Blackhawk Locked-up

I have a problem with my Ruger 357 Blackhawk. I was just out shooting and the cylinder locked-up and wouldn't move. I can't pull the hammer back. I tried to remove the cylinder but it's stuck. I could use some help with this problem.

New model or old model? If it's a new model, shake it a bit to make sure that the transfer bar isn't caught on anything.
Can you pull the base pin all the way forward, or it is stuck as well?

First things first...is it still loaded?

The Preacher

NM ? Push the cylinder pin ALL the way till it locks in place.

And so it goes..

The Preacher said:

First things first...is it still loaded?

The Preacher

Click to expand...

If shooting light loads it might be that a primer has been pushed out and is binding the cylinder up. Remove the base pin and push the cylinder out.

All of the above are possible and avoidable with proper handling in a mechanically correct gun.
Another thing to check is the loading gate spring. It can jump off of its proper place at the loading gate cam and lock the cylinder up.

I was given reloads from a friend and on one of the loads he forgot to put powder in the case. I took a wooden dowel and tapped it in the barrel and was able to remove the cylinder. No more of my friends reloads for me. Thanks for all the help

You should count it a blessing that it just locked it up, and you didn't end up with a bullet stuck in the barrel unknowingly, and try to shoot it more. Glad you're safe.

I'm with you on this, though. I absolutely don't trust reloads from other people.

That was precisely my thinking, although I've heard said that the BH .357 is the strongest current commerical production .357, and I think that somewhere in the internet space there's a tale of a Ruger company strength test of a GP-100 with a bolt threaded into the barrel...

I wouldn't want to be holding it though.

ETA: Couldn't find GP-100 story, but here's a nice picture of a BH: http://s7.photobucket.com/user/dalesimpson/media/rugerblackhawk-tm.jpg.html

I bought a used OM Super Blackhawk some years back from a friend. It came with reloading dies, cases and about 100 reloads. They seemed very powerful when I fired them, but having never fired a .44 Magnum before I had no real point of reference. On about the second cylinder, the revolver locked up. There was a strange sound from the gun, not your normal report. there was a bullet lodged between the cylinder and the barrel. I stopped shooting those rounds and went to the store and got a bullet puller....

Chief said:

I bought a used OM Super Blackhawk some years back from a friend. It came with reloading dies, cases and about 100 reloads. They seemed very powerful when I fired them, but having never fired a .44 Magnum before I had no real point of reference. On about the second cylinder, the revolver locked up. There was a strange sound from the gun, not your normal report. there was a bullet lodged between the cylinder and the barrel. I stopped shooting those rounds and went to the store and got a bullet puller....

Click to expand...

A bullet stuck between the cylinder and the barrel is a real problem. You have to drive the bullet back into the case or cut the bullet in half.

Jimbo357mag said:

Chief said:

I bought a used OM Super Blackhawk some years back from a friend. It came with reloading dies, cases and about 100 reloads. They seemed very powerful when I fired them, but having never fired a .44 Magnum before I had no real point of reference. On about the second cylinder, the revolver locked up. There was a strange sound from the gun, not your normal report. there was a bullet lodged between the cylinder and the barrel. I stopped shooting those rounds and went to the store and got a bullet puller....

Click to expand...

A bullet stuck between the cylinder and the barrel is a real problem. You have to drive the bullet back into the case or cut the bullet in half.

Click to expand...

How is this even possible?

...a very tiny saw, like a feeler gauge. You could probably melt the lead with some heat. ...not that I have ever done that but I did hammer a bullet back into the case enough to get a stuck cylinder out.

Jimbo357mag said:

...a very tiny saw, like a feeler gauge. You could probably melt the lead with some heat. ...not that I have ever done that but I did hammer a bullet back into the case enough to get a stuck cylinder out.

Click to expand...

I could see melting a lead bullet as a last-ditch effort, but in my limited experience, if the bullet is caught between the cylinder and forcing cone, it takes very little force to tap it back into the cylinder far enough to remove the cylinder.

Correct. It took very little effort to push the bullet back into the cylinder/case, remove the cylinder and all was well. The most hazardous part was the fact that the gun still had 3 live rounds left in it. As you may have guessed the round in question had no powder. The primer was enough to push the bullet until it met the forcing cone. They were unknown brand 240 gr JHP with norma cases. I took down all of the rest of the rounds but did not fine any more without powder. There was some sort of flake (probably 2400) powder in them. Tossed it all and reloaded the cases with my own powder (2400) and reused the bullets. The old Super worked perfect after that. Sadly I traded that gun for a shiny, new 8 3/8 nickle S&W model 57. It's a nice gun and I love it but wish I had that Super back.

new guy.
After buying .44 ammo @ $1.00 per round, I thought I'd try reloading. Started with a Lee Loader. Used the dipper that came with the kit.

After reading, and watching youtube videos about squib loads and explosions, I decided to weigh every charge on a digital grain scale.
Before I go to the range, I weigh every cartridge to make sure I at least have powder, and not a double charge.

I now load on a Lee single stage.
Discovered that cast bullets vary in weight. I'm mostly shooting 240 grain Elmer style swc.
Cases vary in weight too, Starline seems 10 grains heavier.

I've been shooting now for about 1 year. Started with a Glock 21 but decided that semi-autos burn ammo too fast. Looked into revolvers and bought a SAA Heritage.
Somehow discovered .44 magnum, now own a SBH, and a SRH.
I haven't got the hang of shooting double action so I shoot both SA. This old timey style slows down the action, not like burning through a clip with the Glock.

If I had to pick one, it would be tough. The SRH is easier to load, and has fewer itty bitty screws, etc. While I love the Super Redhawk, I absolutely love the Super Blackhawk. Makes me feel like Wyatt Earp

I'm glad that worked out for you, my first thought was a squib or a backed out primer into the firing pin hole... but like others have said, glad that you are safe.

First off, an 8 year old post & the problem got fixed. But still good advice.

J. Yuma,, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!!!!!

I see you are from NC. Anywhere near me in WNC? If you need more help in reloading or shooting or trying stuff, you are welcomed to visit! And each fall, we have a "Ruger Forum East Coast Gathering" here at my place! All are welcome to come & enjoy shooting, fellowship, and a bit of food!

thanks for the welcome!
I'm in the triangle, and a Duke football fan!
Been to Lake Lure a couple of times.

Had my SBH lock up yesterday at the range. I just got it back from Ruger yesterday. Somehow a grip frame screw broke so that the stub was below the frame surface. I tried to remove it with a reverse twist drill bit, but it was like operating on a grandchild.

Ruger returned it yesterday all fixed up. Shot 12 rounds of semi-hot home made, it seemed fine.
Started to load a third and the cylinder stopped turning after 3-4 bullets. I removed the cylinder several times, then after loading and shooting three at a time, I gave up.

The base pin latch had always been a pita (bought the gun used last August). Now it was stuck in the open position, wouldn't slide at all.
I brought it out the the range armorer, (he looked younger than the SBH) and he told me that old timey pistols were out of his lane.

Did a little searching and found this forum. I discovered what that little itsy-bitsy sprung pin on the end of the base pin was for.
I saw how the safety transfer bar would hang up on the firing pin, preventing the hammer cock and cylinder rotation, unless the base pin was locked in.

Head space might be an issue, but it's not a protruding primer (very careful about seating primers) All the parts are the same, so it would be strange to suddenly lose head spacing.

The hang up seems to have occurred when loading the fourth round, which suggested a cylinder misalignment.

Could be case length, I don't trim the case length, but it seemed like it was something about the base pin.

Took it home, ground up an old screwdriver to make it into a forked screwdriver, removed the ejector, base pin, base pin latch, cleaned everything up, put it together and now it seems to load.

When I had everything apart, I realized that the base pin has a ground out half moon on the stop collar. This allows the base pin to slide along the barrel, and keeps the base pin notch lined up to engage the base pin latch. If the base pin was cocked a bit, it would hang up on the barrel and not slide.

I'm writing all this detail for anyone like me who might be having a similar issue.

Not sure if it's solved, but I have a better understanding of how the gun works.

I love the gun, I don't like all the jewelry sized screws, pins, and latches.

mrjohns said:

I was given reloads from a friend and on one of the loads he forgot to put powder in the case. I took a wooden dowel and tapped it in the barrel and was able to remove the cylinder. No more of my friends reloads for me. Thanks for all the help

Click to expand...

Only shoot your reloads!
I do not trust all factory ammo either.
A .357 S&W revolver blew up in my hand using .38 special factory ammo!

good news, returned to the range today with the SBH.
Shot about 66 rounds (6 x 11) no issues.
Hopefully it was the base pin and/or latch.

J.Yuma,, you aren't terribly far away.

Anytime you plan another trip to my area,, if you give me notice maybe we can get together. My range is just outside the city limits of LL.

Kudos on taking the time to learn more about your SBH. Proper alignment & positions of things are necessary. And BTW; the screws & such are NOT the same size as jewelers parts. But a proper set of screwdrivers is a necessity if you plan on tinkering & not marring stuff up.
Oh, and if want a Ruger SA that's even easier to tinker on,, get an Old Model.

But I'm glad to hear you got your gun up & running again!

harley08 said:

Only shoot your reloads!
I do not trust all factory ammo either.
A .357 S&W revolver blew up in my hand using .38 special factory ammo!

Click to expand...

That's FUNNY, but it's not at the same time. The worst issue I ever had with factory .45's was a few in one box had dud primers.

contender said:

J.Yuma,, you aren't terribly far away.

Anytime you plan another trip to my area,, if you give me notice maybe we can get together. My range is just outside the city limits of LL.

Kudos on taking the time to learn more about your SBH. Proper alignment & positions of things are necessary. And BTW; the screws & such are NOT the same size as jewelers parts.

Click to expand...

6-48 screws may not fit in a watch, but for a 70 year old (me) they are daunting.
I did grind up a "hollow ground" screwdriver. I guess I gotta get some real ones.
Thanks for the invite!

contender said:

First off, an 8 year old post & the problem got fixed. But still good advice.

J. Yuma,, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!!!!!

I see you are from NC. Anywhere near me in WNC? If you need more help in reloading or shooting or trying stuff, you are welcomed to visit!

Click to expand...

I noticed my "bearcat" connotation.
Is that a "new guy" classification?
And once again thanks for the welcome.

I do have a reloading question.
I have tried several powders, one of which, H110, only has a single grain between "starter load" and "blow yourself up."
I have a grain scale, and wonder about getting a powder trickler.
How well do tricklers work?
do a couple of tenths of grain make a discernible difference? Say, a 23 grain charge vs. a 23.1 grain charge?

thanks

At only 65 I can still relate to the 6-48 screws for seemingly being small. I did chuckle on that one. But the ejector rod housing screw is bigger than that,, and while the thread pitch of the base pin latch may be small, the 2 parts are bigger than a regular screw. But hey,, it's all good!

The handle of "Bearcat" is a name form to kinda go with your post count. As folks get more posts,, and surpass certain milestones of post numbers,, they can get a new "handle" under their name. Mine,, "ruger guru" was an honorary one given to me by our dear departed former owner "Flatgate!" He bestowed that to some of us who have been around a while as well as being hard core Ruger folks.

Reloading.

H110 can be an excellent powder,, but it does have a narrow window of grainage use. And it can QUICKLY get out of pressure ranges if improperly used. Both low or high. Using H110 can be very sensitive to minor deviations in weight if you try & down load or increase things.
My first recommendation would be to get a few different powders,, that are a bit more "forgiving" or in other words,, have a broader range of loads. If you study your different manuals,, (you do have more than one,, right???) you will find other powders offer a wider range of available loads. If you are loading for a 44 mag,, a really good one is IMR 4227. Others include 2400, HS-6 for mid to upper end loads. For a milder load yet quite good is Unique.

Powder tricklers allow for the very precise final amount of powder to be added to a single case. You set your powder thrower a little light,, then while the powder is in the scale pan, you can use a trickler to add a grain or so at a time, manually to that pan to reach a more precise charge. Generally speaking, a trickler is used more for larger grained powders most often used in rifle calibers. Handgun stuff,, is normally ok with a powder thrower, as long as you are within the parameters of the manuals.

How about this?
Instant karma. I have an older but perfectly good powder trickler. When you get to where you can send PM's & receive them, (I think it's after you have 10 posts here,) send me a PM with your name & address, and I'll send it to you.

well,
I started with Ramshot enforcer. It was...interesting. Then, I mistakenly bought H110, which is very "interesting."
The 110 almost gone, maybe another 20 rounds worth.

I also have Win 244, kinda "interesting," and HP38, kinda wet fart, but 8 grains is ok, and both guns seem to like it.
I shoot mostly Missouri Bullet hi-tek, also Berry's. Both guns like the hi-tek.

I'm gonna keep playing with the 244.
All my "recipes" have been from
the Lee book,
or
Hogdon online:
https://shootersreference.com/reloadingdata/44-remington-magnum/or
shooter's reference online:
https://shootersreference.com/reloadingdata/44-remington-magnum/
I only reload.44 magnum, so I think i'm ok with recipes.
I can't seem to find 2400.

the trickler sounds good.

Thanks again!

Ok,, I see what you are doing.

First off,, while on-line data is detailed, and covers a lot,, I always prefer to have a printed book of recipes from at least 3 sources. On-line stuff can be altered, but a published book can't. Think "liability" here. Books are cheap. Lives & injuries aren't.

Since you are shooting coated & plated bullets,, I'd like to recommend you get a copy of a Lyman Reloading manual. Using these types of bullets,, you should be using the cast bullet data in general. Even if using plated bullets. Jacketed bullets can be pushed harder & faster if that's your goal. The Hi-Tek coated bullets are pretty good from all I've heard. I've used Berry's & Xtreme plated bullets a fair amount as well. Plated bullets, if driven too fast can strip off the plating.
Personally, I shoot mostly cast & powder coated myself as well. And I shoot for accuracy first, all while staying within the safe guidelines. I cast & PC all my own bullets. I do use jacketed bullets in many of the rifle calibers,, just because I've never gotten around to trying to cast any specifically for rifle stuff.

A good all around powder for cast & coated bullets and especially in the mid-range is Unique. And yes,, 2400 can be harder to find. Try Longshot if you can find some. It's close to 2400.
Just stay away from Lil'gun" in revolvers. It's being found to cause forcing cone erosion pretty quickly in revolvers. Burns pretty hot.

And just let me know when you want the trickler.

I started shooting about a year ago, first with my father-in-law's .22 rifle, and a Glock 21. The rifle was accurate but not fun. The Glock was fun but not accurate.

I went from the Glock to a Heritage.22, then a Pieta .45 convertible 1873. These were good at most about 45 feet of distance. I decided that single action was the most fun. Cocking the hammer, click, boom, was right up my alley. I did a lot of research and it seemed that the durability of Ruger Super models would be an investment as well as fun.

I finally bought a used Super Blackhawk and decided that .44 magnum at 75 feet (the indoor range limit) would be the most interesting. When I realized that you could shoot a Redhawk single action, I figured that it would be good to have some variety. I actually bought the Redhawk so I wouldn't wear out the Blackhawk. I haven't shot anything but .44 since February, and alternate these two every session.
I'm retired, so I shoot once a week. I was dismayed when that Blackhawk 6-48 screw broke, but it forced me to take it apart. Ruger removed the broken screw, no charge!

My son-in-law suggested I look into reloading. I guess I missed the days of cheap and available components, primers seem to be the lynch pin, but I figure I'm loading @ $.45 per round.
I'm most interested in accuracy myself, and the hi-tek cast bullets with a middle of the road load seems to give the most accuracy in both guns.

I promised myself to be safe first. Second, simple, no red dots or scopes. Third, fun.

As soon as I can DM, I'll take you up on the trickler.

You made me (and I'm sure others,) chuckle at the comment about buying a Redhawk so as to not wear out the Super Blackhawk!
There are PLENTY of Old Model .44 mag Blackhawks from 1956 & since that haven't been worn out in all those decades of use.
And trust me,, unless you are the type to load a LOT of top end loads & shoot a LOT of them,, you won't wear out a Ruger.

The Glock, the Heritage & the Pietta can't claim the same strength rating as the Rugers.

Reloading,, your numbers seem a bit high. If you already have the cases,, primers at the elevated price of .10 cents each, bullets at around .10 cents each, and powder at .10 cents per charge,, (all these are general rounded numbers,) makes me wonder where you get .45 cents per round.
If you shop around a bit,, primers are in the $75 range for a brick, (7-1/2 cents each) powder is running $35-$40 per pound,, at 7000 grns a pound,, even H110 can load around 300 rounds approximately, which is about another 7-1/2 cents per charge. Bullets,, are usually less than .10 cents each for plated or coated ones.
Now,, if you are buying cases,, then I can see the expense. But once you get the cases,, they can last a LONG time. I have cases I've loaded a lot over the decades that I acquired in the 1970's & 1980's.

Of course,, that's still a savings over buying factory ammo.

And you have discovered what many of us serious handloaders & shooters already have learned. Quite often, the most accurate load is a mid-range load in general. Your Hi-Tek coated bullets are proving to be good. And if you build a mid-range load, using a powder that doesn't have as narrow of a range as H110,, you can use less powder & that translates into a bit more savings.

I'm an instructor,, and when I teach, I stress the least expensive but most important thing a person can have is knowledge. A couple of GOOD reloading manuals are inexpensive tools to assist in the process. Lyman, Hornady are 2 of the really good ones. Hodgdon's magazine type isn't nearly as detailed but has good load data. I also buy Nosler, Speer, manuals as well. I cross reference data,, AND,,, study the "test firearm" they used to get their data. Some companies use a "Universal Receiver" while others use actual firearms. This can make a difference in results. And the manuals will have a short few paragraphs of info on that caliber,, OFTEN listing what they found to be the most accurate or best overall. Valuable knowledge.

Since you are loading for .44 mag,, and using Hi-Tek bullets,, I'd do a serious search for Unique powder. It's well over a century old powder,,, with a very good & proven track record. And you can easily load mid-range loads while using a lot less powder,, which stretches your $$$ invested in shooting.

I really liked your comment; "I promised myself to be safe first. Second, simple, no red dots or scopes. Third, fun."

Safety should ALWAYS be first. Using H110 is a powder which has a narrower margin of safety in adjusting the loads. It's a good powder,, but I reserve it for heavy loads using jacketed bullets.
You put "fun" as third. I think fun should be the second thing. Shooting should be for fun first,, and if using a firearm as a tool, using the tool for fun can make using it as a tool easier.
You mentioned "Simple" meaning keeping the equipment as basic as possible by the way you stated it. But you have also stated you are retired,, and as such,, I'm assuming you are a bit over 40-50. As we age,, our eyes age & seeing sights isn't as easy as it once was. MANY of us "older types," (myself included,) have been frustrated at the diminished abilities our aging eyes have caused. Often an optical assistance item,, can help reduce frustration and return the fun factor.
You may want to keep that in the back of your mind.

But it's fun for me to see a new member here,, who is approaching things the way you are. Kudos!