vehicle issues

Joined
Dec 25, 2007
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14,244
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missouri
I think my old 98 K3500 is possessed by a demon. Apparently a common occurrence in these older vehicles.
It's always had a "drivability issue" that Chevrolet purposely incorporated in the computer. When still under warranty, I complained that it wouldn't idle down like it should and was told that was part of the design so folks who didn't understand driving a manual transmission wouldn't kill the engine when shifting. Can't be changed/altered--it's part of the computerized "fast idle" control. Twenty two years later it's still the same but I've learned to cuss it and keep driving it since it's of little trade in or private sale value--no one wants a manual 5 speed(everyone's heard abut the run away issues).
Now there's other demonic presence. Random "no start" or difficult starting has plagued it for a year. We finally swapped in new ignition control and cam position sensors that were recommended and it started better but only ran 5 seconds before dying. BUT it would restart immediately and throw a "check engine code" pertaining to fuel delivery. That went on for a couple weeks and I just drove it ignoring the stupid dash light.
Guess what? Yesterday when I cranked it to melt off the 1/4" of ice on the windows, it started, ran smooth, and NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. This morning @11* started fine, ran smooth, and no light. I'm not looking a gift horse in the mouth and just hoping it's not setting me up for the grand finale of total failure along some snowy deserted road.
 
My "xperts" say it is an issue with some(2. one on each bank) damn expensive sensors(maybe) and "sometimes" the fuel .......I have found on my 03 Tahoe that disconnecting both the battery cables will reset "something" in the computer.............I carry a proper ratchet head boxend wrench just for that damn disconnect .........."she " is at 235 K so I put up with it.......the latest for me is the failure of all dash gauges intermittantly............but not making payments on any "new" 8)
 
Sounds like a problem I had with one of mine a few years back. Would start fine one time and not the next or run for a little while and sputter to a halt. Found it to the the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) was faulty.
 
"Found it to the the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) was faulty."
That's the expensive one that has to be "flashed" after installation??????? I've been told that will fix the throttle problem also but haven't been willing to spend 20% of the street value of the pickup to do it.
 
"unplug, reset. sounds like my washer. lol."
Yeah, it seems everything has some sort of quirk, foible, or bugger once digital wizardry is involved. I always thought that electronic stuff either worked or it doesn't but I'm finding out that circuit boards and computers can "get a bee in their bonnet" too.
I spent 15 minutes fiddling with my one cup coffee maker this morning. For some unknown reason it put 1/3 of the water through the pod into the cup and stopped with the "GO" button light flashing. Never happened before so I unplugged it for safety, waited 5 minutes, and dumped the remaining water. Shook it but nothing seemed loose. Cleaned the basket and all the niches I could reach and ran 1/2 cup of water through it--no problem. After an hour of chores outside, I came back in and made a cup w/o any issues. Guess it just wanted some personal attention.
 
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I'll preface this with I know 0% about GM's, but on Ford's the ECU/PCM is RARELY the issue. (barring damage/water) If it is a software issue the dealer should be able to reflash the PCM you have. (the idle thing sounds like it is calibrated in - no fix)

Your symptoms sound like a coolant temperature sensor stuck cold. Warm outside it doesn't stat well, cold it does. If that is it, in effect the coolant sensor putting the choke on when it's warm out.
 
I'm still trying to wrap my head around "kill the engine when shifting"... wow, now I have heard it all! Never heard of a runaway w/ a stick shift either. After spending my life as a heavy equipment operator I still get bumfuzzled by the excuses the makers come up w/ for poor design! Still reach for look for gearshifts & clutches.
 
Get a code reader and learn what is causing that check engine light. Could be something easy as a new gas cap to lots of money. When my 02 trailblazer with over 200,000 miles on it and around 16 years old that was the fix. Code said fuel supply or something like that. I started with the cheapest fix and it worked. Shop charges 90 bucks to use a reader, I think HF sold my code reader for 40.
Just got a check engine on my H3, it has 120,000 miles at 13 years old. Code reader said thermostat or thermostat sensor. I replaced thermostat 1st. for about 100 bucks. It fixed that problem also.
 
The "fast idle" thing has been well known to GM manual transmission owners since the late 90's. I personally talked to 1/2 dozen owners who bought 3/4 or 1 ton 5 speed pickups in the 97-98 time frame and all had the same problems. Mine will run 20-25 mph on level in 4th gear w/o touching the gas pedal. Often hits 2000rpm in lower gears w/o any gas pedal movement. Will usually idle down if the brake pedal is tapped just enough to activate the brake lights.
According to Son, there's enough comments about this subject on the various ag forums that a proper fix would sell like hotcakes in Alaska.
 
Mobuck said:
"Found it to the the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) was faulty."
That's the expensive one that has to be "flashed" after installation??????? I've been told that will fix the throttle problem also but haven't been willing to spend 20% of the street value of the pickup to do it.


Bought a computer for my 2000 Dakota when the #1 injector driver crapped out from these people pretty cheap.


https://www.fs1inc.com/

Not a problem since. Just plug n play. They even emailed an apology for the delay because the one they had ready to ship failed the final testing.
 
In the 80s a friend was an editor at Motor Trend. He attended a GM round table where they talked about cars being on the road for only 7 years. First owner 3-4 years and used owner for the rest was their goal. They said they were tired of being sued for an accident caused when the wheel fell off a 1950s Chevrolet. Their method was to be a drop dead date in the electronics that when reached would cost more than just buying another car.
 
↑ Yup, it's called planned obsolescence.

noun
a policy of producing consumer goods that rapidly become obsolete and so require replacing, achieved by frequent changes in design, termination of the supply of spare parts, and the use of nondurable materials.
 
I’m trying to keep my truck running forever. 94 Dodge with 5.9 Cummins. Only 180,000 on it, but I’m chasing rot problems. I’ll be sad to see it go.

Good luck with yours. New trucks are so expensive and don’t last.
 
De-energize then re-energize. The master reset. I’ve used it for decades on control equipment. Yea, sometimes you might have to do a bit of programming or if you’re lucky reload the parameters from a backup but that’s often easier and quicker than finding that on little thing that’s holding up the works.
 
Well, that was $125 wasted. Today was the first day it was both cold and damp and the old pickup wouldn't start. Started great at 8* but not today at 35* and foggy damp. IN ADDITION, I discovered that there's a coolant leak which is probably coming from the water pump. It's not goingto take much more of this before the old heifer shows up on c-list.
 
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