10 22 bottom screw

[tstex]

Hello to all,

First post, so I appreciate your help.

Wanted to break-down a 10 22 rifle I bought and for the life of me, I cannot get the bottom screw to budge. I have left the rifle upside down and let penetrating oils soak in for weeks now, and the screw will not budge. I have used the correct f-head screwdiver, but no going. Does anyone have a recommendation? It would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
tstex

 

[Cholo]

I've never had to do this on a gun, so take this with a grain of salt, especially is there's a plastic housing or something that might get ruined in the process!

I have gotten very stubborn screws out using this method:

You mentioned f-head screwdriver, I hope you meant hollow ground. Secure the device you're trying to remove the screw from and gently tap (I'd probably use a plastic bullet puller) on the handle of the screwdriver while applying modest torque to the screw. "Gentle" and "modest" simply mean don't attack it! Usually that will cause it to break free. If it's starting to come out but still feels tight, apply some more penetrating lubricant and let it sit. Take your time, don't let the screwdriver slip, and don't apply enough torque to ruin the screw or the screwhead.

Good luck! Hopefully someone else will come along and give you an even better method.

Welcome to the RF where we give out all sorts advice, most of it good...usually :wink:

 

[JTGant]

sounds like you cross-threaded it the last time you had it apart...
you could be SOL ......

 

[tstex]

Yes, hollow grd and I have never had the screw out before...if it is cross-threaded, I am not aware of it...i just beleive it has not been out
before..about a 15-17 yr old rifle...Yes, I did try tapping on the screw too.

Before I really knew much about tools, I learned a lot about them when I restored an old John Deere 1951 MT tractor...many old bolts that were either rusted in and/or bolt heads broken off...drilled-out the shafts or removed with reverse bits/easy outs...hope it does not get to this.

Once this screw is out, it should come out much easier from this pt on w/ regularly scheduled maintenance and cleaning...thx guys, tstex

 

[Cholo]

Hmmm... You seem to be doing it right. In an ideal world you would make the screw cold to shrink it a tad. It's like skinny dipping with your GF and you jump into ice cold water and... :wink: I remember one really hard to get out screw I was about to give up on and take drastic measures. I couldn't heat it with a torch, but did heat it with a hair dryer for a few minutes and bingo! It's worth a shot and can't hurt.

Hopefully you'll get some tips from the pros who have a lot of experience with stubborn gun screws like this. Let us know what finally works. I doubt it will come to drilling/tapping if the screw isn't buggered.

 

[rugerguy]

tap harder, and MORE leverage.....lock the gun upside down "firmly " in a well padded vise....if you have to, use a drill press ,right sized driver bit, and lock the spindle down, firmly, and BY HAND turn the spindle...have never had to do this with ANY 10/22 ever, usually a big enough screw driver, ,lots of downward, firm pressure and it should turn out, doubt its 'cross threaded'...just corroded in place..........heat or cold would be a bit too far away from the source of the corrosion,slather it in penetrating oil ,better yet ,use 'Kroil'..........
too many people try to take screws or sights off, with the gun "balanced' on their lap ( over their knees) BAD move all around..........

 

[Pinecone]

tstex, Welcome to the forum! The best way to get frozen screws out, and trust me, I have done hundreds over the years, is with a "screw jack". This is similar to the drill press idea suggested by rugerguy. I prefer it as I can get more torque delivered. As noted, it was either cross threaded or it's "rusted" in. I made my own screw jack years ago. I believe B-Square has one they sell through Brownell's. The "big" thing to watch for is that your screw driver tip must fit the screw "slot" fully and exactly so the torque is fully transfered to the screw and "not" just to the slot! I use a 3/8 drive Ratchet to apply the torque. Any local "competent" gunsmith should be able to provide this service if need be. One "last" note. Bring the gun to him "before" you mess the slot up!..........................Dick :wink:

 

[tstex]

Great timing...just got to the ranch and logged-in...

I am going to take an older "heavy-duty" screwdriver and lock it in the vice and grind it down until it perfectly fits the head of the screw. I mean both lenght and thickness...if this does not get it out, I will take it to the right gun-smith and let him do it...more than likely I will ask him to replace the screw with a new one that meets all of the orginal spec's.

Once I try loosening it with the new tool, I will let you know what happens...I also had left some PB Plaster on the screw since last weekend so that should give it an extra boost...I will also make sure I finish the custom made SD with the finishing lines that run perpendicular to the tip/shaft to get the extra bite/grip.

Thanks again guys, appreciate both the help and the welcoming.

Regards,
tstex

 

[tstex]

Well....nada. the head I made fits the center of the screw perfectly, but not on the edges because the screw head has been worn-away by someone...I hope the gunsmith will have his bag of tricks...

Thanks guys and I will let you know,
tstex

 

[Pinecone]

There could be a chance that someone used epoxy or super strength locktite to secure that screw. If that's the case, then the "best" fix is to carefully mill out the head of the screw with a proper size end mill to get the stock off the barreled action. The gunsmith should be capable of doing this without chewing up the stock!...................Dick :wink:

 

[Mobuck]

Soldering iron held firmly on the head will heat the screw after a short time w/o harming a wood stock. If it's synthetic, use more care but it will still work. After heating the screw head, drip some Kroil around it then try the screwdriver tapped with a hammer trick for good measure.

 

[tstex]

Thank you for the suggestions guys.

I had a good old country boy take a chisel to the screw and he tapped it with a hammer to where the taps were applying pressure in a c-clockwise motion. The stock was securely set in a vice. After tapping with the chisel, I took my custom made screwdiver and he applied full pressure down while I had vice grips on the bottom and applied the c-clockwise torque..,did not move a millimeter...

I have used pb-blaster penetraing fluid, but I will buy and try the Kroil, then after soaked in, I will heat with soldering iron...the stk is wallnut, while it looks like the screw is set in brass. If this does not work, then it is gunsmith time...I have never used a gunsmith, but was just curious to know what it should/will cost to remove the screw and get a much better replacement. If I do take it to the gunsmith, is there anything else I should have him do while it is there? The 10 22 is about 17 yrs old.

Again, thank you very much for your help, it is appreciated.

Regards,
tstsx

 

[Pinecone]

With all do respect, I would not go with the soldering iron or any kind of heat. The time for heat will be "after" you get the stock off the screw! This screw is definitely "in there" like no other! The kind of high heat you would need would definitely damage the stock. That brass you see is an escutcheon that is "fixed" in the stock itself. I have had a lot of experience taking out difficult screws in my time as a gunsmith and if it were brought to me, I would "mill" out the head of the screw. Once the head is gone and the stock is off the barreled action, then you can actually see what is holding the threads of the screw and approach it accordingly!...............Dick :wink:

 

[tstex]

Thanks.

The only other option would be to take my punch, pop a hole directly in the middle of the screw, then with a 1/8" drill bit, drill a hole enough for my reverse bit in the c-clk-wise mode and see if this can take it out...If I did not this, would this prevent or inhibit the g-smith from being able to better remove the screw?

Thx again,
tstex

 

[Snake45]

With all do respect, I would not go with the soldering iron or any kind of heat. The time for heat will be "after" you get the stock off the screw! This screw is definitely "in there" like no other! The kind of high heat you would need would definitely damage the stock. That brass you see is an escutcheon that is "fixed" in the stock itself. I have had a lot of experience taking out difficult screws in my time as a gunsmith and if it were brought to me, I would "mill" out the head of the screw. Once the head is gone and the stock is off the barreled action, then you can actually see what is holding the threads of the screw and approach it accordingly!...............Dick :wink:

I'd have to agree with this advice. Mill off the head of the screw, and then get the rest of it out after you get it out of the stock. I think the only alternative is to cut the stock off of the gun, and screws are cheaper than stocks, especially nice old walnut ones.

 

[Fox Mike]

Another 'trick', so the screwdriver tip doesn't slip, is to place a little Comet, Bon Ami, or similar cleanser in a small container and dip the screwdriver tip in it before placing it in the screw head. You can then place a bit more torque on the screwdriver than you normally can.

 

[tstex]

UPDATE:

OK guys, I tried everything suggested; it is still a no go.

Took the 10-22 to a gunsmith, and he used every tool he had and could not get it out and said he was going to have to drill it out...I asked for an estimate and he said probably $50.00. I paid $197.00 for the rifle, so now 25% of the purchase price to remove the screw?...is this correct? Plus he said he was going to have to order the screw...

A friend suggested sending it to Rugar and I called them and they said it might be a "no charge" to remove if I ship it to them. I asked the lady how do you determine if it "might" be a no-charge or a charge? She could not tell me.

To conclude, I do not mind paying someone a reasonable fee for their work. Is $50 + parts reasonable? Anyway, this is really turning into a nightmare, but I may not be left with any other options...

Thanks for your continued support and advice,
tstex

 

[Snake45]

Do you have a Dremel tool? If so, you could get a little stone grinder and grind the screw-head off yourself. Might take you a half-hour or so, but isn't your time worth 50 smacks?

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Do you have a Dremel tool? If so, you could get a little stone grinder and grind the screw-head off yourself. Might take you a half-hour or so, but isn't your time worth 50 smacks?

+1 Unless you are real picky for a $200 rifle I would do it myself. As said before, once you get the stock off should be pretty easy to get the screw out. 8) 8)

...JImbo

 

[tstex]

There is one thing I have not tried...

With my drill, I do have some reverse drill bits. I am going to cut/mill another groove perpendicular to the one now, similar to what would be needed for a phillips head...The bit I have will bite more. Then I am going to secure the stock with my padded vice and apply as much pressure as I can and see what happens...if the head strips out or it breaks, then I am at the point of where I was with the gun smith that was going to have to mill the head anyway...I am up for one more challenge. if this does not work, I will send it to Rugar.

Many thanks gentlemen,
tstex

 

[rugerguy]

that would be alright if the head broke off,then you could remove the stock and get at the "problem"...should have been done a LONG time ago, the suspense is killing us old folks :roll:

 

[tstex]

Dan,

I hope to end your suspense real soon - I would attempt this tonight if my tools were here, but they are at the ranch.

When the deed is done [thinking positively], I will post back. I am going to have a quick funeral for this screw one way or another.

Many thx,
tstex

 

[tstex]

Well, I am ending the suspense...I need to send this 10-22 into Rugar.

Can someone pls suggest the best [type of] place for get shipping materials to ship my .22? I have never shipped a gun before, but I was going to ship via UPS and insure it. If anyone has any good ideas on alternative shipping methods/materials or other, I am all ears. I am shipping from TX to Rugar NH.

Thank you very much guys for all your help and suggestions...sorry for dragging-out this thing.

Best regards,
tstex

 

[tstex]

Gentlemen,

I gave the 10 22 to a friend of mine that knows a gun-smith. He had to mill the head off, then heat it up because apparently loc-tite WAS used. After heated-up, he drilled into the remaining screw shaft and then removed the shaft. He crafted a "blued-screw" and it fits perfectly. Now I can consistently remove the stock to properly clean my rifle.

Well, I have appreciated all your help, and if someone else has the same problem in the future, hopefully this post can help them.

Many thanks,
tstex