45/70

[volshooter]

Does anyone have a few brass or perhaps an old set of dies to sell? I would like to load a few for my 73 Trapdoor Springfield. I don't need many. I plan on using 2f black powder. I would like to shoot this fine rifle a few times a year.

 

[loaded round]

It is my opinion that you would get better results by placing an ad in Ruger classified section. Good luck.

 

[volshooter]

well saidand point taken, thanks

 

[Skalkaho Slim]

Believe I got just what you need. PM sent.

 

[loaded round]

I'm glad to hear that. Good Luck and good shooting.

 

[Sgt Garcia]

I have that to do also. Have several old cans of BP and an even older trapdoor that needs to be shot. I have dies,
bullets and brass, all I need now is time.

Dennis.

 

[jeffnles1]

Lyman 457125 520gr soft lead round nose
63gr Goex 3F
Compressed about 1/8"
card wad
Larg Rifle standard primer

Have fun.

This load has been accurate in all my 45-70's (trapdoor, 1874 Sharps, Rem #1 Rolling Block).

Jeff

 

[volshooter]

Thanks Jeff! I happen to have a few cans of 3f. I will post further as member is about to "hook me up" with dies and brass.

 

[jeffnles1]

Thanks Jeff! I happen to have a few cans of 3f. I will post further as member is about to "hook me up" with dies and brass.

I made a plug the same shape and length as the bullet I'm using to compress the powder (made from piece of hickory dowel rod).
I drop the powder through an 18" drop tube (copper pipe with a brass funnel soldered to the top). then place the card wad over the powder and compress with the plug in the bullet seating die. Once I have 50 seated, I then seat the real bullets.

Using the softish lead bullet to compress the powder can mess up the nose.

You can do away with the drop tube but the load would be compressed more since the drop tube settles the black powder in the case.

The blackpowder loads in a 45-70 are crazy accurate.

A lot of guys use 2F. When I had my original Trapdoor, I used a lighter bullet (405gr) and the same volume of 2F (BP is typically loaded by volume). 2F is a slightly slower burn (well explosion since BP goes off differently than smokeless).

On a modern made gun with an action 3F burns a lot cleaner and I found more accurate.

On your Trapdoor, I'd probably try the 2F first. I shot 3F in my trapdoor but it had proven itself strong and in good shape with a lot of rounds through it before I went to the 3F load. I'd suggest safety first.

Be sure the action locks up tight and the gun is safe if it is an original.

60 +/- gr 2F, 405gr bullet (same profile as the 550 but about 1 grease groove shorter) and same loading procedure.

For the first couple shots with an old original trapdoor, I'd figure a way to grip the trigger with a string while the gun is secured just to be sure nothing is going to let go.

I put well over 2,000 rounds through mine before I sold it and had no problems. Even the 1883 Buffington sights are not very precise.

Have fun with the new rifle. Looking forward to pictures and a range report.

Jeff

 

[volshooter]

Thanks Jeff, good tips and I like your safety practices. I have bout half a box of Remington kleebore loaded to the trapdoor carbine specs. My pal looked it over and said it looks good to go. Good rifleing and no rust/pits in the bore. This is my first collectable. The bore is not bright and shinney but it is old. Guy it was bought from said he had shot it with standard loads for this rifle. We know him and trust his word, but I will be safe.

I'm gonna have fun with it!

Rick

 

[powder smoke]

I use to have a 45 70 and believe I've got a couple boxes of empty cases if you are still in need send me a pm. ps

 

[volshooter]

Thanks powder smoke, I will remember that. If you want to PM me and price your brass please do so. I am sending a PO money order in the AM to a fellow member for dies and brass, but I like to have lots of brass.

 

[jeffnles1]

Volshooter,
With your Trapdoor, the battle sights (sight down) should be sighted pretty close to minute of bad guy accuracy at 200 yards.

If you're shooting black powder and want to shoot more than 4 or 5 rounds without swabbing, make yourself a blow tube. I just use a piece of plastic tubing (rubber is OK too but can taste pretty nasty). Just get a size that will fit into the chamber, anywhere between 3/8" and 1/2" is OK.

The purpose of this is to open the breech, stick in the tube and blow 3 or 4 long breaths through the bore. The moisture from your breath will help keep the powder fouling soft, especially the first several inches of the bore. Even with a blow tube, I always swab a blackpowder cartridge tun every 10 or so rounds. Accuracy will start falling off as the barrel fouls.

Ballistol mixed 50/50 with water works about as well as anything. Also, I have used Simple Green mixed about 60% water to 40% Simple Green. It works. Heck, for my muzzle loaders, I've used the blue windshield washer solvent. The trick here is water and some type of surfactant to break down the powder fouling. Do not use something like Hopes #9 or any of the solvents made for smokeless. If you do it once, you'll never do it again. The oil in those mix with the blackpowder and make a proper mess.

If I'm going to be shooting it more, moisten a patch, put it over your jag and push it through the barrel (you will get gunk in the chamber area, so take another patch and wipe that out with your finger. You're set for another 10 rounds (assuming you're using the blow tube).

At the end of the day, run several patches through the barrel until they come out clean. Then several more dry patches until the bore is clean and dry. Take a moist patch and clean off the action (breech face and trapdoor and the area under the trapdoor and then lightly oil) I usually take the lock off and make sure it's clean in there. A drop of oil on the tumbler/sear and a drop of oil on the bearing surface where the mainspring rides on the tumbler and put it back on the stock.

Lightly oil the bore and you're set (run a couple dry patches through the bore when you're ready to shoot again to get the most of the oil out of the bore - like with any gun, most people use too much oil, all you need is a coating).

If you haven't shot it yet, when you shoot a full charge of black powder, it's going to kick a little more than you think it will. Be sure you have a firm grip or it can get your attention pretty fast.

A lot of people shy away from black powder becuase they have heard it is a pain to clean up. If you take a look at the method above, it's 10 - 15 minutes from start to stop and that is if you're taking your time.

For cleaning, just remember, soap and water (or ballistol and water) instead of oil based smokeless powder solvents and cleanup is a snap.

Guess you can tell, I'm partial to blackpowder. 90% of my shooting is with flintlocks. There's a thread over in the gallery somewhere of a couple of my rifle builds. Here it is:
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=162190
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=153236

Have fun. Looking forward to a full range report (complete with photos!).

Jeff

 

[volshooter]

Thank you Jeff, I'm going to save and print your post! I had not even thought of oil based lubes/cleaners untill your post. Looked at a Sharps carbine repro for $750 and an origional for $1200. Out of my pay scale right now, but soon.

 

[powder smoke]

volshooter, got a pm.