My old (2011) Outback has been a great and reliable car since I bought it new 10 years ago. The other day suddenly several of the idiot lights on the dash started flashing, including the Check Engine light, the parking brake light, the cruise control symbol, the traction control symbol and maybe one or two others, but the car was driving normally and without a problem. My mechanic checked the codes and said they made no sense to him at all. He reset all the codes and the car has been driving without incident since then, and none of the flashing lights have reappeared. Weird and disconcerting. Anyone ever have something like this happen to them? I didn't want to take the car to the Subaru dealer since the moment you drive through their doors the bill is about $500 and goes up from there no matter what.
Weird codes on a Subaru Outback
- Thread starter vito
- Start date
How about making sure the battery ok, make sure all connections tight and there is no corrosion. Sounds like a electric problem to me, but other than that. Take it to a good shop.
I mentioned all that after having similar issues with my H3 hummer. The post connections were tight, but it my case the factory cable ends were junk and would get loose enough to cause temporary dash board light shows. Better aftermarket parts fixed that problem for ever.
A bad ground somewhere may cause that also, but for me that will be a shop to find and fix.
I mentioned all that after having similar issues with my H3 hummer. The post connections were tight, but it my case the factory cable ends were junk and would get loose enough to cause temporary dash board light shows. Better aftermarket parts fixed that problem for ever.
A bad ground somewhere may cause that also, but for me that will be a shop to find and fix.
Igor
Single-Sixer
You don't happen to have Allstate Drivewise car insurance, do you?
The device that is supplied by Allstate and is plugged into the car's diagnostic port
can cause all kinds of issues like you describe.
Call me the voice of experience.
The device that is supplied by Allstate and is plugged into the car's diagnostic port
can cause all kinds of issues like you describe.
Call me the voice of experience.
Captain America
Hunter
vito said:
You'd be surprised how many people think this very thing, spend hundreds(sometimes thousands) at "their mechanic" only to finally bring it to us and get it fixed with a $75(and sometimes free) reconfig or a flash. If you've had a problem with your local dealer call a few others, tell them about your issue, most will talk to you at length without issue.
Colonialgirl
Hawkeye
I had a similar problem with my Kia; Turned out that the Altenator was in a failure mode and wasn't keeping the battery charged; Reving up to over 3000 rpm, battery light would go out but came on during normal driving.
vito said:
I wasn't going to wade into this one, but what the heck.
Most vehicle systems are tied together now. In cost and weight save measures redundancies are removed. Where you used to have a couple different temp sensors that read the same thing but were used for something different. One is shared for across the network. There many examples of this. This means the sensor for xxx is now used for X,Y and Z. If it goes bad, all users will make note. Some will pop a code/light, some won't.
Just because a light is on doesn't mean you will notice the issue. The check engine light is supposed to come on when your car MAY be putting out more emissions than it is supposed to. The car can run just fine, but by law you need to be advised of this possible emission problem.
Just from what you posted I could easily expect to see a wheel speed sensor in your case. That would cause all of your lights named.
1- Check engine light - vehicle speed may be derived from the wheel sensor - can't calculate a multitude of things without vehicle speed.
2- Parking brake light - nope - just brake light. ABS brakes can't function without a wheel speed sensor. The Red brake light often comes along for he ride when ABS is out.
3- Cruise control symbol - again need vehicle speed
4- Traction control - requires wheel speed to operate
5- one or two others - as mentioned above ABS. It usually has it's own light.
So it is very possible you had a wheel speed sensor act up. Bad connection, corrosion, piece of dirt stuck in the toothed wheel it reads. Who knows? The codes would help.
Also, when you get a string of codes. They should be fixed in the order presented. Many secondary codes pop after the initial issue is found. If you fix the later ones first you may just be swapping out good parts for new parts.
My 04 Chevy threw a fit last week(maybe cause I let Son drive it and he scared it). Anyway, he said 'check engine' light came on and then went off after 4-5 miles. Next time I started it 'check engine' light came on and stayed. I disconnected the ground cable, waited a couple minutes, and re-connected but that didn't make the light go away. Drove it to town to have Oreilly guy put a code reader on it and discovered that the passenger side AC wasn't working. Grouch Attack huffed and snorted the whole trip cause she was uncomfortable-you know how that goes.
Still not sure what caused the light to come on but Oreilly guy dismissed and didn't come back. Bought a new control for the AC, took a bunch of stuff out to reach the old one, and there was nothing wrong with it. Gremlins, full moon, skookums, I dunno but my neck and shoulders still ache from the under dash operation.
Any time there's a bunch of electrical wizardry, one should expect strange stuff to happen for no apparent reason.
Still not sure what caused the light to come on but Oreilly guy dismissed and didn't come back. Bought a new control for the AC, took a bunch of stuff out to reach the old one, and there was nothing wrong with it. Gremlins, full moon, skookums, I dunno but my neck and shoulders still ache from the under dash operation.
Any time there's a bunch of electrical wizardry, one should expect strange stuff to happen for no apparent reason.
Paul B
Hunter
About a month back I went shopping with my 98 Explorer. I won't take my new truck to a Walmart parking lot. Loaded the groceries and went to the 99 cent store. They have canned white beans that I like. Stocked up on beans and a few other things then hit the gas station to fill up the tanke. Damned Explorer refused to start. Called AAA and about three hours later they show up Nope, vehicle won't start. Well I took it to the dealer and that was $35 for the tow because of the extra mileage :x and then it took a week for them to even look at it. Roughly a week and $300 later it turns out the Clifford device my late wife was so insistent on fail. That gadget, a royal PITA to begin with is an anti-theft device that takes its own key. The explorer starts up just fine without it.
A few years back we took the Explorer on a road trip to Houston and the engine light came on. Stopped at the Ford dealership in Deming NM and they said don't worry about it. S we did the trip and when I got home took it in to be fixes. A small broken hose, something to do with air or some such, I forget. Wish I could remember as that rig gave the best gas mileage with that air sensor thingy unhooked, as true 20 MPG. Usually 15 to16 highway with a good tailwind. It's stuff like that that makes me wonder? How good would the gas mileage be without all that anti-pollution garbage strapped on?
Paul B.
A few years back we took the Explorer on a road trip to Houston and the engine light came on. Stopped at the Ford dealership in Deming NM and they said don't worry about it. S we did the trip and when I got home took it in to be fixes. A small broken hose, something to do with air or some such, I forget. Wish I could remember as that rig gave the best gas mileage with that air sensor thingy unhooked, as true 20 MPG. Usually 15 to16 highway with a good tailwind. It's stuff like that that makes me wonder? How good would the gas mileage be without all that anti-pollution garbage strapped on?
Paul B.
woodsy
Buckeye
Remember that scene in "Close Encounters of the Third Kind" at the train crossing? Any chance of that?
I've 'fixed' a couple of issues by buying a new battery even though the old battery showed "GOOD" on two independent meters. It was only 3 1/2 years old and came with the car when I bought it new.
p.s. I have no mechanical experience, just something that happened to me... but it worked so that's my story.
J.
p.s. I have no mechanical experience, just something that happened to me... but it worked so that's my story.
J.
I would definitely have the battery and alternator load tested at my local parts store- they usually do it for free. Then get an inexpensive OBDll reader from Amazon and see what codes it's tripped. Scotty Kilmer has suggestions for decent readers on his channel.
As I understand it, Subaru has two basic computer systems: one for the running gear and one for everything else: A/C, sounds, etc.
Good luck!
Jeff
As I understand it, Subaru has two basic computer systems: one for the running gear and one for everything else: A/C, sounds, etc.
Good luck!
Jeff
Needs a new alternator.
My battery tested 'positive' at the local parts store and local mechanic's shop. I bought a new battery and put it in myself.... all better at that point. Musta been a fluke cause I certainly didn't know what I was doing and I certainly wasn't going near our dealership.
I miss distributor points and timing lights....and all things "normal"... :-(
J.
I miss distributor points and timing lights....and all things "normal"... :-(
J.
I don’t get it, over the years, I’ve been burned more often at an independent garage than the dealer. We’ve had our share of car troubles and the car dealer where we bought the car usually has the best solution.
graygun
Hunter
Kevin said:
It's probably not easy to find an independent who is both honest and highly skilled...not just a parts changer.
This guy is really good at fixing and explaining as he goes along.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XInlcrPSvQg
He works on all brands.
As mentioned,check all the grounds you can find or have your mechanic do it. Ground problems can cause any manner of problems,from no crank/run to myriad intermittent conditions.
In my town, the Toyota dealership had a sign (this was more four years ago BTW) that said the labor charge is $118 per hour. I only went there for one of the free "two year free maintenance" oil changes and tire rotation. Got a survey from Toyota asking me if I was going to continue "maintenance" with Toyota after the two year initiation period, and, if not, why not. Needless to say, I said "NO" and told them that I thought $118 per hour was obscene. I don't think they really care 
))). p.s. I had to use an extra LARGE BREAKER BAR to unscrew the plastic oil filter case when I finally started doing the changes myself..... And don't get me started on the b.s. stories that I help my neighbors with when they tell me what their dealerships are recommending for their cars. Oh yeah, when Subaru changed from rubber timing belts to chain timing belts, I happened to be in the local dealership to buy an oil filter for my wife's car (she wants factory parts ))).... So I took the opportunity to ask the (sort angry looking) lady service manager: I heard Subaru has switch from rubber to chain timing belts; is that true? The answer was "NO, you still need to have the timing belts changed every 105,000 miles or ten years". I thanked for her "help" and left..... I don't even go there to buy my lousy filter anymore... . I will admit that I can tell you just as many horror stories about independent mechanics my family members had used....
J.
J.
))). p.s. I had to use an extra LARGE BREAKER BAR to unscrew the plastic oil filter case when I finally started doing the changes myself..... And don't get me started on the b.s. stories that I help my neighbors with when they tell me what their dealerships are recommending for their cars. Oh yeah, when Subaru changed from rubber timing belts to chain timing belts, I happened to be in the local dealership to buy an oil filter for my wife's car (she wants factory parts ))).... So I took the opportunity to ask the (sort angry looking) lady service manager: I heard Subaru has switch from rubber to chain timing belts; is that true? The answer was "NO, you still need to have the timing belts changed every 105,000 miles or ten years". I thanked for her "help" and left..... I don't even go there to buy my lousy filter anymore... . I will admit that I can tell you just as many horror stories about independent mechanics my family members had used....J.
J.
shootinfule
Bearcat
vito -
we had a similar problem with a 2015 subaru forester. Tech couldn't find anything wrong with their magic code readers. The problem was intermittent and just as you described. I went to a subaru forum and discovered it was a fairly common problem. The problem was the OEM brake light switch. Would have never found it using normal trouble shooting techniques. Pretty expensive from subaru. I ordered one from Amazon for $10 and got it the next day. Replaced the switch without the need for tools and never had any more trouble. Months went by and subaru issued a recall, just drive 150 miles to the dealership and leave it for a day. I installed the replacement switch in less than 5 minutes
we had a similar problem with a 2015 subaru forester. Tech couldn't find anything wrong with their magic code readers. The problem was intermittent and just as you described. I went to a subaru forum and discovered it was a fairly common problem. The problem was the OEM brake light switch. Would have never found it using normal trouble shooting techniques. Pretty expensive from subaru. I ordered one from Amazon for $10 and got it the next day. Replaced the switch without the need for tools and never had any more trouble. Months went by and subaru issued a recall, just drive 150 miles to the dealership and leave it for a day. I installed the replacement switch in less than 5 minutes
shootinfule said:
Then either Subaru has a poor self test, the tech didn't know how, or didn't perform it. The actual self test should check the brake light switch. And if it tripped the lights there should have been a memory code - intermittent, or not.
The brake light switch would fall into nearly same scenario as I described earlier using a wheel speed sensor. That signal is used for so many things it will trip most every system.
Rick Courtright
Hawkeye
chm270 said:
Hi,
That was the right answer when the dash on my old Toyota went bright red all over. And it's barely computerized anywhere.
Rick C
graygun
Hunter
The old guy across the street,96 y.o. WWII vet,has a 2002 Cadillac which he seldom drives anymore. He doesn't believe any local mech is competent to work on his car. I and a neighbor helped him get his car to the nearest dealer(and back),95 miles away(his daughter insisted he would not drive it there). The car drove fine and he wanted a few relatively minor things checked...at a rate of $160 per hour. :evil:
The newer stuff is not intuitive anymore;everything goes through something electronic. Car knows nothing about computers/sensors and vice versa.
A competent,honest mechanic is better than most dealer mechs because he has to be. He can get access to all the tools,analyzers and data he needs.
The newer stuff is not intuitive anymore;everything goes through something electronic. Car knows nothing about computers/sensors and vice versa.
A competent,honest mechanic is better than most dealer mechs because he has to be. He can get access to all the tools,analyzers and data he needs.
mr surveyor
SP-101
I had a similar case last year with my 2003 Nissan work truck. After watching those lights stay on for 2-3 minutes for a couple of weeks, it turned into 10-15 minutes of "on". I ended up having to have a buddy give me a jump start, then took it to a mechanic and told him about another friend telling me about a likely alternator problem. The mechanic kinda' reluctantly agreed to install a new alternator. Problem solved. Yep, I agree that it could be a faulty alternator.
jd
jd
RSIno1
Hunter
The per hour rate at dealers is generally split 1/2 between the dealer and the other half to the mechanic. The real rip off comes from the fact they use a Flat Rate book for the repair. If you need to change a sensor the book says remove x, y & z to get to it. Now if you are also changing the sensor right next to it you get charged again for removing x, y & z. The book is also generous in the time allowed. I knew one guy who was a great mechanic and could do the jobs very fast and without removing x & y. He was regularly billing 12-20 hours in an 8 hour day. I knew a guy who could change a clutch in a VW Bug in under 20 minutes.
