1977 M77 220swift

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BadMatrix

Bearcat
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Northern Virginia
Hi,
Just got back from the range and zeroed this rifle with a new scope that has not been shot in some time. The rifle is terrific but we experienced a few rounds that would not eject. I think if we pulled the bolt back with more force it would indeed eject.

Are there any obvious reasons rounds might not eject?

I found the m77 manual and noted a recall on this rifle.
thanks
 
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T.A. WORKMAN

Hunter
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Mar 24, 2006
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MANSFIELD, OHIO USA
First of all I would take the bolt apart check the extractor and clean and re-lube it. Next check your headspace with go-no go gauges & chamber for roughness & give it a great scrubbing.
Factory ammo or reloads ? Check the case heads for signs of excess pressure ?
Swift case necks tend to stretch rapidly so if reloads were used were they properly trimmed to spec's ?

My guess from your description would be the extractor & spring.
Best of luck,
Terry
 

BadMatrix

Bearcat
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THANK YOU. Reloads….This session was also to get my first fire formed brass that I reloaded from brass I just bought. I anneal, trim, measure, bump and remeasure. I use a go nogo gauge! All the reloading stuff from me is to spec…. It's the other stuff.

This M77 did not have a "T" under the bolt handle and I wrote Ruger and they are sending out the recall kit for the trigger travel screw.

The rifle is in beautiful shape. I disassembled a ruger bolt last year and it was an SOB when I turned the doohickey too far and couldn't get it back to where it needed to be. I had to take the bolt to a kermudgeon gunsmith who fixed it on a modern rifle.-lame I know-but that spring is mighty strong. I will search for a video to service my M77 bolt. Thank you.
 

BadMatrix

Bearcat
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A simple task goes horribly wrong….
I turned it counter clockwise after cleaning a tad too far.
It's all it takes to ruin my day.
Is there an easy way to realign the bolt? Okay is there a hard way to do this?
 

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BadMatrix

Bearcat
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FOUND A SOLID STRAIGHT EDGE AND WAS ABLE TO HOOK AND TURN IT.
Panic over….packing for a trip with this kind of issue was stress inducing.
 

AZ10X

Bearcat
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Sun City, AZ
Not quite sure why you would anneal new brass as most of the reputable makers anneal necks before it is sent out. Did you full length size the brass before you loaded it?
 

BadMatrix

Bearcat
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I was coming back to make a post when I found this post I made on the very same topic last year.

Here is the new issue. Same as the old issue.
If i cannot get more answers i will start a new post or take it to a gunsmith or send it to Ruger?

M77 in 220swift. I took it to the range today. It misbehaved a little. It would not eject spent cartridges consistently unless I railed on the bolt. Opening the bolt upwards the last half inch was a chore as was closing the bolt. This could be issues with reloading so I am processing everything right now. Issues with the bolt: lubrication?
Any ideas!
 
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IIRC the M77 is a Mauser type ejector. The force applied pulling the bolt rearward will affect the ejection of the fired case. Haul it back like you mean it and the ejection will improve. Pull it back slowly and the case may just fall back into the action or dribble out onto the shooting bench. That's the way it's supposed to work.
Hard opening/closing the bolt could be due to lack of lubrication of bolt internals. It could also be due to a 'tight' chamber, oversize cases, or bolt lug setback(most unlikely).
The tapered shape of the 220 Swift case is (or has been for me) difficult to work with and finicky.
 

BadMatrix

Bearcat
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Messages
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Location
Northern Virginia
Absolutely spot on with rearward force….fast, they eject, slow they just fall back into the action.

Next two issues will be bolt and and action lube.
Then, particular attention to reloading and chalbering.
 

AZ10X

Bearcat
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Sun City, AZ
The Swift is one of the rare calibers that needs to be full length sized after every firing. Do you have any fired cases from when you did not have an extraction problem? If not, do you have any new unfired cases. Once you tell me that I can advise you how to proceed.
 

BadMatrix

Bearcat
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The Swift is one of the rare calibers that needs to be full length sized after every firing. Do you have any fired cases from when you did not have an extraction problem? If not, do you have any new unfired cases. Once you tell me that I can advise you how to proceed.
That's a no and no.
 

AZ10X

Bearcat
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Logically, there can only be two causes of your problem. First, it can be your rifle. If it is a factory Ruger rifle you can rule out a short rifle chamber because all factory built rifles are test fired before leaving the factory. The other rifle related item could be a bolt problem. You will have to disasseble the firing pin assembly from the bolt shroud. Do not remove the firing pin spring. Inspect all parts of the bolt (interior and exterior) looking for broken or sheared parts or areas. Clean the firing pin assembly and the inside of the bolt shroud with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Re-lube the assembly and shroud with silicone spray. Do not oil or grease. Put a dab or grease on the inside of the bolt lugs only to prevent your lugs from gaulling. Do this everytime your clean your rifle. The last rifle related issue could be a large carbon build up in the throat area of the barrel. You would need to bore scope the barrel to determine if that is the problem. If there is a large carbon build up it can cause the case neck to be difficult to chamber and extract. To remove a heavy carbon build-up is nothing short of serious heartburn. There are many posts concening resolving this issue. If these two items do not correct the problem you will have to look to the brass cases. First measure the overall length of your cases. They should not exceed 2.200 and should be trimmed to 2.195. With a Swift the length must be checked after every firing. Next, the extractor groove should measure appoximately .442 . The case base (rim) should measure approximately .468. The case web (area just above the extractor groove) should measure approximately .446 1/2. (these measurements are based on Winchester brass but all brands should be close). If all of this checks out you will have to get a new unfired case and buy a .264 neck die bushing (Wilson or Redding). Slip the bushing over the neck of the case and measure from the top of the bushing to the face of the case base. This will give you a arbitrary datum line. Measure your brass and compare the measurement to the new case measurement. If your brass measures less you are setting your shoulders back too far with your sizing die. If your brass measures more you are not setting your shoulders back enough when you are sizing your brass. You should be setting your shoulders back .002 to .003 from a measurement taken from a fired case that was fired in your rifle. Shoulders for a Swift should be bumped after every firing with either a F/L die or a shoulder bump die. My best guess is you either have a bolt problem, over length brass or a throat carbon problem. Good luck solving your problem.
 
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I have ONE Swift, a re-barreled 98 Mauser. I used it for a while but decided the very slight advantage it gave over a 22/250 wasn't worth the aggravation of building ammo that worked. :unsure:
 

BadMatrix

Bearcat
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Messages
93
Location
Northern Virginia
Logically, there can only be two causes of your problem. First, it can be your rifle. If it is a factory Ruger rifle you can rule out a short rifle chamber because all factory built rifles are test fired before leaving the factory. The other rifle related item could be a bolt problem. You will have to disasseble the firing pin assembly from the bolt shroud. Do not remove the firing pin spring. Inspect all parts of the bolt (interior and exterior) looking for broken or sheared parts or areas. Clean the firing pin assembly and the inside of the bolt shroud with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Re-lube the assembly and shroud with silicone spray. Do not oil or grease. Put a dab or grease on the inside of the bolt lugs only to prevent your lugs from gaulling. Do this everytime your clean your rifle. The last rifle related issue could be a large carbon build up in the throat area of the barrel. You would need to bore scope the barrel to determine if that is the problem. If there is a large carbon build up it can cause the case neck to be difficult to chamber and extract.
Three.
It's not the rifle.
I disassembled the bolt, looked for obvious issues and lubed last year.
DUH…..
I put the rifle in the vice and I worked the bolt. Nothing wrong there….

It is the ammo.
I resized one. Cleaned it off and chambered it. The bolt was happy!
I grabbed a non-sized brass and chambered it. The bolt was hard to open and close.
I have ONE Swift, a re-barreled 98 Mauser. I used it for a while but decided the very slight advantage it gave over a 22/250 wasn't worth the aggravation of building ammo that worked. :unsure:
i ran into resizing issue with this cartridge. Dialing a median headspace value wasn't easy….is this a thing?
 

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AZ10X

Bearcat
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Sun City, AZ
Sizing the brass has reduced the neck OD. Measure the neck OD on the un-sized brass. If it is larger than .260 that is the problem caused by the brass manufacturer. If it is less than .260 you probably have a severe carbon ring.

Case headspace is a major issue with the Swift. Due to the angle of the shoulder it moves forward with every firing. This is exactly why I told you that you have to resize and push back the shoulder .002 to .003 after every firing. Again, you need to buy a .264 neck bushing and establish datum line on the shoulder and check every piece of brass after firing.
 
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