bill Wilson used to furnish load recommendations when he built you a gun. In the recommendations for a 45 it said to taper crimp .468-.470" at the case mouth.
I've used those dimensions with favorable results for tens of thousands of rounds thru a dozen different pistols.
I've used those dimensions with favorable results for tens of thousands of rounds thru a dozen different pistols.
Lost Sheep
Single-Sixer
One fact. Brass is springier than lead.
What does that fact mean to us in the context of this thread?
Reasoning: If your taper crimp squishes the brass and bullet to a smaller diameter than before the crimping, the brass springs back more than the bullet springs back. Thus, there is less grip of the brass on the bullet. Like loosening your belt.
The taper of the taper crimp means that the brass and the bullet may be squished to a (very moderate) cone shape, providing bullet retention (just as your belt around your waist keeps your pants from sliding down over your hips). Get your calipers and (try to) measure it.
The Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) has a post-sizing ring in it, which under certain circumstances, may exacerbate the "spring-back" problem, thus the FCD has gained a reputation with some people as a problem. Undeserved, if you understand how the FCD works.
Friction, not mechanical grip provides the greater amount of bullet retention.
I hope my thoughts help. Thanks for reading.
Lost Sheep
What does that fact mean to us in the context of this thread?
Reasoning: If your taper crimp squishes the brass and bullet to a smaller diameter than before the crimping, the brass springs back more than the bullet springs back. Thus, there is less grip of the brass on the bullet. Like loosening your belt.
The taper of the taper crimp means that the brass and the bullet may be squished to a (very moderate) cone shape, providing bullet retention (just as your belt around your waist keeps your pants from sliding down over your hips). Get your calipers and (try to) measure it.
The Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) has a post-sizing ring in it, which under certain circumstances, may exacerbate the "spring-back" problem, thus the FCD has gained a reputation with some people as a problem. Undeserved, if you understand how the FCD works.
Friction, not mechanical grip provides the greater amount of bullet retention.
I hope my thoughts help. Thanks for reading.
Lost Sheep
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
I think we are all saying the same thing but using different words.
Full length resizing gives a tight friction fit of the bullet. Belling the case mouth allows the bullet to be started in the case for the seating die to seat the bullet. Taper crimping removes the excess belling and brings the case mouth into spec. Over doing any one of these steps can cause problems.
Example,trying to seat a .453" bullet and then using the taper seating die to bring the loaded round back to spec. would result in a loose bullet as stated above.
Using a case gauge and proper die adjustments will bring it all together to end up with proper ammo.
Every set of new dies I ever bought came with instructions on just how to make all of the steps come together and load good ammo. It's not Rocket surgery ,as they say!
Full length resizing gives a tight friction fit of the bullet. Belling the case mouth allows the bullet to be started in the case for the seating die to seat the bullet. Taper crimping removes the excess belling and brings the case mouth into spec. Over doing any one of these steps can cause problems.
Example,trying to seat a .453" bullet and then using the taper seating die to bring the loaded round back to spec. would result in a loose bullet as stated above.
Using a case gauge and proper die adjustments will bring it all together to end up with proper ammo.
Every set of new dies I ever bought came with instructions on just how to make all of the steps come together and load good ammo. It's not Rocket surgery ,as they say!
Lost Sheep said:
Thanks Sheep. Haven't read such a good explanation on line in quite a while. I've had these facts in my head most of my reloading career, but have a hard time getting my fingers to relate them... :lol:
New reloaders should print this post and keep a copy with their reloading manuals...
OP
George
Blackhawk
Then would it be good enough to go with just the bullet seating die? The Lee die set info said that the bullet can be set if a crimp is desired to screw the die in slightly and test for proper crimp.. I'm just guessing at this but I would think you would have to back off on the bullet seating adj. first then readjust the die a little deeper for the crimp.. Can I then adjust the bullet seating adjustment to just touch the seated bullet at this point and then not have to do this in a two steps if I decided not to use the forth die "factory crimp die" on my next .45acp rounds and just use the bullet set die for the last step.. George
Also I have a .44 magnum Lee 3 die set. I have never used. Do I need to by a 4th Factory crimp die for that set? Or can it be used as is.. Again thanks!
Also I have a .44 magnum Lee 3 die set. I have never used. Do I need to by a 4th Factory crimp die for that set? Or can it be used as is.. Again thanks!
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
Yes, that is exactly how to adjust the bullet seating die. It will seat bullets with or without taper crimping depending on how it is adjusted.
I prefer to seat and crimp in separate operations and using two different dies. It can be done either way.
I prefer to seat and crimp in separate operations and using two different dies. It can be done either way.
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