Recent content by JB696

I'd be more worried about the barrel being screwed on crooked or being able to shove a credit card between the cylinder and the forcing cone. I've seen some real bad ones lately. Needing a little work on the sight blade would make it a keeper for me. :)

I have an SP101 .38 Special purchased new in 1990. It has been rebuilt three times, replacing all of the internal parts except the hammer and the trigger. It's been re-sprung and re-crowned a few times. I installed a new barrel in 2005 because the rifling was so worn that it wouldn't spin...

Sorry. Since I sold my S&W collection off a few years ago I use the Ruger nomenclature for all my parts. :)

One thing I noticed. The lower gun in the picture has an ugly hole right above the crane release button. The other one doesn't. Just looking at the two for a minute, the upper one seems to be better proportioned and overall, just more attractive. I think I'd rather have the top one. :wink:

Call him up? That would be too easy. I'm running a set of Pau Ferro Hogue wood grips on my target SP101. They have been hand sanded so that the finger grooves fit my hand just the way I like. They are a little bit thinner on the sides and the finger grooves have been shifted higher up...

Sounds like it is just a matter of doing the proper amount of practice, which I should be doing anyway. I suppose if I had to, I could relieve that part of the grip slightly and refinish it with some lacquer. I think I will go with the rosewood. Thanks.

This is a quickie. Yes I did a search. Didn't come up with much. Do your speed loaders work with the Badger Boot Grips?? It probably doesn't really matter too much, as the chance that one of us will need to reload in a real world shooting situation is very slim. I've only had to do it...

Yes, a spring kit will help. Everyone here probably has their preferred spring combination. The usual process is to go lighter on the springs while shooting an assortment of ammo/primers until there is a misfire from a light strike. Then go a step or two heavier on the springs to ensure...

No problem. It's a pawl spring too. It really gets interesting when you get over to that other forum. The S-W guys call the pawl a "hand". :roll:

The trigger plunger spring is a small one that shoves the plunger towards the step on the cylinder latch. It doesn't come as part of a reduced tension spring kit. The one in the kit you're thinking of replaces Ruger #KT03800 which is the trigger guard latch spring, which also serves as a...

We may be on to something here. When holding the gun in the firing position, the tip of the cylinder latch should have the bevel on the left hand side. All of my SP101's have the beveled edge on the left. Some of the new SP101 latches that came from Ruger have a slight bevel already...

With the cylinder open, push down on the cylinder latch with your finger and see how much resistance there is. It's hard to explain exactly how firm it should feel. But if the cylinder latch spring is weak, has a couple of broken coils, or is gummed up with old grease this could be the...

You will need to disassemble the extractor to install the shims. The extractor retainer screw is a left hand thread with a dab of loctite on it. It takes a split tip hollow shank screw driver to remove it. If you are handy you can make a special screw driver yourself by cutting a slot in...

Nothing is worn. It's lead buildup on the forcing cone. I've fired literally thousands of 125 grain lead bullets through one of my SP101's. There is no erosion or damage of any kind to the forcing cone or top strap. When shooting lead bullets it is a good idea to clean off any lead buildup...

I laugh whenever I read one of these threads. The only reason to take apart a Mark series pistol is to replace a broken part. Solvent and the usual assortment of brushes is all that is required to do a proper cleaning. As I have posted many times before, I purchased a Mark I from an old...