Kind of what I was thinking.Heck, that's not bad at all. That's an "experienced" keeper. Buy buy buy![]()
Take $400 with ya ……Gonna try and check it out tomorrow
Like I said, there shouldn't be one on an "Old Model" SA revolver...or a Colt SAA for that matter....In other words, unlike most other revolvers, the cylinder latch on those two does not contact the cylinder until it gets released within the little ramp that guides it into the locking notch of the cylinder....If a drag mark is present anywhere but within that little "ramp", it's either due to the cylinder being turned while the hammer is at rest (operator error) or either the hammer plunger and/or latch is worn/bent/stuck (OM Ruger), or the hammer cam and/or latch (Colt) is worn/damaged. And just so you'll know; Ruger's infamous "safety conversion" that they love to do on these old revolvers is based on some sort of action that I can only describe as "Coltish" in design, and as a result has become quite famous for causing that same type of drag mark which is seen in the photo that you posted....9 times out of 10, it's probably the former, also known as "operator error". Thing is though, it might not be, and OM Blackhawk parts are getting somewhat expensive lately AND harder to find....Hence my recommendation to carefully check the gun's timing before plunking down your money.What actually causes the drag lines? I see them on a lot of revolvers
All I care about is that it functions and groups well . Like some of you have said the wear gives it character. Thank you for all of the responses and help.If the cylinder ring proves to be from operator error it's not a show-stopper. Proper handling will prevent it from getting worse.
If the thing is actually out of time due to internal parts problems, those can usually be found here for sale for a hundred bucks or so.
Either way, the $400 is still a good price IMHO. If you care to go all the way to a reblue, resolving the ring situation first will allow the cylinder to be returned to original appearance.![]()
That type of drag mark is typical for a New Model. The New Model uses a different action which for reasons that I can't explain, was designed by Ruger to be out of time....There's fixes for that, the best of which was discussed here on the Forum a few weeks back. You might do a search if you're interested.Ok, I got 2 New Model Blackhawks 357’s and several single sixes and bearcats. A lot of them have light drag marks.
Here’s my blued Blackhawk 357
The drag lines don’t really bother me.That type of drag mark is typical for a New Model. The New Model uses a different action which for reasons that I can't explain, was designed by Ruger to be out of time....There's fixes for that, the best of which was discussed here on the Forum a few weeks back. You might do a search if you're interested.
DGW
No harm, no foul.....I was just answering the question(s) that you asked, that's all.The drag lines don’t really bother me.
DGW, I wasn’t trying to be smart about the answer about the drag lines.
I appreciate the the knowledge and help.![]()
ThanksNo harm, no foul.....I was just answering the question(s) that you asked, that's all.
DGW
You might want to restore those NECK Feather grips. They are worth a few $$$$$$.
Why they are on a 1966 gun I don't have a clue. They were produced for a short time in 1967.
Notice no cylinder ring after 1000s of rounds. Plenty of holster were.
View attachment 97445
What are the neck feather grips worth.I know they are rough, but I’m just curious.
Yeah , I’m going to. Just curious what they was worth?Aw, they go with the gun. Leave 'em be.