Help Removing 10-22 Bolt

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warren5421

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
346
Location
Indy
I have a stainless 10-22 that I can not get the bolt out. The bar under the ejector port on the receiver is about .001 to long as the bolt hits the back of the receiver before the front clears the rail. I have no problems removing the bolt in the other 10-22's that are blued.
 
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I have found that the buildup of fouling crud from dirty 22LR shells can be an issue here. let the bolt travel forward, then apply Hopes #9 or your favorite solvent to the internals, paying special attention to the guide rod and recoil spring. use an old toothbrush to aid in scrubbing. Cycle the bolt back and forth several times to help distribute the solvent. Then try again to pull the bolt back to releases it. I have found that while holding the bolt back it is sometimes helpful to wiggle the bolt handle within the bolt to help eliminate bind between the spring and guid rod. Someone at Ruger put it together, so you SHOULD be able to remove it. Good Luck.
 
^^^ If you're going to do that, probably won't need to remove the bolt anyway.
Plan B: remove the stock & trigger group, with barrel pointed up, hose the receiver with BRAKE KLEEN, blow out with compressed air, squirt in a generous amount of your favorite spray lube, let it sit for 2-3 minutes, blow out the excess with compressed air, re-assemble and enjoy.
This may seem sacrilegious to some but it does work. My guns aren't runway model range toys, they're working tools exposed to dust, weather, and whatever 'stuff' comes along. 10-22's aren't normally 'finicky' when used with HV ammo nor do they require frequent, extensive cleaning. If the ammo being used seems 'dirty', change ammo type/brand. I (and my 10-22's) prefer Federal HVHP for daily general purpose use or Federal Auto-match for practice/range use but in reality, most domestic production 22 rimfire is acceptable for recreational use w/o creating a need for constant cleaning.
 
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