22/45 fails BIGTIME

[.22andyou]

My 22/45 tactical lately just shoots one round before jamming.
When i inspect the gun the next round is pushed up from the mag against the still in the chamber chilling fired cartridge.

When i remove the mag the squezed round falls down the magwell. But to get the fired round out the chamber is the funny part. Its is stuck so bad that the ejecting hook slides off of it.

You have tofight it out with a flathead meanwhile trying not to scratch up your entire gun.

I hope you guys can help me with this one. Cleaning it after shooting with a boresnake an Oil. Shooting Cci standart velocity. Shooting a lot with a compensator but the barrel looks clean as far as i can tell.

 

[Gator89]

Welcome to the Ruger Forum.

New gun?

Approximately how many rounds through the gun before extraction problems began?

Do you have a brass brush that you could use to give the chamber a good scrubbing?

One thing I would check is the extractor, referred to as "ejection hook" in your post, it could be damaged or have some other issue. The extractor spring could be weak or damaged, causing the extractor to slip off the casing.

Can you get a good, clear picture of the extractor to post on here?

 

[Mobuck]

^^ What gator89 said to which I'll add: has there been a history of 'dry firing' with this pistol?
PLUS: 'fighting the fired case out with a flathead screwdriver' may not have helped the situation.
The basic 22/45 is a dependable design that can handle use/abuse so your problems CAN be corrected.

 

[arfmel]

Sounds like you have a rough or dirty chamber, and/or a bad extractor. I agree that the first step would be to use a brass brush and a good solvent to clean the chamber and barrel more thoroughly than the bore snake and "oil" can. The cleaning rod can also be used to push a stuck empty case out of the chamber.

Look at the empty case when you get it out of the chamber. Does it have obvious scratches?

I'd also try a couple of different types of ammo. That might be the simplest solution for the problem.

You stated that there is a "compensator" on your pistol. It's possible that could be contributing to the problem. Was this factory, or an add-on? If it's an add-on, did the problem start after the compensator was installed? So many times we see problems develop after people modify their pistols. That’s why I ask.

 

[blume357]

The experts here know what they are talking about, the cleaning and polishing the chamber is the first and easiest option and hopefully the solution. If the extractor is the problem then that kind of leans toward finding a good local gun smith who can compare it to another 22/45 (one of the main reasons I like to have two of everything) there are those here who have the ability and courage to fix things like this on their own gun... I have in the past had the courage or possibly just novice ignorance to take a semi-auto apart and believe me it is not for the faint of heart.... the first time I did this it took me two days to get the damn thing back together.... I got better with the second gun it was only a day. I'm such a woose that I have not tried to brake down my Ruger 22 in probably over 10 years.. This is a MK3 and I still think you need a doctorate in mechanical engineering to figure that puppy out.

 

[GunnyGene]

There's full disassembly/reassembly videos of practically every firearm ever made on youtube. Not all of them are worthwhile of course, but many are. Quite a few are by the factory experts, such as Henry for their guns.

 

[Dan in MI]

1st- ANY modifications to the gun or magazine?

2nd- use a cleaning rod to push out the fired case. Prying and scraping is never good.

3rd- all the scrubbing and inspection mentioned above.

As stated it sounds like a dirty or damaged chamber.

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!!!!!

I too suggest reading all the above posts,, and start with a careful & proper cleaning. Then,, after that,, try a different magazine. Sometimes the magazine can be the problem.

But the prying out of the fired case made me cringe a bit.

Using a magnifier to really study up close the chamber, extraction area,, as well as the extractor would also possibly lead to the problem.

Lots of good info above by my fellow Ruger Forum folks.

 

[Hertervillian]

I would try a few different types of ammo. Mini Mags being the gold standard for most uses, doesn’t mean something else might not work better. I have a rifle that simply will not extract Browning match type ammo, I’ve decided the rim is too thick .

Nylon brush in the chamber (I’d chuck it in a drill, but that’s me) I’d slather it with JB bore paste or Flitz let it eat a bit. Examine extraction hooks clean up that area well, might a bit of something lodged in there.

 

[.22andyou]

Wow! i wasnt ready to get that much response and especially positive/constructive response.
Thank you verry much. I will try all like advised and give you a response afterwards.
any sugestions on the which solvent to use?

 

[XUSNORDIE]

Welcome aboard. That pistol is a very reliable pistol. I've never had an issue with my stock MKIII 22/45 or my "customized" MKIV 22/45 Tactical .......SV is SV.....clean the bolt good with a decent name brand solvent. Oil well with a name brand oil or CLP.
You didn't say if it was new, used or modified.....make sure you have the right mags. There is a difference.

All my semis I shoot a lot of mini mags to ensure it is good to go before using SV ammo.

 

[kmoore]

Not mentioned, add several gun cleaning brushes with Nylon and brass brush. Along with A dental pick or a brass 1 made for gun care. Both of those will get debris off the bolt face and chamber face.

 

[arfmel]

Hoppes Number 9 is the traditional solvent. There’s others that are good too.

 

[Sam Summey]

In my experience most semiauto problems are related to three causes, one, improper understanding of how the firearm operates and how to properly clean it and two, the owner trying to fix number one by self-modifying parts "to make it run better". 22 LR ammo is inherently dirty and grimy, the crud from the ammo builds up quite quickly. I have seen Ruger Standards, regardless of the "Mark" so dirty that the bolt will hardly go to battery, the feed ramp hardly visible. The need to disassemble past field striping rarely happens. Attention should be paid to the bolt face, removing the crud that accumulates in the cartridge head recess and making sure that the extractor is functioning properly without undue accumulation of the abovementioned crud. A squirt of brake cleaner and a blast of air is usually sufficient followed by a drop of oil. Clean the accumulation of the crud that builds up around the feed ramp again brake cleaner and air will work wonders, for the really baked on stuff a toothpick works. The third problem is user induced, magazine abuse, fully loading a magazine and the "popping" the magazine follower multiple times hammers the feed lips open allowing the cartridge to extend too high and missing the chamber. This is illustrated by a chamber edge mark in the middle of the soft lead bullet. or shaved lead off of a chambered round.

 

[Blackhawk Convertable]

I have one gun in particular that needs the higher velocity MiniMag or Aguila HV ammo to function reliably. That is, to EJECT reliably. If you problem is EXTRACTION, then I agree with what has been mentioned about cleaning and polishing.

 

[kmoore]

I like the statement " .22lr is inherently dirty and grimy."
Especially when talking about Semi-auto. The bolt face, chamber face, feed ramp and all moving parts need attention. Barrels can take more abuse without proper cleaning than the other items.

 

[Mobuck]

For the OP: It's been commented on previously but here's a reminder: a 'blow back' 22 semi-auto works differently than a 'locked breach' centerfire. When fired, the case actually pushes the bolt rearward while the 'extractor' generally guides the case against the 'ejector'. The initial movement of the slide may cause the extractor to slip off the rim if the chamber is grubby or the extractor is damaged or not moving properly leaving the case in the chamber.

 

[OMCHamlin]

I like the statement " .22lr is inherently dirty and grimy."
Especially when talking about Semi-auto. The bolt face, chamber face, feed ramp and all moving parts need attention. Barrels can take more abuse without proper cleaning than the other items.

I had always been told that more .22 barrels are damaged by poor cleaning techniques then being "shot out". Steel rods, segmented sections, cleaning from the muzzle, etc.