38 Spec Brass v. 357 Brass

[sjs]

I am loading 38 Special brass for my 4" GP 100 and would like to experiment with hotter loads, without going to 357 brass. I assume I am safe with +P loads because it is a .357 revolver but can I go a little hotter, into .357 velocities (just a bit)? The revolver should be fine, but is 38 special brass insufficiently strong to handle it. I am thinking about 5 to 6 grains of HP38 with a 158gr XTP.

I know I can just use the magnum brass and be done with it, but I am curious about the safe range of 38 special brass. I am using fairly new Starline brass.

 

[5of7]

I have done it many times over the years.

When shooting a quality revolver of a size equal to the Smith K frame, And using a propellant that has a burning rate appropriate to the task, getting the 158 gr. cast or jacketed bullets to 1000 fps is no problem at all and will not damage said revolver.

If you don't own a chronograph, buy one. It is practically indispensable when doing this sort of thing. 8)

 

[wwb]

It won't cause you any problems other than the buildup of a ring of crud in the cylinder at the mouth of the .38 case which, if not cleaned regularly and thoroughly, can be a bugger to remove, and will prevent a .357 from chambering.

Since you're a reloader, why not just use .357 brass for everything? You can everything from load mouse farts to full-power loads in .357 brass.

 

[nvbirdman]

My answer would be a big NO.
There is always a chance that one of those loads would find its way into a .38 revolver and be seriously overpressure.

 

[Chief 101]

My answer would be a big NO.
There is always a chance that one of those loads would find its way into a .38 revolver and be seriously overpressure.

I have to agree with this even tho I do load 38's hot, I don't recommend it for this reason...I did load some 200gr lead in 38 cases at one time real hot but they were too long to fit into any 38 I know of...they were for long range steel targets.

 

[mikld]

The main thing to remember is the case capacity of the 38 is smaller and if 357 loads are used, the pressures and velocities will be higher. The brass will take it, but the pressures may be a WAG, and not safe for the gun. I would go to +P loads in 38 Special brass if I wanted more Ummph! outta my 38 brass, and use 357 Magnum brass for my magnum loads.

I'm the only one to shoot my handloads and they are clearly labeled. If someone "mistakenly" used my hot 38s in their old J frame, oh well, they shouldn't be shooting someone else's reloads...

 

[DGW1949]

I am loading 38 Special brass for my 4" GP 100 and would like to experiment with hotter loads, without going to 357 brass. I assume I am safe with +P loads because it is a .357 revolver but can I go a little hotter, into .357 velocities (just a bit)? The revolver should be fine, but is 38 special brass insufficiently strong to handle it. I am thinking about 5 to 6 grains of HP38 with a 158gr XTP.

I know I can just use the magnum brass and be done with it, but I am curious about the safe range of 38 special brass. I am using fairly new Starline brass.

Lacking proper pressure-testing equipment and proper facilities, my answer would have to be no. I mean really, the mere fact that your question was proposed to people you don't even know while using the phrases "I assume", "a little hotter", "should be", and "just a bit?" should have been all the clue you needed.

And to what realistic purpose other than to see how far you can go?...which itself implies that the only truthful answer to your question is to go all "Elmer Keith" and "load it 'till it blows, then back off a little". :lol: :lol: :lol: .

DGW

 

[Jimbo357mag]

There is no difference in modern brass between the two and in theory the 38special brass should be able to contain magnum pressure but there is no 'good' reason to load 38special brass extra hot for a 357mag gun if 357mag brass is available. 357mag brass makes cleaning the chambers easier also.

 

[woodperson]

Curious as to why you are loading .38 brass for the .357?

 

[sjs]

Not many places to buy supplies here, and I wait to order online until I can get free or low shipping. Just starting to load .357 now, been loading 38 and have 38 brass. Wanted to have some fun experimenting with new loads until I can get some .357 brass.

 

[pruger45]

I've shot thousands of 38's loaded with 13.5 grains of 2400 under Elmer's bullet in a S&W model 19 over the years with no ill effects! Also through a Uberti Colt clone.

 

[DGW1949]

Not many places to buy supplies here, and I wait to order online until I can get free or low shipping. Just starting to load .357 now, been loading 38 and have 38 brass. Wanted to have some fun experimenting with new loads until I can get some .357 brass.

Yeah, I get all of that...so far, so good...it's the other stuff mentioned in your OP that is sending up the red flags. But hey, if you are intent on venturing out on your own, be my guest. You certainly don't need anyone's permission for that.

Good luck and may the force be with you.

DGW

 

[Rick Courtright]

Not many places to buy supplies here, and I wait to order online until I can get free or low shipping. Just starting to load .357 now, been loading 38 and have 38 brass. Wanted to have some fun experimenting with new loads until I can get some .357 brass.

Hi,

At the risk of sounding like my old gunsmith boss who wasn't particularly tolerant of some things people do or ask about, why not just go to Starline, cough up $80 and order 500 of 'em, which they'll ship for free? And rather quickly, at that. I think the order I got last week took three days from MO to CA even with weather along the way. I'm with the others here who suggest hot loading your .38s could lead to unintended and possibly unpleasant side effects. Just about the time someone says "It'll never happen to me...", well, we all know how that line ends!

https://www.starlinebrass.com/brass-cases/357-Mag-Brass/index.cfm All the work's done for you except to pay and tell 'em where to send it!

Rick C