Which Is Better Trigger/Hammer Upgrade For 10/22 With Metal Housing

Delbert

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Missouri
This may of been talked about before, but was wondering which would make for a better shooter with a change in the trigger pull setup for my SS 10/22 which has the metal trigger housing.

I've seen the BX drop-in setup and all the reviews, but just not in love with the plastic housing nor for what looks like a plastic trigger for the modest sum of around $70. Also, inline with this, also seen and people speaking of going with just the hammer and trigger w/sear/springs that they say is all one needs without the extra cost of a housing for less than $50. Gives a 2.5-3# pull from their tests (?).

I've heard that sometimes the BX guts won't work in a metal trigger housing, but I'm good with tools and know how to work on guns carefully if some metal needs removed either on the parts or within the housing if you've done it.

I've also looked at the Volquartsen system that will have the trigger w/overtravel adjustment screw/match hammer/springs/shims and hammer spacers to center within the housing. The price is around $75. Gives a 2-2.75# pull by their info.

Don't know if changing out just the springs for lighter compression will help, but willing to know if possible and keep it safe and how was the action afterwards for the cost of around $20 and while sear and hammer is out, also doing a going over to polish and remove any burrs. Pull #s unknown. I have a well stocked home/farm store that has drawers galore filled with springs to choose from if this is the cheapest, while being a great way to go, with your results.

Your all's thoughts on this and what you've done to make your 10/22 trigger better, while keeping things looking stock, but a nice surprise when you pull the trigger.
 
Anything VQ or Kidd is top of the line. I have both and can't tell the difference.

Sounds like you are good with tools.........do it yourself.
Polish everything up and try it. Not enough? Some emery paper where the sear & disconnect meet and even on the hammer will make it better. Go slow, I have ruined a few when learning. But it's not that difficult. If you do it yourself, about all I would recommend is a lighter trigger plunger spring, it helps the pull#.
If you do muck it up beyond repair, VQ & Kidd can bail you out with new kits :cool:
Good luck & keep us posted!

Cheers,
JAYDAWG
 
Check but Kidd does not recommend using their drop-in-kit in the older metal housing. Of course plenty of internet postings on success doing so.
 
@JAYDAWG, thanks about the trigger plunger spring. I always thought it did the job of the reset and not so much involved with the trigger poundage. Been the late1990's since I've been inside a 10/22 housing playing around for a better trigger pull.

@rem58sport thanks, didn't know that about Kidd drop-ins. They were always just a bit more expensive compared to others in what you got, but they have been around a long time.

I still remember when Butler Creek was in business and sold many aftermarket 10/22 parts and used one of their trigger kits when I built a custom 10/22 in the very early 90's. I still have that gun and it could shoot the head off a fly if it got onto the target with it's 20"(?) bull barrel. I had mounted a Bushnell 6-18x50A/O scope when they still made decent ones. Been a safe queen for many a year when 22LR ammo dried up back during King O's rule. That's when I went to 22Mag and 17HMR route as that was plentiful in my area to still do hunting and plinking.
 
I've tried the 'farm and home' store spring replacement into a firearms application a couple of times but didn't work for me.
I've used KIDD and VQ parts here and there with good results. My advice: get parts from one of those brands and don't look back.
I second Mobuck here.

As much as I love finding a clever solution on the cheap (and I’ve done it many times in different areas), the drop in components from Volquartsen, Kidd, TandemKross, etc. are going to give most the best and easiest results. The good news is that if you like to tinker, some makers, particularly Volquartsen, offer many of their kits’ components as individual items that you can try out individually or together.

For example, you don’t want to spring for the full Volquartsen 10/22 drop in kit? A number of people started with their hammer, and found it made a significant improvement. You can always add the sear later, since the individual parts added up come out about what the kit would cost, so you’re not getting gouged on the individual pieces. Polishing up the stock components, as Jaydawg suggests, adds more improvement in most cases, and you have the satisfaction of having done it yourself.

Don’t want to spring $120-$165 for a Ruger Mark II kit? Get their $33 sear. Consensus seems to be that that alone makes a real improvement. Most people don’t realize that the Ruger Mark I,II, & III adjustable sight models all came with an adjustable overtravel screw built into the trigger. The challenge is that you have to pop the trigger out in most cases to adjust it, but if you enjoy tinkering, it’s just not a big deal. I got the last one I adjusted just right on the third try, but I had fun doing it. I still had a small amount of pre travel, but I like a bit of “roll in” to the break in some of my Marks. (I’ve never decided whether I prefer the “glass-break” or the “roll in” feel to a trigger. I like them both in different pistols.). In any case, it’s well worth the time to search online to see what others have tried and found to work/not work. You’ll find much more and better information than just asking for opinions on this one forum, as good as it is.

The piecemeal approach can get more costly due to shipping costs, but that’s one reason I prefer OpticsPlanet, as they have free shipping over $49, which is easy to get to. Add in that they very often have significant discounts on Volquartsen that can be further increased with their rotating additional 8%-12% discount codes, and you can make out like a bandit, since the only add-on is your area sales tax. They also have an excellent app, but you can do everything through your preferred browser just as easily. Browse through their Volquartsen lineup:

https://www.opticsplanet.com/s/volquartsen

All that said, the BX is a huge improvement over stock. I dropped one into my 1989 standard carbine, and it gives me about 80% of the improvement I got from my full Volquartsen drop-in kit. The synthetic housing is just not an issue. (I plan to fit the original metal housing with a Franklin binary.) I lucked out a bit, as the red trigger one I got came in at the very low end of their published range of trigger pull weights, but even if it had come in at the high end, it would have still cut the weight in half and been so much smoother.

We all have a lot of choices available these days. Hope you find ones that please you.
 
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You've got the good housing. Don't replace it. Improve it. Skip the BX. Do the polish/springs first as a learning project. Then, if you want that final 20% of perfection, drop in the Volquartsen kit. You'll end up with a trigger that rivals custom rifles, all hiding in that classic, stock-looking metal pack.
 
I also have an older 10/22 with the aluminum trigger housing. Kidd states that the composite trigger housing is actually a better product - the holes are in the same location on all of them - not so with the aluminum part! I dunno. I'm not competing, and I don't see me spending $350+ for a trigger setup. I'll probably find the Volquartsen kit in stock somewhere and try that. I may regret it later, but they have a good rep.
 
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