1966 Blackhawk 357 ?

akmania

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Gonna look at this this week , unconverted 357 mag 4 5/8” 3 screw 1966 model supposedly.Looks like a lot of wear in the picture,but screws don’t look “buggered “ up.
Worth $400?
I can tell more about it when I look at it on person.
 

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Yeah, I'd buy it. It's worth at least that much, just in parts....One word of caution though. The drag line around the cylinder should not be there, so do check the timing closely. It could be from being regularly mis-handled by someone who just didn't know any better, or it may be in need of some new parts.

DGW
 
What actually causes the drag lines? I see them on a lot of revolvers
 
Ok, I got 2 New Model Blackhawks 357’s and several single sixes and bearcats. A lot of them have light drag marks.

Here’s my blued Blackhawk 357
 

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What actually causes the drag lines? I see them on a lot of revolvers
Like I said, there shouldn't be one on an "Old Model" SA revolver...or a Colt SAA for that matter....In other words, unlike most other revolvers, the cylinder latch on those two does not contact the cylinder until it gets released within the little ramp that guides it into the locking notch of the cylinder....If a drag mark is present anywhere but within that little "ramp", it's either due to the cylinder being turned while the hammer is at rest (operator error) or either the hammer plunger and/or latch is worn/bent/stuck (OM Ruger), or the hammer cam and/or latch (Colt) is worn/damaged. And just so you'll know; Ruger's infamous "safety conversion" that they love to do on these old revolvers is based on some sort of action that I can only describe as "Coltish" in design, and as a result has become quite famous for causing that same type of drag mark which is seen in the photo that you posted....9 times out of 10, it's probably the former, also known as "operator error". Thing is though, it might not be, and OM Blackhawk parts are getting somewhat expensive lately AND harder to find....Hence my recommendation to carefully check the gun's timing before plunking down your money.
Sometimes what is first thought to be a good deal, turns out not to be. I've been there-done that myself. It wasn't fun.

DGW
 
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I've got one of those except the first 2 numbers are 73. I left it in care of my little brother a while and he had Ruger convert it, though they returned the original parts so it can be unconverted. Ruger reblued it while in their possession. It had quite a bit of holster wear from when I had custody. I now have custody and hope to get a lever gun to match, which will have me restore the original parts. With that done and my Security Six to round things out, I will be set for a little while.
 
If the cylinder ring proves to be from operator error it's not a show-stopper. Proper handling will prevent it from getting worse.

If the thing is actually out of time due to internal parts problems, those can usually be found here for sale for a hundred bucks or so.

Either way, the $400 is still a good price IMHO. If you care to go all the way to a reblue, resolving the ring situation first will allow the cylinder to be returned to original appearance. 😁
 
If the cylinder ring proves to be from operator error it's not a show-stopper. Proper handling will prevent it from getting worse.

If the thing is actually out of time due to internal parts problems, those can usually be found here for sale for a hundred bucks or so.

Either way, the $400 is still a good price IMHO. If you care to go all the way to a reblue, resolving the ring situation first will allow the cylinder to be returned to original appearance. 😁
All I care about is that it functions and groups well . Like some of you have said the wear gives it character. Thank you for all of the responses and help.👍
 
It has a little bit more finish wear than it looked like in the picture but I bought it anyway.Got a 50 rd. box of hollow point Norma 357 mag ammo, case and 2 manuals, Don’t guess that’s too bad. Timing is good and everything.
Looks like an S on the end of the cylinder
 

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Ok, I got 2 New Model Blackhawks 357’s and several single sixes and bearcats. A lot of them have light drag marks.

Here’s my blued Blackhawk 357
That type of drag mark is typical for a New Model. The New Model uses a different action which for reasons that I can't explain, was designed by Ruger to be out of time....There's fixes for that, the best of which was discussed here on the Forum a few weeks back. You might do a search if you're interested.

DGW
 
That type of drag mark is typical for a New Model. The New Model uses a different action which for reasons that I can't explain, was designed by Ruger to be out of time....There's fixes for that, the best of which was discussed here on the Forum a few weeks back. You might do a search if you're interested.

DGW
The drag lines don’t really bother me.
DGW, I wasn’t trying to be smart about the answer about the drag lines.
I appreciate the the knowledge and help.👍
 
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To be completely Honest here, Nobody likes those darn drag marks at all...It's just part of shooting and using your gun. Like they say: "It is what it is"... .although every one and and a while I take a black touch up pen to it, and it looks better and makes me feel good! 🙂
 
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You might want to restore those NECK Feather grips. They are worth a few $$$$$$.
Why they are on a 1966 gun I don't have a clue. They were produced for a short time in 1967.

Notice no cylinder ring after 1000s of rounds. Plenty of holster were.
1773187924056.png
 
Did this one come out with different grips?
Didn’t really notice the medallions in the grips being different.
You might want to restore those NECK Feather grips. They are worth a few $$$$$$.
Why they are on a 1966 gun I don't have a clue. They were produced for a short time in 1967.

Notice no cylinder ring after 1000s of rounds. Plenty of holster were.
View attachment 97445
 
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What are the neck feather grips worth.I know they are rough, but I’m just curious.
 

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