10 22 BX trigger

[Cofaler]

So I bought one of Ruger's BX trigger set-ups to put in my older scoped 10/22 Carbine, which has the metal trigger housing. I just couldn't bring myself to replace it with the plastic one. I suppose I could have swapped the internals, but I put the whole BX rig in my other much newer 10/22 which had a plastic housing anyway.

I'm pretty happy with the BX trigger considering the price. Can you get just the improved hammer and trigger without the housing? How do the stock hammer/triggers take to some gentle stoning just to clean them up? Are they case hardened?

Are the older hammers and triggers superior to the newer ones, is it vice versa, or does it matter? I have an extra set to play with now.

 

[dobegrant.45]

There are YouTube videos showing what to polish or you can buy the components from companies like Voquarten or Tandemkross here is a link
https://tandemkross.com/ultimate_trigger_kit-ruger-1022

 

[Cofaler]

I watched 1 or 2 youtube videos that seemed a bit hokey to me, I'm sure I'll land on a good one but haven't really spent a ton of time looking. I'm really trying to do this on the cheap.

 

[dobegrant.45]

Check out these guys
https://www.mcarbo.com/ruger-10/22-installation-videos.aspx

 

[JAYDAWG]

Check out these guys
https://www.mcarbo.com/ruger-10/22-installation-videos.aspx

Might be good........ an hour video, yikes!

I have over twenty 10-22's with upgraded triggers, VQ, TK & BX.
All are definitely upgrades over stock, either metal or plastic.
But, after replacing 20 plus triggers on my shooters, these guys are the best.

https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Tr...Sear-Disconnect-and-Trigger-blade-_p_196.html

I have enough stock, hammers, sears and disconnects, to experiment with, so I do my own now.
BUT, I ruined at least 4 sets until I figured out what to do, and what not to do.

Buy the Kidd.
IMHO the best.

Cheers,
JAYDAWG

 

[TestEngineer]

Buy the Kidd.
IMHO the best.

Cheers,
JAYDAWG

Kidd is certainly the best. BUT it's important to note that Kidd only guarantees their kit to work in the plastic housing. Apparently the metal housings were made to looser tolerances.

It's a crap shoot if the Kidd will work in the metal housing. I would probably give the home spun trigger job a chance before dropping $$ on the Kidd kit. JMO

 

[kmoore]

I watched 1 or 2 youtube videos that seemed a bit hokey to me, I'm sure I'll land on a good one but haven't really spent a ton of time looking. I'm really trying to do this on the cheap.

Cheap and great trigger won't be equal. Spend your time, maybe trial and error. Or spend some money. BX triggers are nice, some better than others. I would never buy 1 by mail when you can visit a store that has a pile of them to try. I did that in Cabela's years ago. Yep, it took 15 mins to try all of them. I quickly had 3 or 4 top triggers set aside. The packages unless they changed allows you to test the trigger in the package.
I once spent about 20 hours making a trigger in a M1 Grand much better, and I did. Is time money, yes.

 

[Alro]

So I bought one of Ruger's BX trigger set-ups to put in my older scoped 10/22 Carbine, which has the metal trigger housing. I just couldn't bring myself to replace it with the plastic one. I suppose I could have swapped the internals, but I put the whole BX rig in my other much newer 10/22 which had a plastic housing anyway.

I'm pretty happy with the BX trigger considering the price. Can you get just the improved hammer and trigger without the housing? How do the stock hammer/triggers take to some gentle stoning just to clean them up? Are they case hardened?

Are the older hammers and triggers superior to the newer ones, is it vice versa, or does it matter? I have an extra set to play with now.

Very interesting. I’m considering one for my Ruger Charger .

 

[Cofaler]

I think it's interesting Kidd will only guarantee their stuff in a plastic housing, but I can see where the plastic ones may be more consistently in spec. I am wearing a Glock right now and I own more Glocks than would seem reasonable to some, so I'm not sure why I'm anti plastic in a 10/22...

I also own a few target rimfires, and although I own 10/22s I really haven't shot them much at all. I bought my older carbine used years ago, and the newer one I have I took in trade from an older friend who really wanted a .22 lever gun so I traded a Marlin 39a Mountie. He loved it so much I couldn't say no (on his 80th birthday). I hated the cheap plastic stock on the Ruger so I bought one of the M1 Carbine wanna be stocks from E A Brown and a Tech Sight for it, and since it was on the bench I started screwing with the triggers.

I'm trying to avoid getting too much deeper into this rabbit hole, I have been known to sink a lot of money to build something from a 'free' part

Based on what I'm getting from you guys, I think I'll mess around with the extra hammer and trigger I have and see what I can do with it, and if I screw it up there's always ebay.

 

[Watertender]

I have used BX triggers on several of my 10-22's with great results. I have 2 International pattern rifles and 2 short 16" barrel straight grip stock carbines that I have built. All 4 are fantastic firearms and are a pleasure to shoot.
The short carbines are a special favorite of mine. They shoulder perfectly and line up fast with the TruGlo sights on them.
The Internationals have a feeling that makes them comfortable to carry and use.
Both styles are best used with the original 10 round rotary magazine. The BX25 makes them look awkward and ungainly.

 

[wproct]

If I still owned a 10/22 rifle I would definitely own a BX trigger. You know, the plastic trigger assembly housing really doesn't bother me much. The plastic is really tough, probably as tough as the aluminum, and the color is throughout the plastic so if you scratch it no touch up is required. One of my newer Remington 870 Express shotguns has a plastic trigger housing assembly and I've never had a problem with it.

 

[RC44Mag]

I did a BX on my 10/22 a couple years and wish I did it so much sooner. A vast improvement over the stocker. Plastic doesn’t bother me at all.

 

[Mobuck]

All this discussion of 'plastic' reminded me of an AR15 I have. The only 'metal' parts in the lower are the springs and pins. When I still had my FFL(prior to the first AWB), I bought a bulk pack (10) of complete lowers. During that crazy price hiccup, I sold all but one for a 'significant' profit. AFAIK, all worked well enough. I haven't used the remaining specimen much but it does work.
I wouldn't be worried about plastic fire control parts in a 10-22.