The Packhorse

[Hondo44]

You have a very cute 'helper'. Daughter or granddaughter?

The brass accents are a nice touch! Sometimes making adaptations offer great opportunities to be creative!

 

[medicdave]

That barrel band and adjustable sight looks pretty nifty, have you shot it with that front sight yet. Seems like it would be awfully tall.

 

[Sharps40]

Grandaughter.

Yes, brass is better than paint! But this gun is chunky front and rear with the Bisley grip and ramp, it needed a bit of visual interest somewhere. And, I think the brass will help when the gun it browned and blackened.


Low setting is .6" from barrel. Factory sight on the longer barrel is .5" (using the original low rear leaf). I have to run some measurements. But, between the hunter high rear leaf or custom rear leaf plus the front elevation and the fact front can be 'filed', shouldn't be a problem getting it zeroed.

 

[medicdave]

Just curious. While putting a taller front sight on a chopped down single ten I had to take a good bit back off the sight, go to a .410 vs .315 blade on the bowen rear and raise the sight a bit. Seems no matter how I work the math the sights have to be shot in to adjustment. Be careful filing down that front sight. I tried filing an old redfield sourdough sight before and the brass inlay fell out lol.

 

[Sharps40]

I'll run the midpoint measurments and probably get a taller rear blade and then be heading to the range. Gotta finish undercutting the ejector rod housing first. I want it rock solid before firing the first rounds.

My experience has been that shorter barrels on the blackhawks usually require taller front sights to preserve the full range of motion in the rear sight. i.e. the original front sights will shoot high.

 

[Sharps40]

Front sight: .974 low setting +.060 at high setting over bore centerline.

Rear sight: .806 low setting to approximately .936 (short old model sight screw and low rear blade) at high setting over bore centerline.

Therefore, midpoint of the rear sight with the short OM screw and low OM leaf is .871 above bore centerline.

Plenty good. Front sight is 1/10 higher than the rear at its midpoint.

Change to the longer Hunter model rear sight screw is indicated for a greater range of adjustment (i.e. taller rear sight). As needed, the hunter rear leaf is another .040 taller yet.

I predict that even if a kiss of metal of the top of the front sight is required, 240g full house loads are going to be relatively inexpensive and quick to zero at about any practical range from Get Off Me to 50 yards.

 

[Sharps40]

I finally got the ERH fitted to suit me. If anybody knows where I stashed my layout blue, please PM me. In any event, I was able to do the spotting in with pipe dope. Fit and try about 500 times.

The lines look better now up top with the bulk of the high spots gone.

Pretty good on the under side too. I don't think I can get it much closer, been doin about as much correction from over cutting as fitting on this part of the job. But its worked out and looks pretty good.

The lay out on the business end is about right. The barrel band just behind the round over at the muzzle and the ERH right behind the barrel band, but not by much, its almost even.

Sanded out the file marks by hand and then smoothed things up with the jitter bug. Broke all the sharp edges on the front sight, especially up top. It'll all need some work bootstrapping with strips of sand paper yet but 90% and looking fine. And, the brass strips didn't fall out, yet. Last thing was to double check level and put 1.5 threads in the top of the barrel. There is a set screw under the sight. A second set screw is in place at the mid point of the ramp. I decided to make a weaver head screw, countersink the ramp and fit it this way. It'll allow me to easily find level on the final install and by catching 1.5 threads in the top of the barrel, in combination with the front set screw, no solder or epoxy will be required to hold the assembly perfect and forever. My guess is the fit will be tighter after rust browning the barrel anyway. Just in case, I broke the under side of the tail of the ramp. Don't want it scratching its way down the barrel when I drive it back on for the last time. Just gotta shorten up that mid ramp screw and move back to the back. The lanyard mount needs a brass spacer and I think I'm going to scallop the frame and loading gate as well as back cut the loading gate.

Last of the parts are inbound. A hunter rear leaf and a longer rear sight elevation screw. I hope to have this Packhorse ready for the range in its final brown, black and gold glory by the end of July or mid August.

 

[Sharps40]

All my chores at the house are done, lawn mowed, gate fixed, garage swept, car washed and vacuumed, lawn chairs cleaned and fire pit cleaned.....off the air conditioned shop.

First I finish the front sight ramp. Trim the screw, shape its head and fit it so it clocks muzzle to butt.

Time again for scallops on the recoil shield.....first cut with the rat tail file.

Almost full depth.

Straighten and deepen with the round backed file. Run to the full depth made by the rat tail file.

Once back from the drill press, a bit final shaping and straightening with a 1" sanding drum.......

 

[Sharps40]

Another bit of brass hinge to make up a decorative washer for the lanyard stud. Soldered in place and then turned to size.

 

[Sharps40]

Beginning the rust browning process. First bite took quick and turned black. About 2 or 3 hours and we'll see where we're at.

 

[Sharps40]

First clean up with scalding hot tap water and a rough terry shows typical results. Spotting and rusting that's uneven. It'll build with time. I dried it and then scrubbed it lightly with 0000 steel wool to remove some of the red crust on the barrel. It was not rust. Perhaps some gunk in the metal that's coming out with the acids. Then, coated with Laurel Mountain Brown and back in the rust cabinet for another few hours.

 

[Sharps40]

Been rusted 4 times now. Last sit was overnight at 80% humidity and about 80 to 90 degrees F or whatever temp the crock pot on low setting adds to the damp box, plenty warm.

After each rusting session, its scrubbed down with hot tap water and a rough terry cloth. I stopped using the 0000 steel wool after the second rusting as the finish was evening up fine I'm going for a more aggressive (textured) finish.

Probably a couple more sessions today with the rusting and cleaning. Its not looking like much now but once its in the oil and sealed in beeswax it'll look like every fine muzzleloader. I'm anxious to start the rust blackening of the other parts that will attach to the frame and barrel. Ol Rusty looks good in two tone and this here Packhorse should as well.....specially with the brass accents.....

The bore is not provided special protection, no plugs, no laquer, no oil. Simply a dry patch after each scrubbing and not putting Laurel Mountain in it. Its perfect, smooth and bright and will stay that way. The final touch will be one turn of the crowning cutter to remove the brown finish down in the 11 degree target crown. Leaving a silver ring, surrounded by a brown ring.

 

[Sharps40]

After about 6 rustings over a little longer than 24 hours.

It looks ruined. But, it ain't.

A thorough scrubbing with hot tap water and lots of baking soda to smooth the finish and deactivate any remaining browning solution.

After rinsing the browned gun is warmed through and then completely saturated in clean motor oil.

I'll give it about a 30 minute to one hour soak then wipe it down and start coating it with hoppes gun oil tomorrow. I'll oil it daily while polishing and blackening the remaining parts. Before final assembly, I'll wipe it down dry and then after warming again, treat it to a good soaking in my favorite muzzleloader lube, 50/50 beeswax/vasoline.

 

[Sharps40]

A good finish. I'll keep wiping it with oil for several days and finish it out with the beeswax later. For now, some quick pics in natural light to highlight the texture. All the pits and freckling along the top strap are totally hidden. Color will even up and deepen as the oil go's in and the wax soaks in over top of that yet. Overall, it will be a nice satin brown and black when done. I left the ruger blue on the hammer, trigger and pins/screws. A bit of shine to set them off.

 

[roylt]

Looks crazy so far but waiting to see the end.

 

[Sharps40]

These parts polished, (120g to remove most of the freckling and help hid any deeper pitting that doesn't come out) and ready for blackening.

First wet coat of Pilkingtons on and into the damp box for 1 hour to get em started.....meantime, I gotta make up some kind of hanger for some of it.

 

[Sharps40]

Looks crazy so far but waiting to see the end.

Here is Ol Rusty, just finished last month. Its my 50th convertible (OM 9mm cylinder was fitted to the 50th frame....)

 

[Sharps40]

I stopped bluing on the grip and cylinder after the first rust. Pilkingtons, unlike Laurel Mountain Forge, has no degreaser. Evidently I didn't get them clean enough and they streaked and spotted. I'll strip and reblue next week. In the meantime, the smaller parts, ERH, Sight ramp, gate, etc, all are moving right along and should be done and ready for oil and assembly tonight or tomorrow morning. Progress.......another step closer to the range and the hunting fields.

 

[Sharps40]

A project that is an exercise in contradictions. Too many holes in the barrel. Brown and black. Silver and brass. Coarse and smooth. Short and tall. So far, I think its working good.

Blackening the small parts is done. Carded and oiled and all of it, including the browned frame and barrel, warmed to ouch temperature and saturated in 50/50 beeswax/Vaseline.

Grip and cylinder next week and then off to the range for test firing and initial sighting. Perhaps even a velocity check with good Parvi ammunition now the bullet speedometer appears to be functional....finicky but functional.

The little bits rust blackened and oiled.

Left side

Right side

Roman nose

Business end

More of the brown and black, coarse and smooth contrast.

NEGC elevation adjustable front sight and Ruger Hunter rear with tall blade.

Brass Patrige Blade

Shooters eye view including scallops and back cut loading gate.

 

[Sharps40]

Back from Ol Kantuk and cleaned up the cylinder and grip frame one more time....back to bright metal and degreased again with alcohol. The bluing is taking well and streak free this go round. Second boil was this morning and I think I should be ready for final assembly this week some time.